matteekay

Bottom. I also have guns with the top one but I can't reach them well enough to deactivate the safety consistently (perfect for a Stock II, terrible for a Limited Master).

Nope, I'm not THAT bad. My grip looks like the top photo, but this Tanfo had a much larger safety than even an "extended" safety on a 1911 so it was opening space between my hands. I just cut it back and I think that's the answer. Now, it has enough meat for me to toggle it off, but not so much that I can't get contact with my support hand.

It's possible, but I don't think so. The springs were correctly seated and straight until I pulled the trigger a few times (at which point they bent). The stock spring, installed the exact same way, doesn't have any issues. The floating pin looks interesting. I only see the CZ part - does that fit Tanfo's?

Oh... it sounds like you know the exact safeties I'm talking about, lol. I was accidentally activating it about once per match; I just finished cutting it down into a triangle shape to give my support hand more clearance. As a bonus, it feels like I'll be able to toggle it off and then slide my thumb over so it meets with my support hand better. To clarify: right now, I have my support hand at a natural grip (it's positioned so that my hands would align and close the opening if the safety wasn't in the way). The only way to get higher is to over-rotate it, pushing my thumb further forwards and shifting my weak-hand middle finger up under the trigger guard rather than having it wrapped around my strong hand. It feels wrong, but I'm absolutely going to try shooting that way next time I'm at the range to see if it gives me more control.

Nope, it looked like it was supposed to (with the legs close together). That only took a few trigger pulls.

Welp... it wasn't my fault for once. I installed another Patriot Defense spring using a slave pin as described in the video. It worked great... until I put on the slide and pulled the trigger. Every time it actuated, the pull got stiffer and stiffer until the trigger didn't return at all. I took the gun apart and sure enough, the spring had bent in the exact same way: I then realized I had a stock spring sitting around so I put that in and it works great. So, something is up with the PD "reduced power" springs.

Yeah, mine is definitely mangled. I hadn't seen the slave pin trick - I'll try that!

Well that's not good, lol. This one is from Patriot Defense; I just ordered a few more from them so hopefully I get one that works. I'd put the original back in but it launched into the stratosphere when I was disassembling the gun.

Hey, lovely people! I had converted my Stock II to SAO using a Henning flat trigger. I'm thinking about playing in Production so I went to convert it back to DA/SA. Naturally, putting the trigger return spring in is the biggest pain in the butt. I had in installed correctly (I thought) as the trigger would return without the slide on. Once I installed the slide, it would freeze to the rear and wouldn't reset unless I gave it another hard squeeze. I took the slide off and I noticed that the spring is being pushed up by the leading edge of the trigger: If I pull the trigger slightly, the spring drops back into the channel the way it's supposed to. I took it all apart and the spring looks incorrectly bent: I'm assuming I mangled it while I was installing it (I'm usually the problem) but is there something else I'm missing? How is that spring supposed to seat? I don't see how it can clear the trigger.

I can, but only if I break my wrist over more (my index finger is already jammed up against the trigger guard). So... maybe? It feels unnatural but that doesn't mean you're wrong.

Hey all, I'm a relatively new Limited shooter here and trying to improve from "hot garbage" to "sub-mediocre". I've got shorter fingers and the gun I'm using (Tanfo Limited Master) has a hilariously big thumb safety. I've noticed that leaving my thumb on the safety creates a bit of a gap between my hands when shooting freestyle; not huge, but definitely more than there was when I shot 1911/2011's. Looking for opinions. Should I go to a smaller safety so I can get contact between the edges of my hands? Or does that bit of an opening not matter as long as I'm sufficiently crushing the gun? Thanks!

Correct, there's no wording about one moon per holder any more.

