Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About pmiya

  • Rank
    Looks for Range

Profile Information

  • Real Name
    Paul Miya
  1. Make sure the 1/2 moon shaped retainer is tight.
  2. It's been a while since I had a Dillon swager but as I recall you had to make sure that the notch in the handle is oriented correctly.
  3. I have to agree with RIggerJJ, it is not a pain to change calibers on a 1050. I use a Super 1050 to load quite a few different calibers, rifle and pistol. I only have one tool head and just have the conversion kits for the different caliber. When I set up to load a caliber I will generally load at least 1000 rounds and often it is quite a bit more. When I change calibers it doesn't take that long and it gives me a chance to clean and lube the press.
  4. Make sure the cartridge spring (paper clip looking thing) isn't interfering with the cartridge.
  5. If you are using the primer pocket swaging at station 2 you should feel when a spend primer is pulled back into the primer pocket. The bottom stroke will feel different and shorter than normal when a primer is smashed by the swaging rod.
  6. It does stop the case from wobbling when it comes to a stop at that station. I use them on the 2 stations following the powder drop. I'm using a Mr Bulletfeeder after the powder drop and it has greatly reduced the spills at that station. I use it on the next station just to keep bullets from falling off the case, it wasn't really a common occurrence to have bullets tip over but now it's not occurring at all. I was getting a lot of spills when loading 223 and 308 with H335 or WC844. These spill stops are the last thing I've done. I have used the zip ties, strips of fabric softener sheets in the powder measure and grounded the machine to a wall outlet. Since doing all of these things the powder spills are greatly reduced.
  7. I made something similar to the spillstops using a piece of a fairly dense foam rubber a little less than 1/8" thick. I used a 45 case to punch out the disc and then a leather punch for the center hole. It's been working on cases from 9mm size to 308.
  8. To add weight I wrapped some lead wire around the clear plastic part, just above the brass. I don't remember where I picked up the wired but it's about 1/8" thick and I have another roll that's about 3/16". It's solid lead and the thicker roll was used as fishing weights.
  9. Clear primer cover is good in theory but not practical. When I'm operating the 1050 things are moving too fast for me to see the primer.
  10. When I'm cleaning my cases I can hear when there is a cracked case. There is a distinctive "tinny" sound. When I hear that I will check the cases in smaller batches until I find the cracked cases. When I'm picking up my brass I also give them a quick once over. I randomly gauge my loaded practice ammo as I'm loading them. When I'm loading if the case feels different when it's being sized I will check that case.
  11. The RMR new design has a longer bearing surface with a shorter ogive. I had to reseat my first batch that I had loaded to 1.075" overall length. At that length the bullets were fully contacting the rifling in one of my pistols. Basically they didn't pass the "plunk" test in that pistol.
  12. If you're using a Dillon low powder sensor you'll need to modify it when you use the Perfect Powder Baffle. You have to shorten the threaded rod on the sensor. I had to use a die to add threads to the rod then cut it to fit.
  13. I've had to loosen the adjusting screw for the "nose guide". If it's too tight it causes the nose guide to create a very small lip that the dislodge (kicker) arm can hang up on. If you look at your picture the area I'm talking about it at about 2 o clock in the red circle.
  • Create New...