brian45acp

I never bought those grips but I saw you guys talking about the issues of messing the threads up on the frame. Its funny that people still want to replace the OEM grips. I tried once and sent the VZ grips back. Nothing beats the stock grips for shape and traction

Yeah I realize the same thing. I just hope I didnt mess the hole up pushing the pin partially out the top. The pin comes out the bottom much easier and I only just bought the stake tool so if it were going to walk out it would be downward and it never has. I will just use acetone on the top of the hole to clean it and put a dot of loctite 620 just for insurance on top of that pin. On my ccw gun I did stake the bottom again lightly. What ever the hell that punch is made of is seriously hard steel. It just needed a light tap and pushed a very little amount of metal over the edge of the pin hole. That should be all thats needed to help assure its kept tight.

I never had issues with mags not dropping but I am more worried about the thing folding up in the mag well and stopping the gun. But when I saw the gaps I wondered why people never spoke about that. I just worked over my slide stop lugs with a file making sure they dont touch the bullets any longer. CZ likes to move the rounds forward in the mag as it strips a round for feeding. Stronger mag springs and a polished slide disconnect rail helped that but also the slide stop makes contact. I havent seen anyone talk about that and it seems some slide stops are now cut way back from the factory but mine were not. I actually prefer to file them just right so that there is more material to engage on the mag when empty so it will engage and lock the slide back.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F33CNSG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Use a razor blade to trim and match the length of OEM screws. I have used these for over a year and think I only replaced them once. I get them to the end of being tight and snug them up just a little. They never back out and the threads look sharp and perfect. I dont worry about the dreaded cross threading of the frame holes any more. These are most valuable on the alloy frames. I was pissed on my p-01 I sent to CZC for the SDP package the holes to the grip panels CZC make were off center and because the screw was put in anyway the threads were messed with a little. Steel screw in alloy threads is bad juju. I ran a tap and cleaned them up then went to these nylon screws and never worried again.

I found the correct thread pitch and bought nylon screws for my grips. No more concern of screwing my threads and ruining my frame. Grip panels don't need to be wrenched on and just a few ounces of torque keep them secure. I run these nylon screws on all my CZs. No issues of coming loose because they bite into the threads

I finally got 2 of these. 1 for my compact and 1 for my full size. I thought part of the benefit of the brake was to close off the area where the hammer spring is. These CZC are narrow and there are huge gaps that crap will certainly collect in around the hammer strut and spring area. Everyone seems to love these so I guess its not an issue but I also never had an issue with the OEM brakes and they cover that area completely.

Im in california. Im lucky enough to ccw let alone even try and mess with a trigger on a carry gun. Pretty much here I think its best to do everything as clean as possible.

I shoot matches with a stock sp-01 because I ccw a 75 compact. All triggers are stock and I have no issue with them as is. Its amazing what fundamentals do more over then a tricked out trigger. I only really notice "nice" triggers when I am checking them out on the bench but during the course of fire I dont notice much at all. I would love to have super nice triggers though but since I CCW my CZ I dont want to get used to a race trigger and then carry a heavy double action. I figure if I can master that stock trigger in the match then it will feel the same and prepare me for my ccw gun. My goal here is a tough spring that will last. I decided just to keep the cajun floating pin and the CZC New spring which isnt lighter but rater more stout.

I found the roll pin. I swear it was not on Cajuns web site so I emailed them and now its there. Cajun has the best idea here which is a standard split roll pin which will absorb shock and not damage the firing pin but still be stout enough to not break I did see that about the dry firing but I dont dry fire and still my OEM pin was dented pretty good just from normal use which isnt very much on my carry gun.

Damn. That was my concern and I ordered 4 of those trigger springs. I might just order stock trigger springs and change them every so often. I did get the upgraded mag brake finally. It just hardly rests down in that slot but I guess thats all it needs to do, it cant really go anywhere. Its funny how between cajun and CZC there are things I like from each and things I dont like from each. I have items mismatched from both of them in my guns, lol.

very nice job man! I love my compact. How did you change the vials in the sights? How did you buy just the tritium fiber rod? I actually gave up on night sights and went all fiber optic. I figured there is about a 1-2 hour period in the day where tritium is an advantage and beyond that its not useful. The fiber optic allows me to shoot so much faster and pic up the front sight quick so I went to that on all my ccw guns.

https://cajungunworks.com/product/75321/ I ran across this and I love how innovative the cajun guys are but I am not so sure I would want to alter how the gun was meant to work. I have his floating trigger pin but opted for the CZC trigger spring since its more stout. I installed them but I dont like how they sit crooked. The stock leg of the spring that pushes on the trigger is straight to where the CZC has a bend and angled to perhaps sit more center in the trigger. This causes the spring to twist and sit crooked. I just ordered the cajun trigger spring to see how it looks but the fact its lightened worried me.

