Face5535

Craig, good luck man! Totally random that this topic is posted in the sub forum. Tell Bob I said hello!

Welcome aboard!

He closed his books a little over a year ago. I do not think they are reopened yet.

I’m on his books, I’m probably about a year out give or take. Really looking forward to getting one of his in hand!

Yep! JR is amazing…. His carry bevel is second to none. I also think having him build on a stainless Colt really allows his work to shine!

John does great work! I’m pretty sure he’s retiring from building but he’s still offering great parts!

Baer’s are great, I’m not a Wilson guy. Imo both of these would be more semi custom than custom. That said, can’t go wrong with a Baer!

IMO Greg Derr is a fraud. He’s been kicked off several high end 1911 forums. He’s lucky to still be listed on the custom handgun guild page. I’ve got nothing against him personally but I don’t deem him a trust worthy individual

I know this is more of a gaming forum, but is anyone else into full house custom 1911’s? If so, who are your favorite guns smiths? Who’s work do you own!

I don’t think Cerakote will hurt the metallurgy of a firearm, but,to much Cerakote can hurt tolerance stack and cause problems. I would probably be most concerned with finishes like nitride as the temps are far greater than finished like Cerakote.

I switched to automatic presses a few years back… they are great, but for quick swap calibers I still think it’s hard to beat a 650/750. I just reacquired an older 650… Can the group give me the recommended upgrades for the press? I remember snowshooze was pretty much where it was at years ago. Is that still the consensus? Let me know!

I like the older Chip shooting star and the newer Vickers mags

Looking for something for a 115 rn jacketed zero. I’ve always done 4.2gr. Anyone care to share?

Ned Christiansen Frag

Jason Burton 45.. All black, All business, Full DLC, Old school rolls!

Looking for thoughts on toolhead die set up on a 1050! I have upgraded to the CNC Enhanced toolheads, so I now have an extra die spot over the priming station. I have noticed that 9mm Dillon dies can often times give a bottle neck shape... and Dillons seating die can leave a "ring" around the top of the bullet nose. I think I am going to move to a Redding competition seating die. I am curious what the rest of the group is running... Ive looked at FW Arms Decap, Mighty Armory Dies, and Redding dies as well. Anyone have some thoughts on full toolhead set up for 9mm, 38 super, and 45? I am thinking that a MA Decapping Die, Lee U die (decap pin removed), and a M Die followed by powder drop, MBF, Redding seating, and then either RCBS,Redding, or Dillon Crimp for 9mm. Not set on this, but I think it could be a good plan.

I have an opportunity to buy a stripped down 1050 press at around solid price ($400 bucks or so). I have 3 1050's set up, and can take down the presses etc with not many issues. I have very little experience with aftermarket stuff, so I do not know what some of this stuff means. Additionally, I have a lot of the spare parts needed so that should be helpful.Here is my the issue is the press was on a drive so it’s been modified a bit. The owner says “it has been sleeved so that it’ll reduce wear on the shaft. I have been told it runs smoother than a stock press, and other than honing out the frame and fitting the bushing, nothing else has been changed- it’s identical to stock. He says where the shaft slides through the frame its been honed, then a slip bearing installed. The design allows the bearing to be pushed out and a replacement can be installed if needed. So, where the shaft goes into the frame, the frame has been trimmed away and a new piece of brass has been installed there. This way, the shaft slides through the brass bushing instead of the cast metal of the frame and it makes it stronger and less likely to wear. These upgrades were designed to make it last a lot longer.I personally have no idea what some of that means. Since I was planning on sending it to Dillon for a refurb, I don’t want them to say they will not do it due to this. When I taked to them, they said it should be fine... Just wanted your thoughts here.Am looking for honest thought and opinions as I don’t want to get stuck with a useless cast frame. Here are some pics-

Its been fine... been loading em up and no issues at this point!

I would 100% be looking in the 1911addicts.com classified section. Those guys are all reasonable, and the with the market being down you can score a really amazing gun for much less than they should be going for. ive seen Wilson’s in the sub 2k range of late. Dont rush and buy when you know it’s the right deal! Additionally, most of those guys are not gamers, so the majority of the 1911’s there will be very much like new.

Just popping back in, new rounds-no problems at all! Never thought over crimp could cause issues in Glock. Does are adjusted we are all good! Thanks guys:)

Will do...

Yes, actually... I was loading both 115 and 124 berrys (and honestly, may not have adjusted my dies when I changed over). Ill have to do a bit more messing around tomorrow and get more pics of what you are asking for... I also know I need to do some adjusting to my dies before I load anything else. This is all "practice range ammo", not match or duty ammo... so the fact that its running fin in my other guns means, thats what Ill shoot it out of them (this isnt ideal, but at least its not wasted ammo). Once I load up more with adjusted dies and proper crimp, that may just fix this issue... Either way, I am going to go to the range with and grab a bunch of factory ammo... if the pistol functions perfectly with it, then I will 100% know its the ammo, not anything to do with the gun.

Obviously... At this point we are way past that though:) Ha!

So, I obviously see this:) Is this the potential issue? Any other though based on seeing the rounds?

How could my striker/firing pin be hitting the primer so hard on the first two, and then I get the light hit on the last? This is with the factory striker spring, lantac barrel, johnny glock trigger... all three out of the same gun (G19)