Justinmac13

Thank you dogtired, my googlefu is no good. Thx again

Take engineereli's advice. I think it was his posts and threads I read when fitting my t3 on my stock2 Runs great.

On tanfo, along with the "leg" like highlighted above, You will probably need to remove material from the under side of the wing. I did anyway. Be sure to file, test fit, file test fit, etc. a little bit goes a long way, if you take too much off the bottom of the "wing" it will drop the hammer too early in DA.

No I chucked it already

I currently have springer pads, I'm actually talking about the piece that is connected to the spring inside the mag tube. It has a small bump on it that locks it into the basepad and secures the basepad to the tube. Mine broke the front off of it and now my basepad will move about 1/4" back and fourth

forgive my ignorance, I'm not sure what the piece is called that is on the end of the mag spring that holds the base pad in place. I had one break at a local match yesterday and am having a hard time finding a replacement. Do I have to buy the entire spring with the "plate" on it or can I just buy metal plates to swap out the plastic ones on my mags? If I can will you please post where a good place to get this part from.

Stock sp01 shadow number 91154, 8.5# hammer spring, 11lb recoil spring, extended fp, light fp spring, reduced power trigger return spring, floating trigger pin, 100% with federals, I've also only tried federals. Love the trigger but I wish it had a more defiant break, next upgrade may be the comp hammer to see if that helps.

Sorry about your luck, I also came from a glock 34 and I could not be happier with the cz platform. It may take a bit more care and a little more difficult to work on, but luckily there is a ton of good diy's on here that helped me out. I also hear a lot about its the Indian not the arrow, but I can say that even though I still suck, I suck a lot less with the cz and it wasn't because of practicing more.

Found these on a topic over in the CZ forum, I may need to try some of these. Has anyone put them on their Stock II? https://coppergungrips.com/Witness_Grips.php

The CZ CGW T3 disco is what some have recommended on here, I did this mod and it is much better than stock. I have to admit I had a moment of dumbassness when I was fitting mine though so it is not as good as it should have been but still much better than stock. I was first fitting the DA pull and had the sear cage in with the sear out so I could see what was going on. Once I got the DA fit I started removing material from the leg of the disco and forgot to put the sear back in. I have about 1/8th in of pretravel now in SA.

Drewbeck Building one from ground up is where I want to get too, I am just starting my research into this and am looking for the best way to start. I agree with you as a fun hobby as I have had a great time tinkering on parts and fitting parts on my tanfo and cz. The 1911/2011 platform seems a little more complicated than the cz/tanfo platform though.

Thank you guys, I'll look into jerrys books. Are there any in depth how to threads on here that you have pinned. I know on the cz forum there have been some great how to threads that can help any shmo like me.

I am looking for what the benos folks consider to be some of the best books videos etc. learning on how to work on your 2011 / 1911 platforms. There is so much information on the web and I only want to trust what I see from the people on here. I have found in the last year or so I really enjoy tinkering around with my cz' sand tanfo and feel pretty confident on that platform.

Just so i'm understanding you correctly, "I use a CGW CZ FPS for my plunger springs" you are talking about cutting them down and using them on the trigger bar plunger correct? Right now I have a Click Pen spring installed and every so often on a DA pull it will not catch until I let the trigger come forward with a little momentum. I am assuming my plunger spring is too weak to lift my trigger bar to catch the disco. Or my TRS is weak, My reset does not make much of a click anymore I have noticed. It fits without cutting. Its the same length and diameter, more or less, as the stock plunger spring. I tried the pen spring thing and that didn't last long because of the same issue you are having. Good to know, I have some cz parts laying around I will give this a try, I was going to order the henning plunger springs but wanted to wait till I thought I needed more parts. Paying high shipping for two small springs just seems to piss me off.

Just so i'm understanding you correctly, "I use a CGW CZ FPS for my plunger springs" you are talking about cutting them down and using them on the trigger bar plunger correct? Right now I have a Click Pen spring installed and every so often on a DA pull it will not catch until I let the trigger come forward with a little momentum. I am assuming my plunger spring is too weak to lift my trigger bar to catch the disco. Or my TRS is weak, My reset does not make much of a click anymore I have noticed.

Not trying to Hijack the thread but what do you think of your S3 compared to your S2's, You say you like the longer site radius on the Lim pro, what about the longer site radius on the S3? I don't see very many threads yet where people are favoring the S3 over the S2. Or maybe i'm just overlooking them since I only have a S2.

Nealio, you are correct, what I am feeling is the slide stop going up the last cut in the slide. I took the barrel and guide rod out and put a light at the rear and looked down where the barrel was and could see what I was feeling. I slightly chamfered the slide stop block and polished the "ramp" in the cut of the slide. It is better but when racking real slow still catches just a little.

Thanks Eli I'll try that and post back

I see the op Adam looks like he had the Titan hammer installed. I also just added the Titan hammer and 1pc sear, cgw disco, I don't recall this happening before but I never really checked it. Could any of the mods listed above cause this issue?

I am having the same issue but only when the mag is inserted. It does it without any rounds in it so it's not an ammo issue. It is only the last 1/8th inch or so is just gritty feeling and the slide stop lever moves a little. About 500 rounds is all through the gun. Any ideas, or what did the previous posters do to resolve the issue?

After just doing all the mods talked about on here I am really happy I have did this so far. What a difference it makes from the stock trigger. I got most of my stuff from EG, Other than an issue with the CC company putting a lock on my card for an over seas order the transaction was great and quicker than expected. Parts list I have installed below. Titan Hammer EG extended fp reduced power fps EG guide rod wolf recoil spring pack click pen plunger spring CGW type 3 disco EG light hammer spring dawson fiber front site EG grips EG 1 pc sear EG extended fire pin block (need to fit yet) Polished everything. I do not have a trigger scale but it is a whole lot better than I started, but still not as smooth or good as the shadow.

If you shot some 2" groups at 25 yards, I'd say you're being awfully modest. :bow: I was cheating, it was off of bags and a table

I use the top of the sites split the "bullseye" in half.

My groups at 25 yards are around 2" off bags. It is my uspsa load 147s black bullets and win231. Nealio, this was my initial thought as well, but I have had no issues with my shadow or glock, when I first started shooting I remember shooting low left and with dry fire I had corrected this issue.

I have a new stock II that I sighted in last weekend and had to move the rear sites quite a ways to the left as it was shooting about 6" right at 25 yards. I will be the first to admit I am not a great shot but I did not have to move my Shadow's sights or any other gun for that matter. I have tried even shooting off bags and really concentrate on pulling straight back on the trigger. The rear site looks to be centered on the top of the slide and the front sight notch appears to be in the center of the top as well. I know its not a big deal as I was able to zero it in but I would like it to be centered instead of clearly being moved to the left. any ideas?