recoilchamp

Agreed - the adjustable backstraps help a lot. Though I would note that the Apex flat trigger extends the finger reach needed - I use the small backstrap with the flat trigger and a medium backstrap with the factory one (and probably the apex curved ones).

Does anyone have any options for a softer recoil pad on the magpul stock? OEM one is still pretty stiff.

I've noticed with light buffers like my TACCOM carbine recoil system, I can see bolt bounce if I record my bolt closing in slow-mo. Replacing the buffer with a regular one with loose weights mitigates this. Is bolt bounce only an issue for this like full auto fire? Could it cause accuracy issues?

BTW, I think unless you're using LRBHO (last round bolt hold open), bolt catch breakage shouldn't be an issue. Spacer prevents the bolt from traveling back far enough to have too much speed when it hits a raised bolt catch. Stainless steel bolt catch shouldn't be any better at this than a regular steel one. Just a cosmetic difference really.

Yup, great stuff! YouTube would be a lot better - easier to watch and find later.

Check with Floyds customs, seems like the go to place for m&p milling work. Most common m&p mods (that can be done relatively easily at home) are an Apex trigger and barrel. Extended magazine release is also cheap and easy and several options are available.

Don't see them doing that anytime soon considering how long the 2.0 took for relatively minor changes. You can do a trigger guard undercut yourself and stay legal in USPSA CO and Prod currently.

Anyone tried this red dot? Looks like it'll fit with the included plates, has a large window (about halfway between a vortex venom and an SRO), and goes for around $290:

The area that requires fitting with the locking block is the pad on the underside of the barrel. If that required no filing for the slide to close it might have been too loose to start with.

It's probably either the striker spring is too weak or the striker block isn't completely moving out of the way when the striker is released. First can be fixed by replacing the striker spring. I did end up putting an extra power striker spring in mine for harder primers. Second may require adjustment of the trigger bar loop. Not sure if the striker assemblies are swappable between the slides, but if they are that could also help you isolate the problem. Can also do the pencil trick of putting a pencil in the barrel and pulling the trigger to see how far it goes when the striker hits it, and compare along the different guns.

Right, that's expected behavior and indicates it's being held securely. I just noticed on my 1.0 the front locking block's tolerances weren't good enough to do that and I wasn't getting great accuracy. I was wondering if that might be the issue on M1A4ME's 2.0.

Just curious, does the slide close easily with the apex barrel in the 2.0? Or does it need a little push to close it completely if you rack the slide in slowly? I wasn't getting great groups in my 1.0 with the apex barrel and it closed without any resistance. I replaced the front locking block and now it feels much tighter and the resistance I expected is there now. Haven't been able to get to the range to confirm any improvement yet, though.

Anyone seen the Lucid Litl Mo red dot in person and seen how its window size compares to SRO / Romeo3 Max? Seems like a potential budget option. Fits Burris FF3 mounting plates, side-loading battery:

Got my carver tungsten guide rod and it is thicker than the standard guide rod, and so takes a different spring as you suggest (wolff vs the flat wire). Also came with a coupon code for 10% off carver products: BOBBY10.

2.0 also has an extended steel chassis for a more rigid frame. Not sure if that affects recoil feel, and maybe matters primarily if you're adding stuff to the picatinny rail.

Will it fit on the M&P CORE?

Your best bet might be tapping a hole and adding something like this: https://www.egwguns.com/mini-paddle Not sure how well the plastic on the stock release will hold up, though. Also one issue with the extended paddles is that your left hand can more easily accidentally hit the release.

Does the SRO overhang over the barrel loaded chamber indicator help protect the lens from gas debris buildup? I'm finding I need to wipe the lens on my Vortex Venom every other stage.

Whoa, what's with the trigger guard and picatinny rail? Did you add some kind of putty for weight? Is that USPSA legal for CO?

This youtube video says it'll work, but you'll need to replace the slide stop if you want to be able to sling shot the slide:

Alternatively you could get a 1.0 5" slide (I see them on ebay), though it looks like if you want to be able to slingshot you need to change the slidestop:

While here I was with a lightweight carbon fiber, JP is adding weights to their PCCs: Any alternatives to this if you don't have JP handguard? I see MDT's M-Lok weights out there, but $60 for it seems a bit much:

Did you find the brass basepads helped mitigate muzzle flip?

Now that the weight limit for CO is raised to 59 ounces, what mods are there to bring the M&P (24 oz) in line with the weights of something like the p320 x5 legion (43.5 oz)? I see Carver's tungsten guide rod at 2.5 oz, and Taylor freelance brass base pads at 5 oz - anything else? Also saw on Facebook someone talking about making a metal backstrap adding 7 oz - not sure that's legal?

The carver one is heavier (2.5 oz vs 1.622 for the glock) and designed for the m&p: https://www.carvercustom.com/ecommerce/carver-11247.cfm