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About pmiya

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    Paul Miya
  1. If you are using the primer pocket swaging at station 2 you should feel when a spend primer is pulled back into the primer pocket. The bottom stroke will feel different and shorter than normal when a primer is smashed by the swaging rod.
  2. It does stop the case from wobbling when it comes to a stop at that station. I use them on the 2 stations following the powder drop. I'm using a Mr Bulletfeeder after the powder drop and it has greatly reduced the spills at that station. I use it on the next station just to keep bullets from falling off the case, it wasn't really a common occurrence to have bullets tip over but now it's not occurring at all. I was getting a lot of spills when loading 223 and 308 with H335 or WC844. These spill stops are the last thing I've done. I have used the zip ties, strips of fabric softener sheets in the powder measure and grounded the machine to a wall outlet. Since doing all of these things the powder spills are greatly reduced.
  3. I made something similar to the spillstops using a piece of a fairly dense foam rubber a little less than 1/8" thick. I used a 45 case to punch out the disc and then a leather punch for the center hole. It's been working on cases from 9mm size to 308.
  4. To add weight I wrapped some lead wire around the clear plastic part, just above the brass. I don't remember where I picked up the wired but it's about 1/8" thick and I have another roll that's about 3/16". It's solid lead and the thicker roll was used as fishing weights.
  5. Clear primer cover is good in theory but not practical. When I'm operating the 1050 things are moving too fast for me to see the primer.
  6. When I'm cleaning my cases I can hear when there is a cracked case. There is a distinctive "tinny" sound. When I hear that I will check the cases in smaller batches until I find the cracked cases. When I'm picking up my brass I also give them a quick once over. I randomly gauge my loaded practice ammo as I'm loading them. When I'm loading if the case feels different when it's being sized I will check that case.
  7. The RMR new design has a longer bearing surface with a shorter ogive. I had to reseat my first batch that I had loaded to 1.075" overall length. At that length the bullets were fully contacting the rifling in one of my pistols. Basically they didn't pass the "plunk" test in that pistol.
  8. If you're using a Dillon low powder sensor you'll need to modify it when you use the Perfect Powder Baffle. You have to shorten the threaded rod on the sensor. I had to use a die to add threads to the rod then cut it to fit.
  9. I've had to loosen the adjusting screw for the "nose guide". If it's too tight it causes the nose guide to create a very small lip that the dislodge (kicker) arm can hang up on. If you look at your picture the area I'm talking about it at about 2 o clock in the red circle.
  10. I just measured a new factory spring. It is 8" and the housing it 2.25". I have an aftermarket spring that is probably 2 inches longer and the housing is also longer. The factory housing is black and the aftermarket I have is silver colored.
  11. Run one case at a time. See if you can isolate if the problems are limited to one station.
  12. Your tool head should not be angled towards the back. On my 1050 the tool head is a very tight fit to the ram and it remains parallel to the shell plate during it's entire movement. I would check to insure that the tool head is "bottomed out" on the ram and the securing bolt is tight. When I tightened the bolt I do it when the tool head is at the bottom of the stroke.
  13. I use a Super 1050 for a variety of calibers: 223, 308, 9mm, 40 S&W, 10mm, 45 ACP, 44 Spl/Mag. I only have one tool head and it takes me about 45 minutes to swap from one caliber/primer size to another. It's a little quicker if using the same primer size. I use a lot of surplus 308, 223 and 9mm so it's nice to have the swage capability. When I first got the 1050 I had a number of 5 gallon buckets of 308 and 223 to process. When I load I will set up for one caliber and plan on loading at least 1000, preferably more, rounds of that caliber to make it worth changing over. When I process the rifle brass I usually tumble the brass, size, swage and trim/size (using a Dillon RT1200). When I reload rifle I use a spacer between the lock ring and tool head so I'm not fully sizing the brass. I'm also using a Mr. Bullet Feeder that helps speed up the operation. What slows down the process is filling primer tubes so make sure you pick up plenty of extras. Last week I was loading some 380 on my 550 and it sure seemed like a slow process.
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