BC27

Ok, I received my spare sears to experiment with yesterday so last night I got to tinkering. I'm really happy to report that I was successfully able to reduce both the over travel and reset! I don't have a way to measure the reduction exactly but I would say it has been reduced by at least 30%. Everything I suspected worked exactly as I hoped. So now my trigger breaks at clean 2.5 lbs with minimal over travel and a earlier reset. I think it's an amazing trigger and I really can't ask for anything more. edit: I was able to make the reductions by changing the timing on the sear. The sear resets much closer to the striker release now. This allowed me to add to the trigger stop reducing the over travel. Because the striker release and sear reset occurs So close to one other now, the dreaded double click is impossible to detect with even slow trigger pull.

It seemed possible, thanks for the confirmation. Just placed my order with Springer. Thanks!

Would you happen to know if the X5 would be under 33.5 oz (Production legal) with one of those Tungsten rods?

I ordered some 17 round magazines and I was pleasantly surprised to find that they fit the X5 grip module with no modifications. Sig must have made a running change to the baseplate. They still have the tabs but they're tapered to fit the X5.

I don't know the difference from two to just one because I didn't have my gauge until recently. However, it is a noticeable reduction and an easy way to reduce the pull weight. If I were to guess, it feels like around 3/4 pounds lighter using just one sear spring.

I got my trigger pull gauge just now. Did a 5 pulls to get an average and ended up with 2 pounds 9 ounces. All 5 pulls were pretty consistent with the lowest one at 2 pounds 5 ounces and the highest at 2 pounds 11 ounces. I consider this a very good sign as the trigger is stable. I think I'd be a bit worried if there were extreme spreads in weight. I did find it impossible to get consistent pulls on the flat trigger by itself so I had to put a rubber band around it to keep the gauge from sliding all over. I placed the rubber band so that the gauge would pull from the middle of the trigger. So I've got about 200 rounds though it now and it feels very consistent. Here's a couple pics. Looks like I won't get my spare parts to work in the shorter reset and over travel until next week so that will have to wait.

Cabela's has them online. Search 320X5-9-BAS I recently picked mine up at my local Cabela's.

First thing to clarify is that I'm not a gun smith so anything I write is based only on my back ground in mechanical engineering. I do not have any formal firearms background. Now that that's out of the way, I believe what dictates trigger pull weight and feel on the P320 is the various leverage geometry's, sear face, sear springs, trigger bar spring and then friction surfaces. More or less in that order. The geometry of the trigger assembly as a whole is fairly costly to change (requires manufacturing new parts) so I started with the sear profile. It has an angle to make it difficult for the striker to unintentionally slip but this is IMO the cause of a few extra pound of trigger weight and creep/mushy feel. Using very fine stones for knife sharpening, I reduced the angle of the sear face a little at a time, reassembling to test and disassembling for additional reduction. Of course it's critical not to go too far. At the same time, I found that using just one of the two sear springs provided enough sear return weight while knocking off trigger pull weight. I then tuned the trigger bar spring by gently bending it to also reduce trigger pull weight while not going too soft as to eliminate an autable and tactile reset. Finally, I lightly pollished friction surfaces where it seemed relevant. I do feel that this has the least amount of effect as Sig designed the friction surfaces to have minimal surface area already. I wish I had my gauge to provide an exact pull weight but I should get that tomorrow. I believe it's about 3 pounds but just as importantly, the take up is smooth to a defined wall followed by a very, very crisp break. So all I really want now is less over travel and a shorter reset to make this trigger perfect. I believe this can be achieved by changing the profile of the bottom of the sear where the sear resets. This is also where the trigger resets. I think if I shorten the height just a bit, I think it will cause the sear to reset sooner, closer to when the striker is released. Right now, there is a rather large gap in timing in which the striker releases and then the sear resets. This is why P320s double click. Technically, all of them do it, you just don't notice it in all of them. Anyway, if the sear reset is reduced, it will allow me to add to the trigger stop which will reduce over travel. This should also cause the trigger to reset sooner. I should get my spare sears to play with in a few days so I'll let you guys know if any of that works. BTW, I accomplished all of this with my VP9 and I'm about 10K rounds though it now and the trigger is as good as when I first tuned it. I am confident the reliability will be the same with the X5.

