Handloader109

RIA is behind on a lot of guns. Selling faster than they can build. Soooo, I'd expect you to be a while getting your gun. Even longer if you get them to customize/tune. There has been some further discussion recently on the 22tcm forum, www.22tcm.net. Might can ask over there also. Couple of the moderators have connections.

Powder valley has a bunch o pistol powders in stock tonight. 800x, 700x, hs6, promo, wsf, H110, if you are looking, jump now

I'd save my money and use the Lee dies. I have the powder check and I find myself looking in the case most of the Time anyway. If you are just loading 9mm,I'd skip it. If you move to rifle reloading, it would be good idea. A spent primer catcher is simply and almost free using a drilled out 45 caliber case with a hose added. Light is nice, again pretty cheap to do yourself. I'd get the press, set up and then add stuff at your leisure

For any of you guys that have a RIA 22TCM 1911 or rifle, there is a new forum for you. http://www.22tcm.net/ Hope to see you there too.

Take it real slow, I found I created a mess when I first started working with mine. Good you have a few cases primed. Start with those. Keeps powder in case to start with. Later just deprime and prime to get used to the force required. Watch powder before adding bullet. Slow is good. You are still way faster than the ss press. Enjoy

It isn't your die as much as the extreme flare. Don't blame Lee for your setup. BTW, I use Dillon on my 650xl, but loaded a bunch on a cheap Lee press with Lee dies quite successfully. And my Dillon dies are a long way from mirror finished. Just saying :-)

I've had mine for a while and in going from a single stage Lee, I quickly found that I needed to slow down and get it right. I ended up priming a few hundred rounds then loading them. Saved me making a mess with powder. Good luck you will enjoy

This I like it

No real problem, I used alox for just a bit as I was indoor shooting and they smoked badly. Went to powder coating and they work well.

My 2013 model is the lighter color. No color was added to the plastic, looks to me like a fiberglass filled nylon. Colorant just makes things weaker. Good idea to leave it out of the mix. Glad they got you up and running again so quick.

I think at $425 you did good. I recently traded a AK47 plus accessories for a 650xl. I estimated that the new price of the 650xl was over $1200 with casefeeder, strongmount, two sets of dies, powderfeeders and some other accessories. had 9mm and 223 both of which I use. Gave me about 3000 9mm cases, 1000 9mm rn plates bullets, a tumbler and a separator, all Dillon. I had $700 in the AK and gave him almost $200 in rounds. I feel like I stole the reloader, but we both were smiling. If I had paid cash, I'd have given him less than the $900, probably $800 would have been max.

Shouldn't be the cause, and you've been using the same feeder for 15yrs,but do you have the operating arm turned the right way? Enough tension On th The spring? Enough Powder in Hopper? Nothing in the throat? Just saying

You guys have it WRONG! Smokeless powder in our retail containers and primers in same retail containers are classified as Hazardous Materials, NOT DANGEROUS MATERIALS. A BIG difference. You DO NOT NEED the 3 day class to ship Haz Mat materials. You DO have to be an approved Shipper. This approval comes from either Fex Ex or UPS depending on your selection as shipper. Now this does not mean that Joe B can go ship a box of powder or primers. If you have a business that you ship Fed Ex with, I would inquire with your local rep as to what they need to approve you to ship Haz Materials.

I've been using my 650xl for about a month since I traded for it. Found a couple of modifications that I have added. Light bar to help see in the cases. Then added a shelf to hold the allen wrenches and the primer tubes and the powder checks. Then changed the two screws holding the powder feeder from allen to wooden knows. Changed out the powder adjustment screw to a home made micrometer. Was a pain, but it works. Changed out the round knob to a turned wood handle. Way more comfortable to use than the knob and cheap. (woodworking is the other hobby)

My 650xl handle knob sits about 2" below my shoulder. I'm 5'8" and can load standing, the handle ends up at elbow extended and maybe could be a half inch lower before I would have to bend. I load most of the time seated once I get things set up which works out ok for me. I WANT to make or buy a roller handle, as my palm hurts more than my shoulder ever does. My chair is a cheap one with hydraulic cylinder that I can move up and down to vary the height. In order to reduce your pain, you need to vary the height of your shoulder. Do loading both seated and standing in a session.

I had a couple of turned primer and a couple of twisted the other day. I'm new to the Dillon and was later having problems with getting primers to load into the tube used to pick them up. I have 5 tubes. Guess what I figured out? The Yellow cap was not on the tube all the way. A primer could drop between the tube and the yellow cap and turn over. Make sure that your caps are all the way pushed onto the tube.

I have a .45 Colt case and it seems just a bit too small to slide betwen the rails and actually sit there well. I can shove the nose end between the rails, so the primer end won't be snug enough. I've read of a perfect size rifle casing working but cannot remember which. (and I wouldn't have one anyway) I can see how this would be a big upgrade for people. I deprimered a couple hundred cases to see how the new workplace feels and I managed to get 3-4 spent primers not in the cup and it was already half full when I dumped it. If you loosen up the two screws, slide the case into the slot and then tighten up the screws, the case can't budge.

Heck, I have about 7 feet of that left! Just used some for a light underneath for illuminating my cases. (Still like to look into the case due to past history and my audible alarm isn't always working. I think I'll see about doing the same. Thanks for the pics!

I'm new to the 650XL, traded for it recently. Loaded about 500 rounds of 9mm so far. And I am actively making a few alterations to make things better and easier. I WANT a roller handle. I haven't bought one, don't know which (Dillon, or the one you list or one I make myself) will be the one I choose. #5 is worth a few dollars, I spent less than a dollar for two feet of 1/2 ID clear tubing and drilled out a 45 colt casing. Fits into the slot perfectly. Have to put a clamp (I used a piece of wire) to keep hose on. Some others have used rifle casing which might be better as you could use a smaller hose and slide on the case. I'm NOT paying $25 for the kit. #6 Lights. You have a hole in the toolhead. You can set a cheap Harbor Freight (or other flashlight) and it will work fine. I had some LED strip lights I had purchased last year through eBay for a couple of $ to use on another project. roll of 10 feet you can cut into sections. Cut three sections about 6" long and using a discarded wall wart charger, soldered the wire to the strip and attached to a small strip of aluminum (light strip self adhesive back) that was shaped to fit under the top bolt of the case feeder. Cheap, cost me some time and I can see into a case easy. #2, ball may or may not be worth it, I cut my spring already and put a HDPE bushing I made under the bolt. Helps but I still have some jerkyness. and may buy #3 don't know if it will help. I hate losing powder due to motion. No idea on #1 probably won't. I just finished fabricating a micrometer powder measure. I had a straight micrometer I picked up a long time ago and never used. I don't have a metal lathe, but I used my wood lathe and files to shape and drilled/tapped the micrometer and a screw to adapt. Works well, and I DO use 4 different powders and five different bullets for my 9mm and this makes life easy to change between the bullets and the powders and keep track of settings. I Would have bought If I didn't have something I could make work.