Reloader98

I still have a plastic grip with silicon carbide but I’ll shave down the barrel a little and see if that makes a difference.

So I sprayed some dry lube into the inside of the holster’s mechanism. I did notice my trigger guard screw isn’t “loose” as in the individual screws themselves, but the whole barrel screw assembly is moving in and out slightly when pushed side to side. I tried to tighten them but they won’t seem to tighter anymore without potentially stripping them. Should I shave down the barrel of the barrel screws ?

Silicone lube like grease ? Or something like graphite powder? Because I have some grease I could use

So this one does have the removable block.

Alright, so I shoot an 2011 open gun, and I have the DAA Alpha x holster. I’ve had the holster for about 2 years and it’s always been easy to reholster the gun into the block of the holster. Basically it would normally “drop in” freely without applying any pressure. (For those wondering it’s a frankengun of an STI DVC frame and a defions arms anarchy slide in 9 major) Whats happening is when I go to put the trigger guard into the holster, I have to actually press down with some force to get the gun to snap into place and I’ve noticed I have to finagle the trigger guard into the block, basically angling it perfectly until I force it down into the block. Sometime the gun won’t even fully lock unless I move it back and forth a little while pressing down onto the gun. For context I usually would have no resistance and the weight of the gun would just get it locked in place plus I normally just have to get the trigger guard into the angled portion of the block and that would guide it into place, but no it had to be perfectly angled and pressed down to lock. So, has anyone else experienced this? If so how do I fix it and should I be worried? The holster is not dirty and doesn’t get wet when it rains (thanks to a gun cover for the rain). Thanks gents !

So I’ve found that using my micro Dremel ( it’s a stand alone unit smaller than the engraving unit), you can get these small brass end brushes, NOT THE STEEL Brush, but the brass. Not only does this remove all the carbon and the lead but it does it quickly and cheaply without the use of nasty chemicals like “the dip” that can destroy your barrel and your finish. I also personally made a a couple scraping tools out of a solid bronze rod that also removes some of the chunks nicely. I got about 10 end brushes on Amazon for $9 and a side note, you can also get the Real Avid cleaning brush’s that are specifically made to be cleaning small spaces like railways and comps, they help remove the build up on the from of the barrel crown without messing it up. it’s also good to just generally clean the comp more often before large amounts of build up form in the comp. This is especially true if your shooting lead bullets.

So all though I haven’t thought the frame rails were bad at all as the whole slide and fit is tight, what dimensions should I be looking for that is too small ? Does anyone have a minimum dimension for 2011 frame rails so I can measure my rails and see if they are over worn? We can end this potential problem with some quick measurements from a caliper if anyone could give me said dimensions.

Alright guys. I appreciate all of your insight, with that in mind, I’m just going to get a new slide built and probably keep the gun.

Here is the link to a whole bunch of new photos and the old ones. also thanks to all that have contributed. It’s much appreciated. And just to reiterate. Trying to get some info, even from others experiences in doing similar things that are not my exact situation. I ideally want to get a new top end and get somewhat close to paying for s new open gun after selling this, like 3-3.5k maybe more maybe less, just getting an idea on what I can expect as this is obviously s very niche product. https://photos.app.goo.gl/DJTopqQM9gVmThoF8

And to follow the original reason for this posting. I’m trying to gauge how much I can expect for a a gun like this, if it had a brand new top end. Because I do want to sell it to fund the new open gun eventually. So if I got a new top end that was about 1300-1400, how much could I expect for this thing? I’ll ad more pics.

Yeah the picture doesn’t do it justice, but the crack actually goes through about half of the metal in the slide itself. It can be seen passing through the material if you look at the slide from a top view (not pictured) when the slide it off. It’s definitely a crack. and for konkapot I wish I had the fund for that. That’s why I’m going through getting this gun fixed as I would HAVE to sell this one to afford a new open gun. I just graduated college so I don’t have the funds for that unfortunately.

alright gents, sorry I was busy today but here is the link to some photos of the gun. One is up close to the crack. All the others are just to get a general idea of its condition. I wanted to note the left side of the comp has some scratches from when I forgot to take my pocket knife off at a match and it ate through my shorts and a little of my comp lol. Benos won’t let me add photos directly for some reason so here is a link. https://photos.app.goo.gl/scu4Bit1ia7toNdQ9

Following explosiveo, just based on the aspect of metallurgy, heat treating, and generally finishing gun after all that ( I’m no expert), and All though it may be a “ band aid” I don’t think it’s a realistic option for long term usage of any firearm. I defiantly want to get a new slide anyway. It’s a matter of figuring out wether or not it’s worth anything for resale a value with a new slide. I’ll ad photos of the gun tomorrow in a link, but it’s really just new slide and keep or new slide and sell to fund new open gun.

Thanks for both of y’all’s insight, I did talk to defions arms a while back ( about 6 months ago.) after talking to him about a few things he said the general price for a whole entire new top end of the gun, would be about 1300-1400. Given the price variance across the various different well known brands, does that seem like a good price ?

So my slide cracked on my shorty open gun. Mine is old and I’m the second or third owner. It’s an older J.L Hardy “Shorty” 4.25 gun with two popple holes in the barrel. The crack is on the edge of the ejection port towards the chamber. Small but undeniable. I only put a few thousand rounds through it but I’m unsure of how many were put through it before me, I’m sure it was a lot. my question or questions are, can it be repaired and is it worth repairing as compared to a new slide ? secondly, if getting a new slide for it is the better option, would the frame start to over wear at some point ? And If I decided to sell the gun after all that, given the slide is made by a different builder, would it be worth less in the resale market with the frame and slide being made by different people? Eventually I want to buy a brand new open gun built for me so I kinda want to sell this gun eventually so I can help fund a new one. What would you do? thanks!