ArnisAndyz

Any chance you are up for a match in VA? If so, you are welcome to try mine first hand. I just saw someone over on AR15.com selling NIB cheap (~80 bucks). (I don't know him from adam, he had a bunch and was down to a few). Doubt that you'll ever beat that deal, and if it does mess with ejection you can likely get your $$ back out, or keep it incase you ever get a RH upper in the future. Thanks for the offer to try yours out, but I don't get up that way very often. Also...thanks for the heads up on the MWG on AR15.com. For that price its worth a try. Excellent points.

If cost is a factor, you can't do better than the MWG. I've never Mono'd off mine. I've never mono'd off my Beta either. MWG IS and odd shape, but I don't notice the weight as much as it throw's my left arm out a little further than I'm used to. Cost factor was what I was thinking. I would prefer a Beta but its a bit over my budget. Rarely at my local club do we shoot more than 90 rounds in a COF, and if the MWG is reliable, it should be good enough for fun and games. I'm a Lefty, so since it hangs off to the left side it should leave my right hand plenty of room, BUT...I have a Lefty Stag and I'm concerned the drum would interfer with ejection of the brass?

Is it junk? http://www.mwgco.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv...der/MWG-223-90A

Thanks for all the replys. I have been practicing tranistions with reduced targets at a closer distance, but I never realized the extra distance would force the eyes to work more. Now that I think about it it makes perfect sense!

Yeah, just not sure how the wife will take 31 full sized targets in the living room! I guess I could start with 3.

Thanks for the tips. I'll pickup a full sized target and set it up at a good distance to work the eyes. I should have enough room in my living room to go out to at least 15 yards.

Had the chance to shoot with a couple top shooters in our club. I had always seen thier names up at the top of the Match results and it seems I had built them up to be superhuman shooting machines. What I saw left an impression on me. I was expecting to see some blazing fast incredible shooting, but instead what I saw was very smooth and controlled shooting. Although once in a while someone would shoot the stage faster than the leaders, the top shooters rarely made any mistakes and seemed to hold pace the entire day. They didn't seem fast, but by the end of the day they were on top. Light bulb comes on now.

Are there any eye focus specific drills that you do during dry-fire to help going from target focus to front sight focus? I taped a small happy face to the front of my muzzle right behind front sight. I start focused on the target, bring the gun up and focus in on the happy face. The reason I drew a happy face is that it was easier for me to see, something more tangible to focus on, then just the front sight, so I'm using it as a crutch until my eyes get used to it. Will this kind of exercise help or am I just waisting my time? Thanks.

Looks like FN is going to offer the WSX2 Practical Mark 1 under the FN brand. No news on pricing yet. "AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE IN AUGUST/SEPTEMBER, 2006" http://www.fnhusa.com/contents/sg_slpmk1.htm

I've been trying to convince my wife into letting trade my sedan for this. Toyota FJ Cruiser. Old 60/70s Land Cruiser reborn!

It would be interesting to hear how many are bullets forward vs bullets back. So far its 3 out of 3 for bullets pointing to the rear, however, I'm finding alot of companies like Blade-Tek are orientated for bullets forward (NOTE: STANDARD AR-15 POUCHES ARE MADE WITH BULLETS FORWARD). I guess if you wanted bullets to the rear you could order the lefthand model (if your right handed).

lips down, bullets pointed to rear-much easier on the wrist. also, if you have to reload from a prone position and forgot to take the mag out, it's also easier... Gotcha...mine is the same way, lips down bullets pointing to the rear. Since my pouch is near vertical, I like to grab it in a "reverse" position (if it wee a fixed blade knife it would be in reverse or icepick grip) rather than bending the wrist over for a pistol grip draw. I'll have to experiment with where I carry the mag and the angle its sitting. If the the mag was canted more rearward, almost horizontal where the bullets are pointing to the ground, I'm thinking that would make for a faster draw/reload.

guess it depends on yer loading technique, but mine are on the belt with the rounds facing to the rear-that way you can just stuff it into the mag well without turning it 180 degrees. Thanks, but I'm not sure I follow? Are you starting mag lips down bullets pointing to the back? Or are they mag lips up pointing back? In either case, wouldn't it still need to go 180 (either on a verticle axis or a horizontal)? If the mag lips are down with bullets forward, there is still a 180 turn on a different axis. The only way I see avoiding 180 is to have lips up bullets forward.

When you have a rifle mag carrier on your belt, weakside, do you point the bullets forwards or backwards? With the AR 30 round mags I'm having a hard time guiding the bullet with my index finger like a pistol mag (mag is too big for my small hands). I tried bullets backwards, pulling the mag straight out, so the mag is upside down bullets facing to the rear, then rolling it forward, my palm ends up under the baseplate where I can exert more pressure when seating the mag. It has worked for me, but I'm not sure if its the best way. TIA, Andy

Same findings as aerosigns. Metered fine through the measure on the square deal, but not so hot on the Lee1000. W231 metered fine throught the Lee though. Safety f irst...I would either switch powders (don't use Clays) on the 1000 or don't use the 1000 (if you want to use Clays).

