brian45acp

Cool. Sounds like I made a good choice. I realize RMR is the popular dot but for those competing I don't hardly ever see them. I asked around and the Docter worked over seems to be the best. Thanks guys

A weld is what I was hoping for. Seems anything is possible then. I would happily pay for a weld and proper milled surface. It seems their multi surface mill is the best idea. If for some reason the specific dot I have coming in fails me I'm not screwed with a slide good for only one dot. I just don't get how they can tap threads on top of the slide deep enough. The multi cut also looks squared off in front of the dot with some space left in front for different length dots. This would be best since I heard an exact fit can actually cover up the auto dim sensor on the dot.

Yes. I actually didn't notice the first time because a thin sliver of metal shaving filled it in. The second time I changed The rear sight that shaving dislogded and its right in the crease of the dovetail where the sharpest edge of the sight base slides into. Further milling I would imagine completely exposes that hole. I don't think milling forward of it would provoke enough area to mount a dot. The milling would have to extend rear of the dovetail as well

I feel the same way but the shooters in the know seem to feel dots just aren't strong enough. I was happy to hear about Docter USA doing this service because for $125 it seems worth the insurance. I asked many people about other brands but it seems slide mounted is what kills just about all of them sooner or later. I intend to try carry optics on my sp-01 and possibly if I take really well to it have one milled on my 75 compact for CCW.

Yes but my fpb hole is already exposed and I can see it when the rear sight is removed. They emailed me a few weeks ago saying the easier option was a mount. I guess I need to call and ask so I better understand this

it has a battery underneath it doesnt it? I figured it would have those posts that stick up like the adapter I got from springer precision. I guess I would need to see the milled surface to understand what it looks like. I will call CZ custom tomorrow. If you say the exposed FPB hole is fine because its covered by the sight then I trust you know. My Docter sights are on the way from Docter USA and being bullet proofed so I dont have them yet to see them and understand this fully

I currently have an order in with Docter USA via Dean. It was suggested to me this is the best place to get these and have them bullet proofed for slide mount application. Does anyone have any experience with Docter USA and this bullet proofing service? I'm looking forward to them on my CZ. Currently I'm trying to see if milling is an option because of the FPB holes being partially exposed already in the rear sight dovetail.

I wondered that. I would assume there is a mounting plate over it anyhow for the dot to ride on.

I figure that but the FPH hole is already exposed a little in my 75 compact. I can see it with rear sight removed in the crease of the dovetail. So more milling at the same depth as the dovetail would certainly expose the hole completely

So I have taken to the Red Dot and would love to mill my slide. On my CZ 75 Compact with the rear sight removed I can see a small area of the FPB hole exposed. I called Cajun and they said they see this a lot on CZ. So it seems this isnt a defect but rather just outstanding CZ quality, lol. He did say, Sir its a CZ! which I understand and still love these guns. So my question is how then would it be possible to mill the slide for a Dot? I am not sure if buying a new upper is a good idea to preserve my matched serial numbers before butchering a slide but I dont even know if anyone sells an upper. Any ideas?

Removing tight sights using pusher worries me that damage will occur to rails of the slide. I haven't had an issue getting a perfect centered sight using punch and vice. Good luck measuring a rear sight for center anyway. I tried everything and cz doesn't have a flat parallel area on the slide to use as a reference. I typically put a flat panel along the side of the slide to measure from that flat to the rear notch but it won't work on a cz so I eyeball it and it's dead on.

Just an update. I got the MBF and its no comparison to the GSI. No more issues and the machine just cranks out ammo with no jams. I lost money on the GSI selling it but I am happy I made the switch.

I practiced and now dont use pushers any more. I want to feel the sight with a punch in a vice so that I know I properly fitted it. A pusher just shoves it in there and I cant feel it move. Look up Dawson Precision on youtube and he has great vids on fitting dovetail sights. Simply drifting your rear sight is going to be simple but the video will explain a lot.

6 of mine have that as well. I rounded that edge just a bit as suggested here to help keep rounds being bumped forward in the mag as it cycles.

I had to have Dillon send me a new plate after about a years use. It was odd but it just got to the point the primers weren't moving. I polished the plate and it got worse. I then realized the bead blast on the surface is what gives the primers traction from sliding back as they move up the ramp. So my new plate came and had a burr on the entry hole right where the plastic bushing goes. With a dremel and polish wheel I chamfered the edge of the hole and it's now perfect.

Don't chelate any brain cells

Slamming mags in to auto forward drives me nuts. Why do people insist on doing this? You're hitting it so hard that even when the mag is full the retaining plate jumps out of the witness hole and all the guts fly out.

The 75 compact is nice to shoot because steel frame. I have it and a P-01 as well as rami and sp-01. I would use the heavier gun for competition and being no decocker it has a nicer trigger

9x45 had arsenic in his blood so we confirmed his wife was trying to off him as well. Poor zoomy's wife is slow killing him, lol.

The threads I started are about this as recent as 2 weeks ago If you had other issues then it wouldn't be the brass like it was for me. My findings were the brass being out of spec.

By the way I confirmed all of which I found with the extractor removed to be sure my findings were correct

Sure try Hi Tek and then smell the chemicals coming off then ask yourself what it is. Or like me, ask the owner and creator of the product and watch what an A-Hole he is to your request for info. I gave up and my health is more important then saving a few bucks on crap bullets. I shoot JHP so that the base of the bullet is not exposed lead because an FMJ has exposed base and once exposed to the powder ignition will still cause the lead cloud. Zoomy: how are you still alive? Holy crap man the highest we heard of was 70 and that dude was smelting lead. You must have lots of lead stored in you bones. The body doesnt know what to do with it so it stores in the bone and is released over time. Its said that taking calcium prevents this from happening. If the bone is happy with enough calcium it wont try to absorb anything from the blood stream. What symptoms are you having from such high lead levels?

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9x45 and I roll together at the matches. Trust me it's the length of the brass. Look up my posts and read them. In short the length of just the brass must be .754 or less. If more then .754 say .756 you chamber it once or twice and it dings the case mouth back enough to be in spec then would later chamber. Get your calipers out and measure the brass but not the cartridge length. Load mags and hand cycle the ammo through the gun. Don't touch the trigger! Find the one that hangs the slide out and measure the brass. If you have a bullet puller use it and measure the brass length. This has nothing to do with extractor or bullet etc. it will pass the plunk test but won't chamber in the gun because the brass length is too long and makes the rear of the case stick out too far and the barrel can't push upward and lock into the lugs of the slide Research my recent posts

There was a post on here where CGW said it happens to where that screw gets messed up and milling is required to remove it which is doable but if loctited then its not. Honestly mostly what I use is permatex non hardening gasket maker fro automotive like head gaskets etc. It simply fills the threads and is sticky enough to hold sight screws etc and it stays put. In that link it even says to not over tighten that screw so I think some of the permatex would be great for that. I guess I wont be so worried about taking it out then. I have a nice quality RC flat head driver with a wide and flat head that fits the slot quite well. I wanted to tension my mag release spring a bit since on one of my Sp-01s the mags dont click in as well as my other Sp-01. They seat fine but its not a nice snap sound once the lock. The mag release is being pushed out the opposite side of the frame ever so slightly and I think one leg of that spring is pushing more toward the right and side pulling the release inward a bit. I think if I were to tension the spring to push the release outward it would draw in the opposite side and then be a more positive snap when the mag is seated.