I dont know what happened to the roll pin Cajun sells but I previously got a couple of their split roll pin that is tempered steel. The stock roll pin is rolled sheet metal and said to break. I pulled mine and sure enough they are nice and dented and some more hits would certainly break through that first coil of metal. The other option is the CZC solid pin. I am freaked out about tapered pins and dont like the idea of messing with the diameter of the hole any where on the gun. Their trigger pin even is tapered and thats why I went with the cajun floating pin instead. My question is I would like the CZC pin because its solid but they say the hole may need to be reamed and they sell a reamer. I never used a reamer and not sure how that works and it doesnt sound like I would want to enlarge that hole anyway but I wanted to see what you guys are doing with that.

My sp-01 I cant see into the FP hole but my 75 Compact I could actually see in the crease of the dovetail it was exposed already. Thats the trick with these narrow slides, you need to mill deep enough to create width. Talking to a guy at the match yesterday I figured something else out that might help others. He said he had a very odd malfunction where the FP would not engage. He took it all apart and cleaned it and it worked but he didnt know why. When I first removed my 75 compact sight there was no hole exposed. The second time this little flashing of metal rolled up and there was the hole. Had it fallen inside the hole I would have had the same problem as he did. So for anyone who runs across this I bet its a let over piece of metal when the gun is new that falls in there.

My slide is with CZC right now for an exact cut for a docter dot. I chickened out at first but now am committed. It's been there about a week so I will post pics when it comes back. One thing to note is the FP block spring will now be exposed. My plan is to cut shim stock as a base plate to provide something solid for that spring to press on. I ordered some .0125 stock and it seems thick enough but also thin enough and it's plastic. If it's not stuff enough I will do the same but use metal shim stock. They say it's not needed but the underside of the dot is hollow and this spring needs to press on something so I feel better about adding the shim

Looked them over again. If the hole is tapered there is very little material at the top. The serrated top strap cuts away part of that hole. The extractor pin is just barely below flush. Not much there at all to be tapered. I'm not debating putting it through the top because I don't plan on it but looking at the hole there isn't much material there to where a taper would be effective. Any way, good discussion

Good info. Hopefully it's fine. I got it part way out the top and realized it was too tight. This is why I asked the question because I figured there was something more to it.

I don't think you can swage a solid steel pin. I don't plan on removing the pin through the top and the time I tried I got it part way and realized it was much harder then downward. Your idea of a taper hole is all that does make sense though. These guns freak me out with all the hidden features like this. My P-01 I did the same damn thing with the pin that holds the sear cage in. It's not tapered but has a relief cut on one side and not the other. I do remember one pin being tapered but I forgot which now. Rowdy had the best idea for the extractor which was a roll pin. I haven't had any issues though so I got 2 new pins and a staking tool. I will replace the pin and stake the hole and try to not take it apart until spring or extractor need to be replaced.

Pour bullets into the bad and go to a match. That's how many

I think it's harder because the poly coat finish is inside the hole near the top. I've read people say that hole is tapered and others say the hole has a step in it. There is no step for sure because that would be easy to see. If the hole were tapered then I would think the pin would be as well and it's not. How could you push a parallel pin into a tapered hole?

I really doubt that hole is tapered. I asked CZC and they didn't think so either. It is harder to remove toward the top though so who knows. On one of CZs I started that way and realized it was harder so I went back downward

Ready tactical copied kytex. The design sucks for durability. I tried to CCW them then used them at an idpa match. I kept pulling a mag and the one next to it would pull out and drop on the ground. I figured I would add a piece of electrical tape inside to tighten the fit because I loved how compact they were. One day I came home took it off and belt clip part was partially cracked and peeled back. I must have hooked the bottom on something and it pulled up. I don't use them any more and for sure not CCW

The trick is the metal this tool is made from is much harder then the steel of the gun. What concerns me is that you can't keep staking the same part over and over so it needs to be used a few times for the life of the gun and no more. I'm not sure why you would remove any of those parts to do a cleaning. I shoot it full of Kroil or ballistol and then air gun it out into a rag then repeat. It comes out spotless.

Sounds good. I bought tool anyway. Like you said I like it done right.

Mine aren't tight in 3 of my CZs Cajun said don't oil it and I don't but I do clean it with Kroil. I will start using a cleaner and leave it dry. He said it almost never needs to come out. The tool just line it up with factory mark and give it a tap. Just need to deform the metal a little to secure the pin. It doesn't move on its own anyway so not much stake still be needed.