See if Chiappa has any of these parts in stock and order multiple (numbers correspond to their diagram Mainspring (#12) Hammer Bearing or Steel Ring (I forget what they call it; the little metal ring that fits over the trigger linkage and goes into the hammer) (#22) Sideplate screws (#9) Trigger return / cylinder release spring (they use the same one) (#33) These parts are all cheap when they're in stock. When they're not, they're usually gone for a looooong time and you can expect to overpay for them if you can find them on eBay or GB. None of these should break on their own but you may lose a bearing/spring or mangle a screw if you take the gun apart frequently. Otherwise, shoot it a bunch (and/or dry-fire with snap caps). It'll wear in and smooth out a bit for you. You'll probably also want to change the grips as the stock units are razor thin/sharp toward the bottom. Hogue's big butt profile is easily the best option. Oh, and I did try bending the mainspring and managed to get the trigger pull down a smidge. The hard thing is that one spring is driving both the hammer fall and the trigger return so adjustments are always relative to each other and you can't change them independently.

I'd assume OP does a strong-hand reload if he's positioning his moons in the same side as the gun. But if you're doing a weak-hand reload... yup, this.

Chiappa used to sell a Rhino with both 9mm and .357 cylinders. I suspect there's less fitting involved than there would be on a S&W due to the pin design of the ratchet (see Pat's post above). They very, very rarely come up for sale, but I've seen a few 9mm cylinders on eBay. Chiappa won't sell them to you unless you have a FFL.

My setup is goofy. One double stack up front with a single holder next to it, then one single holder behind my hip for "load and make ready". It keeps my reloads as tight together as possible. I can run a triple stack with .40's but the top moon is loose enough that it could bounce out.

I threw a couple of those on top of my standard 180gr charge (which is about a 169 PF). It dropped the power factor down to around 140 with noticeably less recoil. I'd definitely run that if I shot ICORE consistently. Edit: Nope, sorry, it was the ACME 140gr LRN. My memory failed me (getting old sucks).

I wouldn't call it "problematic", though. The rules state the post needs to protrude and yours clearly doesn't but most on the market do. See: Hogue, Revolver Supply Co, North Mountain, etc. I actually made my own by taking the metal Safariland speed loader holders and adding a post through the center, and ran one of those paired with a RSC holder for the last two seasons to have three moons up front and close together. Yours look like the old California Competition Works holders. They used to sell a "button" that goes into the top of the post specifically designed to make them IDPA legal.

False. The rules you quoted literally say it's fine. I also shot Nationals last year, a L2, and a L4 this year using open holders with posts with zero issues. Personally, I like the Revolver Supply Co holders, either with a single moon or with two stacked. And yes, 105 PF for SSR, 155 PF for ESR, and they're just equipment categories of the same division (which is simply "Revolver"). No rules about placement as long as they're hidden from view with your concealment garment on, and you can have four moons at the start signal.

Lol. That trigger upgrade I describe? That's it. No one makes parts other than Chiappa, and they won't sell you the competition trigger components (they have to install them for you). They also won't sell you a number of internal parts unless you're a FFL. I'd skip the Match Master and go with the Charging Rhino Gen II if the gun is going to be a range toy and/or for ICORE Limited 6. It starts with a good trigger and offers some at-home customizability, but it doesn't play in other sports because none of them are conducive to 6 rounds of 9mm. I've also never been a fan of those rib sights unless you're shooting PPC or Bullseye.

Perfect, thank you. It's not much more to do the moon cut so I figured I'd do it even if I'm not shooting ICORE any time soon; I just didn't want any detrimental affect on loading from speed loaders.

Well you wouldn't remember it. OBVIOUSLY.

Hey spinnygun folks! I've been slowly setting up a K-Frame to try SSR/speedloaders in IDPA (and maybe Classic in ICORE if I suffer a traumatic brain injury or something). I'm at the point where I'm going to get the charge holes chamfered so I'm kicking around if I should get the gun cut for moons, too, in case I ever want to use it in L6. I know it shouldn't make any difference (hypothetically) but is there any downside when using a moonclip-cut cylinder with speedloaders? Any sort of interference/clearance I'm not thinking of?

That's one chonky boi!

Pppppppfffft, practice shmactice. Glad it was a good time!