I study Filipino Martial Arts which has many, many "flow" drills" one of which is Cadena de mano or chain of the hands. The idea is that instead of block, then punch, then block, then whatever...the flow is what hold all of the individual techniques together. Its the "glue" that binds them. The flow dictates what technique will come next. The flow is everchanging depending on external and internal factors. The flow is state of sensitivity and awareness that allows us to perform our techniques. You might break a draw down into its component peices for skill development, but when you draw and fire that first shot it should be one flowing movement. Likewise, the transitions from target to target in a string should be chained or linked together mentally. Then strings in a staged linked. Its the diffrence between constructing words, sentences, paragraphs and chapters. Here is an article that I wrote for Eskrima Digest. I remember when my daughter got her first set of LEGOS. It was a pretty basic set and it took her a while to learn how to click them together. As time went on, and she was proficient with the operation of the blocks, she asked me to help her make the picture on the box. She started copying the picture, getting frustrated when she couldn’t do it and tearing the blocks down and starting all over until she finally got it. She played with it everyday for two weeks. She eventually got bored with it and didn’t play with it for a while. Several months later she found the toy at the bottom of her toy box and pulled it out. But this time something was different. Instead of copying the picture on the box she started making her own creations. A chair and table, a car, a house, etc. Her creativity was growing with each piece that she made. Her cousin, who is close to the same age, came over one day and, like all kids, they started fighting over the toy. We went out and bought her an identical set of LOGOS. I then had them each make whatever they wanted using the same set. Can you guess what happened? They both made totally unique creative sculptures using the same blocks. Even when I had them make the same object, they were different. And the great part was that they were both right. So what does this have to do with Filipino Martial Arts you might ask? Everything. When we first begin a martial art we learn the details of form and structure by copying an instructor or senior and by repetitive drills. As years go on and we get more proficient we start to develop our own identity and personality that is governed by our physical abilities, personal opinions and experiences. We no longer are bound to a strict set of rules. We no longer have to make the picture on the box, but are free to construct or own destiny in our martial arts held in check by the laws and principles of the basics. The beautiful thing with LEGOS is that you can buy different sets and they all “click together.” you can buy a Spaceship Set and combine it with a Castle Set. With the additional blocks unique combinations can be made that would not be available with either set on its own. The same can be said with the FMA. You can learn from somebody in Arnis and learn from somebody in Karate. Some concepts will be the same and some may contrast. It is part of your growth in the art to go through the process of comparing, combining, discarding and modifying what works for you. The reason why this works in an FMA structure is the concept of flowing. The same way my daughter learned that the little round nubs on the top of the LEGOs fit on the bottom of another block, the flow in Arnis teaches how to connect the techniques. You are in fact not only learning techniques, but a method of building that transcends the techniques. Well, my daughter is older now and has since moved on to more advanced LEGO sets in the 5-6 year old age range. The pieces are smaller and some of the shapes are more complex, but the fundamentals of how to connect them remain the same.

My friend also just picked one up. We haven't shot it yet though. He hated the green at first but I think its growing on him, I personally like it. He got it for $575 NIB (+shipping and FFL transfer) off of Gunbroker, thought it was a good deal.

Has anybody tried these for their P14? http://www.precisionsalesintl.com/actmag.html It takes 14 rounds and thought this might be an alternative to the Mec-Gar 13 rounders as cheap practice/spare mags. Wonder if they except the Dawson basepads? I have a couple Act Mags for my single-stack 1911 that work great.

I used eclusively W231 for the longest time with good results. That being said, I just picked up 8lbs of Clays based on info on this board as well as a few old-timers advice at the local range. Haven't loaded anything with it yet, still finishing off the last of the 231, but I'm looking forward to working up some loads soon. Somebody also told me that Clays works great at minimum power floor levels but not as good as 231 at max-load hi psi levels. Can anybody verify this?

thanks for the quick reply! I didn't know they made those, I'm fairly new to reloading, I'll go buy the reloading shop and pick a couple up.

How do you get all the primers facing the "right way" ? Tried Winchester Primers, they are face down in the package so when I flip them over, they end up face up (wrong way), also tried Remington primers, they were sideways in the package so that didn't help. I ended up using an empty package tray, matched it up so the holes line up, flip it over so they are now facing face up in the package, then flip them over so they're face down. Is there a better way?

Has anybody tried one of these? I took a file to my standard Novak rear sight and although it works, its not a perfect job and is a little off. I'd like to replace it. Thanks, andy http://www.novaksights.com/novak_wide_notch_sights.htm

I use a G-Code kydex holster for my 1911 and I'm happy with it. Cost was reasonable. Price was right in-between a Fobus and a BladeTech I was looking at.

On the M4...in addition to the other changes mentioned I would change the collapsable stock and carbine buffer to an A1 with the rifle buffer. Some people say you can't notice the difference, but it did seem smoother to me, it also has a better cheek weld. Not sure if this is correct or not but I think its like a coil spring of a car. The shorter spring has to have a higher spring rate (stiffer) to handle the same weight as the longer spring. The longer spring can distribute the shock over a longer area, so it can be softer. Riding in my nephews customized Honda is definately more jarring than before he lowered it!