I did some trigger work to my X5. In stock form, my trigger had a lot of creep and was pretty mushy. I don't have a gauge but I think the overall pull was about 6 pounds. After doing some tuning, I have virtually no creep and a pretty crisp break. It feels like it breaks at around 3 pounds. I ordered a Lyman gauge so I should have an actual measurement in a couple days. Also, I think I know how to reduce the reset and take out some over travel. I ordered some spare parts so that I can experiment with them. If I can accomplish this, it will be an amazing trigger. Anyone know if the Gray Guns service reduces overtravel and/or reset?

Thanks alma, so to confirm, it needs to be pushed straight up? Not out towards the mag channel? Good to know it's ok for Production but I may shoot it in IDPA at some point and I think I have to take it out for that?

Just got my X5. How do you remove the grip weight? I don't think I can leave it in for Production right?

In my experience as an RO and a competitor, I can't remember seeing a hit that did not have a "grease ring" unless it was a shoot though. This is for all kinds of bullets (jacketed, plated and coated). They should call it a "fouling ring" because it not typically "grease" in the literal sense.

The "grease ring" is the blackish ring the bullet will leave around the hole of the first thing it hits. It's just carbon and bullet coating residue on the bullet and from the barrel. I shoot Polymer coated Blue Bullets so my "grease rings" are blackish blue. As mentioned above, if you have a "shoot though" from a plastic barrel, wood, or another paper target, the "ring' will be much lighter to non existent and is in fact a good indication of a "shoot though".

IMO, getting firearm owners/enthusiasts to shoot USPSA, 3Gun or any other form of organized shooting competition will never generate a lot of interest. It's the same reason most of us do not take our cars to the race track, let alone actually compete in races with our cars or bikes. I'm sure most of us love our cars too. I used to be heavily involved in track days and amateur racing both cars and motorcycles but the reality is, most sports car and motorcycle enthusiasts aren't interested in actually racing their cars or bikes for various reasons (Cost, intimidation, dedicating the time, maybe all of the above, etc...) Most of my friends with sport bikes have zero interest in going to the track because of those reasons even though they're very good riders and tear it up in the canyons. Most would rather just go for a spirited ride with their buddies. I think most gun owners would rather just plink with their friends for the same reasons.

My understanding is that if stored properly (cool, dark, dry place), they will last longer than you.

The AR15 version will do the same but I just used a paper clip to press the detent. Works great so I leave the detent in.

Maybe the OAL of your ammo? The throat of you barrel might have eroded a bit and might need a longer OAL?

I like ArmPro (by Missing Link). They're SPF 50 rated: http://www.missinglnk.com/default.asp?page=xstore&zcid=19968

You might be looking at the wrong model. All the dealers pretty much have the 1-8 with the BRT-I reticle marked at $2,419. The 4A-IF reticle is $2,609 but I don't think that would be a good choice for 3 Gun.

I'm kinda waiting the the 1-8 BRT-I to come out and they seem to be about $2,419. The 1-6 seem to be $200 less new. How much are you asking for yours?

Where can you get the 1-6 that low?

+1 on the anchors. These are perfect: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H5WVCS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not an expert on the VP9 by any stretch but IMO, it is not one of the H&K's that I would consider over sprung. In fact, I think it's a bit on the under sprung side. When the striker is cocked on the VP9, you can see how light the spring already is as you can momentarily move the slide out of battery just by flicking it back and forward quickly with your wrist. Also, when an actual round is chambered and you perform a press check, the slide barely goes back into battery and sometimes needs a nudge. I shoot soft loads in my VP9 all the time and have never had any issues with malfunctions.

Just curious, why do you want a lighter recoil spring?

Sure, but it's nothing special. Everyone has their own method but pertaining to the barrel but this is what I do for when it's really dirty. I start by rolling up a piece of a paper towel and sticking it though the baffles of the muzzle brake (this is to catch and absorb the solvent). With the muzzle brake pointing down and the camber up, I spray a generous amount of Hoppe's #9 down the camber, though the barrel (I use a little spay bottle). Enough that it extra pours out the barrel and is caught by the paper towel. I'll lay it down and just let it soak for 15 minutes while I clean the BCG. After about 15min I'll run a patch to clear out the loose particles, then run a bronze bore brush though a couple times to break up the carbon and copper. This is followed by another patch to clear the loose stuff and then the bronze brush again. Basically, I scrub, then wipe with a patch so that I'm not just scrubbing the particles around. I like to flush them out and scrub and repeat as needed. You'll be able to see the patches coming out with less and less crap until you're satisfied. When I think it's clean, I run a patch with a thin layer of oil and I'm done. That's basically how I do it and I'm sure there are plenty of people that will say it's wrong but it works for me.