jtrump

I'm not sure which direction I should be headed in the case of weight, since my bolt is 13.9oz, or some say 13.7oz. Sigh, getting a gun to run adequately is pretty simple, but to make it perfect is like some dark art to me. I typically like to run a 136-140pf if that helps any

So not everyone jump on me at once here, but I did use the search feature honest to god. This has literally been beaten to death but after some recent testing and reading I'm slightly on the confused side. So my bolt weighs 13.9oz as per JP. I've been running a .308 carbine spring with a blitz buffer that weights 6oz I believe. Today I took to the range with me some .223 spring my smith gave me and well... the gun has significantly less movement in it. I have no idea how old this spring is, it was not color coded and I do not have a spring tester. I was running some 125's behind 4.0g of wsf that chrono'd 137 pf and felt really good. Would it hamper me to ditch the blitz buffer and maybe use a lighter one? And as far as springs go, sprinco blue/red? I don't want to buy a ton of springs but the .223 spring certainly felt better in the shoulder, dot movement and on paper @ 15 yards.

Don't jinx me on the DQ part on on a streak!

Gotta get my gun flat first :), where did you buy your spring pack from?

While were on the topic, I just went and cleaned my gun where I have access to a parts washer, and taaaadaaaa, my firing pin was broken.. No idea how long it's been that way haha.

That's the part I'm having trouble with..... I have a JP GMR-13 using a Blitz buffer, and .308 carbine spring, no weight in the BCG, and no matter what load the gun isn't what I would call Flat. It's very accurate, but it's pretty bouncy no matter the powder or bullet weight. Not sure which direction to go, I do know the .308 rifle spring made it worse.

I'm torn between everything... I typically have been shooting loads that make around 138-144PF.

I would clean my gun less often but my JP barrel eats lead bullets, after just one match pretty much half my comp is blocked.

Well I put some rounds down range with the 510c in red last night. I tried it with just a dot, and circle dot. I think it's a good optic, maybe I need more time with it but it feels weird going from a C-More to this.

That's an awfully big difference in PF wow! Any new updates on that? That 16" BARREL must be fast.

That's kind of the impression I got when testing it indoors last night and looking out the window. I'm so use to just a dot, I feel like the circle dot may be to busy for me, or I can just adjust to it with rounds down range ^_^.

How is everyone choosing to setup their 510's, manual or auto mode?

Is the 510c off amazon going to be the same as the one if I were to order it from opticsplanet? I'm getting really tired of my cmore's zero changing ;(.

On the backside of the butt stock up top about an 1" and and same at the bottom, gives me fewer hang ups on clothing if I don't bring the gun out far enough trying to go fast from stock on belt.

Since the GMR's are pretty heavy I went with the Minimalist route to get all the weight savings possible. I like the barrel weight on the gun, but getting it close to 6lbs unloaded is a chore without something like a taccom barrel which I found to be to bouncy. But it all falls down into what's comfortable for you, I put some clear nail polish on mine to help reduce snags and it works just fine. I switched from the magpul and only saved a few oz, few here, few there.

I've tried both 15 and 25 yards... I personally like 15 yard zero as at 20 it hasn't really changed by around 28yards I'm 2inches high. It sure helps on classifiers that are close and require fast head shots to know I don't have to hold over the target. I also found myself shooting low on fast paces hoser stages where with a 15 yard zero I get away with being a little faster and still putting down 2alpha.

CMC triggers have been known not to work with a lot of builds. They are great triggers but they will also smack the crap out of your firing pin, check how much force that hammer is throwing, it's likely to break FP's pretty quick. My gunsmith has only been able to get a cmc trigger to run 100% in one of his builds. In a 5.56 platform it runs all day long, I understand your running the taccom bolt, but meh... I'm leaning toward it's the trigger. POF makes a decent trigger for a reasonable price, if you can't spring for the 24c or eclipse etc.

I tend to like the gun around no less than a 137-142pf, It feels better to me anyway. I think I would like a light projectile "95g" running 1400+fps, but going to tinker with that later. I've finally got a load that the dot barely moves and it actually tracks straight up and down go figure. I've been through TG, WSF, n320, autocomp, hs6.

I had my Eclipse double on my yesterday shooting through a high window without the gun shouldered, 144pf ammo.. First time it's done it to me.

Damn I thought you loved the elf!

Whelp... my hiperfire stuck on me a few times again today on hoser stages... Unless im blatantly slapping the trigger when shooting really fast there is not enough positive reset to feel, think I'm gonna try an elf ar9 match trigger. sigh!

I see, I just guessed based off of our past results 4.9g with a 100g bullet should have put me in the ballpark... the second string was close'ish with some 1300 +'s in there.. I'm gonna bump it up to 5.4 and see where it's at an back down if needed. It all depends on how much I'm getting per grain of wsf velocity wise which I'm guessing is going to be sub 30fps. Worse case it's a 140pf and I dial it back. Maybe the cases won't look like black soot... Now, should I go back to 1.100 OAL, I really hate the idea of going lower than that.

So I'm bumping up the powder charge then and things should seal up nicer and maybe straighten itself out? I shot 25 rounds and it fed/felt great. of course it was only 120-124pf and I'm typically around 140 so it would make sense. I'm going to get some PD 95 grain bullets and continue to experiment, with the results yesterday I believe my powder lot to be good, and I also believe that I should be able to get the load working. Thanks everyone.

I used mixed brass, I'm really not into precision and getting single digit SD's, while it is nice I don't believe it's necessary for our sport. However when I'm getting a 200 FPS spread on loads it boggled me. These are typical results with my chrono I'm generally fairly close to single digit SD which is ok for what I'm doing. I would agree though some chorono's would provide better more consistent results.

These were some 100g plated non concave .356 dia Berry's bullets. I don't like plated, and I wanted to play with 95g bullets but this was found local for cheap so I figured Id do some testing with it. So results for today. 100g Berry's plated flat base loaded to 1.065OAL- 4.9g WSF " Fired 5 rounds before putting anything through chrono 10 ft from muzzle" FPS: 1st string: 1190, 1173, 1248, 1176, 1232, 1166, 1246, 1176, 1228.. So, I'm still seeing a 73 FPS ES, Moved chrono into sun, was maybe slightly closer to chrono. 2nd string: 1243, 1272, 1256, 1309, 1279, 1150"not sure there but it felt weak", 1302. still a 50 something spread but not terrible. 125g Coated with 3.8g WSF @1.140 1050, 1059, 1049, 1055, 1035, 1070, 1040, 1042, 1054 SD 10, 131.4PF 125g Coated with 3.8G VVn320 @1.140 1112, 1121, 1100, 1105, 1106, 1123 SD: 13 139PF It didn't pick up all 10 shots Note on the 100g light bullet loads. Cases WERE SUPER BLACK... Like way worse than you would see with TiteGroup, it was basically just a black thing the size of a piece of 9mm brass. So... Not sure, not sure... Accuracy was spectacular. Pasty size group @ 20 yards.