robert.a.brewer.

Did anyone ever get a CMore Slideride onto their TSO? CZC makes a mount to fit the TSO slide, but I don't think a Slideride will fit that mount. Maybe it could after a couple drilled and tapped holes into the mount? Any opinions on whether I should forget the Slideride? Should I switch to the RTS2 or the STS2?

Ok. Thanks, I will do the same as you. Dremel the frame up inside the magwell, is that what you did?

858, Did you bevel the frame edge just inside the magwell? From the factory, the opening is not blended, so there is a ledge on the bottom of the frame. I filed mine at an angle.

Thanks Broncman. I learned a lot I priced the CZ OEM CM mount at $150; no wonder you made your own. Did you make the thumb rest also? Good work, looks great!

Broncman, Where is the blast shield? Where exactly did you mill the radius and why? And why does the mount require an offset? There is so much I don't know about CMore optics mounting.

I am interested in the 3 other factory thumb rests. Please let us know how you like them. I find the one that came with the TSO to be OK. I like the position and the angle, but wish it was wider. So, mounting the thumb rest on top of an optic mount will make it a bit wider.

Rowdy, I didn't realize you started this thread more than a year ago. Even though I don't have a S2, I have read it with interest. Lots of good info. Thanks.

Rowdy, Way back in the first post, you say you beveled off the pin on the end of the stainless steel guide rod. Why? (sorry if it was already explained; lots of posts here and admittedly, didn't read em all)

I have seen a recommendation for the Czechmate to grease the slide stop pin and barrel lug. Amsoil grease is said to be very sticky and resist "pound out". Could grease cause problems? Maybe cause slide to not return to battery?

I don't know what I'm seeing in your last two pics.

What is the difference in Scales 1.0 and 2.0 models?

On my drive to work, as I crest the hill, there is a traffic light about 3/4 of a mile up the road. I can see the light if it is Red, but I don't see it if it's Green. Not sure what this means for my shooting. Studies say Green is brighter. Some even make a case for Orange. Shooting environment obviously plays a big role as far as contrasting background colors, as well as brightness of the day. Shooting glasses with interchangeable lenses and a prescription insert, bought as a kit, seem to make the most sense for me. Pricey initially, but worth it in the long run.

If I may ask, are you still using a red fiber optic front sight? I'm using a red on one pistol and a green on another.

Thanks, now I'm looking for those VIP links. How do they work, like a discount code at checkout?

I don't seem to find the Vendor Tent. Under which section is it?

[emoji846]

Does a stronger, more durable, slide stop cause more wear to other parts of the gun? Put another way, does the slide stop take the punishment instead of, perhaps, the barrel lug? So then, could a stronger slide stop cause premature barrel breakage?

Thanks and appreciate your info on recoil buffers. I was surprised my new 9mm TSO came with spare set of buffers and one already installed in the pistol.

Yigal, please, which Tanfo ss will fit my TSO? Do you have a part number for the correct ss?

Very true. What has gotten lost for me in this checkering process is that it's easier on straight flat surfaces. The first checkering video I found was on a 1911 build. It never felt right using it in this CZ thread. 1911s are straight; real guns have curves, lol. So, I've swung from the simple no-risk add grip tape over the waffle checkering, to seriously considering the intricate, painstakingly laborious filing of sharp aggressive diamond points. It's good I can shoot my TSO while I ponder a grip improvement strategy for my TS. Albeit, this may take several hundred rounds.

When finished, how preserve and protect the bare metal so will not rust? Recommendations?

And a messed up row becomes very visible on the overall pattern. Like lint on a herringbone pattern jacket. I'd be interested in what jig Atlas finds that fits a CZ frame.

Yes, I can use the help a jig can provide.

Watching hand checkering makes me wonder if I could just hand file the existing waffle pattern into sharper pyramids. One guy cut every other line resulting in a 10 LPI very aggressive pattern. I see 60 and 90 degree files used for deepening and sharpening. I am continuously amazed by modern gunsmithing methods and tools. Gotta like new tools, lol.