cjdaniel78

I do the hair dryer too, just never tried it on wood. Should stick good, since it's designed for wood skate boards.

Awesome. Did you seal the wood after sanding it, varnish, poly or leave it bare?

I presume you wrapped the tape under, to help hold it in place?

Ben flat out told me that during his class in May.

No one else??

Do tell

You'll be happy you did. I was at the class with Fullauto_Shooter. It rained like crazy, and was still worth it, soggy clothes and all.

Brian, as an aircraft mechanic and hobbiest hot rodder, that completely hits home. The dread of the task wastes more time than the accomplishment of the task itself. I often find myself curious if other professions share those thoughts: the 5 Star chef driving to work on Valentine's Day; or the equipment operator grading a building plot. I can say I have learned there is a direct corelation with the number of times the task has been performed vs my enthusiasm. The more the new has worn off, the greater the potential for dread and defeatisim, prior to start.

I took it and the Skills and Drills class. They are both worth it. you will shave years off getting better, vs trying to figure it out on your own. You'll have plenty to work on after the class.

I presume the allen is stripped and not that the screw is just spinnnig because the threads are stripped. Try gluing the allen wrench in the screw. I've had this work on stripped allen screws in aircraft instruments. I've also had it fail. If it fails, drill.

Unfortunately my 5 year old tried to fly and landed on his face 4 feet later. Nothing broke or major, but now my Range Officer is going towards medical co-pays. CT scans are $$$.

I have never heard of high left being caused by a flinch, so either it is really sighted high and you are pulling left or it is really sighted both high AND left. Was the original owner left handed? Perhaps he was pulling low right and adjusted the sights to compensate. Either way, adjust them. The reason is more of a curiosity than a determining factor.

Buy your grip tape from Amazon. Jessup original is $6 shipped, for a roll long enough to cover a skateboard. It's the same material some well none manufacturers use.

To me, this is the minimalist, thus quickest.

I have a couple of questions that relate to Transitions and things that influence transitions. One is physiological related and one is hardware related. Quick background, I am not yet USPSA Classified (not yet a member). I did get Sharpshooter in IDPA at my first match ever, over a year ago. I took a class with Ben Stoeger in May and he rated me as B Class, which seems to hold true for where I normally wind up on the score board. I know I have plenty to work on with entries and exits, but these two issues came up in the last week or so and I am looking for input against my hypothesis. Physiological Last night in dry fire I was running some transition drills. I normally draw and have my arms at full extension or elbow lock. As I was running these drills slow, I discovered any body movement was translating to the sights. I know, I know, duh moment right? The locked joint is effectively solid. I pulled my gun in slightly by bending my elbows and noticed that any small gyrations of my body did not affect the sight picture as much. The front sight seemed to float undisturbed. I am not too worried about recoil as I shoot Production and frankly I have never bought into the whole upper body press against recoil. It seems not locking out the elbows leads to more fluid and smoother movement. For those that are more experienced, does this seem off base? Granted, I havent tried in live fire, yet. Hardware Related I have been experimenting with this for a week. My Production gun is a CZ P-09, which is polymer and weighs 27 ounces empty with no mag. My 1911 Range Officer weighs 40 ounces by comparison. I have been running standing transitions (3 targets in standard 6 reload 6 layout) with both, from low ready, to take any holster position influence out of the equation. What I have discovered is I more accurately stop on the A zone with the 1911 as compared to the P-09. It seems like the P-09 requires me to use muscles to stop it where I want, where as the 1911 seems to stop smoothly on command. The P-09 definitely moves quicker, but that advantage is lost when I have to adjust the aim point onto the A zone, where as the heavier gun requires less tweaking at each stop. This has me thinking, based on the way I move (technique?), I would be better with the heavier gun. Anyone else noticed this before? Thanks. Any input is appreciated

Yes. You could grind some off the tang for ESP, but it would no longer be USPSA Production legal.

Do the Stock I and Stock II have the same mag release or is the S1 shorter?

The CZ P-07 is also great. I carry it in the winter, at least until I get my PCR proven, then the P07 will get a light for HD.

Did you change the slide stop on that Lim Pro?

Maybe order a 1 foot piece of brass bar stock from onlinemetals.com, grainger or MSC. You could try tungstun, but you need a way to cut it. I've done it with a die grinder and cutoff bit, but it wasn't quick or even easy.

What about spacers in the bottom of the plug? 4-40 washers?

Yes. I either took 0.018" off or there is 0.018" remaining, I don't remember. I measured I with a dial caliper then took it off slowly too keep it square. About half way I reassembled it and checked, then went some more. Took about 30 minutes from start to finish.

If the SO or MD is sharp, they'll put you in ESP because you modified the frame.

I cut the hooks on the factory hammer when I installed the CGW parts. I could probably go more, but I'm happy with it now.

I actually don't care for the checkering on the comp frame. Not sure I really need the rest, once a Canyon Creek magwell is installed.