brian45acp

I don't think it's rocket science. I just wonder if hitting the same mark is ok or not. I try not to remove the pin but every 5k rounds or so. I flex the extractor by hand and shoot Kroil in there then air gun it out until starts looking clean. My guns all have factory marks on both sides of the hole like they positioned the tool over the hole. I imagine just a tap on either side of the hole is all that is needed

I will call Cajun tomorrow and see what they say about the stake tool. It seems just a little love tap with the special factory punch should put things back in order. I just need to know if the mark should be in that same spot or a new spot. I don't know what it's made of but it must be nasty. They always said CZ steel is tough so for this tool to make a mark into the steel like this it has to be crazy hard

Double post

Sounds good enough. Mine has never moved either but I just striped my slide and sent to czc for mill work to mount a dot. This is when I noticed the pin came out easily. I just checked my 75 compact CCW gun and it's the same. I guess that spring tension is all that is needed to hold it. For insurance on my CCW gun I will use my stake tool I have coming to add a little interference just to assure it won't move

I ordered it. Who here has actually used one? I would like to know the best way to use it. Do I stake the same spot the factory did? I've searched all day and can't find anyone who used the thing. Cajun gun works says to restake the trigger bar/ mag release screw and the extractor pin hole. I've seen others say use loctite but again Cajuns web site say that's a bad idea and staking is best. Someone has to have used this thing but maybe because of the cost I'm the only idiot who bought it, lol. I like having proper tools so I don't mind the price so I can do this right. Any tips would be appreciated.

So you are using actual roll pins? what size and where did you get them? I dont want to jack up the hole in the slide and thats my concern in terms of which direction the pin should come out. As far as I can tell it doesnt matter despite what some posts I am seeing online say. Some think the hole is tapered and I really doubt that. I think the hole near the top has some poly coat finish in it which is why the pin is harder to remove going out the top. Well, I bought the $48 tool and will just give a light hit to the same area the factory did. It shouldnt take much to hold it in there and as of yet I havent seen it move so I think just the spring tension on the extractor keeps it where it should be.The stake should just be insurance On CGW web site they say to stake the pin in the tech notes. There must be a reason for all this but a roll pin makes great sense. I just dont know why they didnt use one vs the solid pin. Maybe the roll pin isnt strong enough but I doubt that since its just holding the extractor in place.

Everything I read says push it out the bottom. It will remove the stake so I am going to buy the tool and just give it a love tap to hold it in place. Some people have said that hole is tapered at the top but as far as I can tell it isnt. It is however more difficult to remove pushing it out the top but I think thats because there is some thick poly finish in the hole. I just wonder how many times it can be staked in the same mark on the underside of the slide with out causing an issue? I imagine it only needs to be removed a dozen times over the entire life of the pistol so it shouldnt be an issue. The stupid tool is so expensive but it seems that its needed to do this properly. On the cajun web site it says to restake if you look up the extractor pin. Under the tech notes it calls for restaking. I am just worried that if driven out the top it ruins something if in fact the hole is tapered but I am not sure. I got the pin partially out then realized it was too stiff so I drove it back out the bottom and intend to keep removing it out the bottom from now on.

I ccw the 75 compact daily and it is heavy but I love it. I have a p-01 and had another that I CZC did the SDP package to. I was uneasy about the light trigger on the SDP and sold it. The other issues that bothered my were the alloy fram having steel screws in it. I had a couple issues with the grip screw threads being boogered up because they are only alloy and with a steel screw bad things can happen easily. I actually was able to find the thread pitch size and I ordered nylon grip screws which I use on all my CZs now so I never worry about killing those threads. I am in california so my decision for ccw typically surrounds which gun to carry that holds 10 rounds. Choosing a gun meant for 14 rounds sucks because I dont get the advantage of weight and size for more rounds. I still choose the 75 compact and the difference in weight between it and the p-01 is exactly 1 full 10 round mag with 124grn bullets. So for the weight of a mag I figured it wasnt enough difference to give up the durability of a nice steel frame. I also dont like the decocker and would just lower the hammer all the way down anyway. Having the hammer at half cock just allows more lint and crap to get near the firing controls. For me the steel frame 75 compact and manual safety was best. The other thing about the all steel frame and slide is that it feels very well balanced. The p-01 feels like a glock with being top heavy. The negative to the 75 compact is no light rail but I dont ccw a light on the gun anyway. So just some more things to consider for you.

Are you guys actually buying this stake tool? It's $47 so it must be made of captain Americas shield or some crap. I imagine it's nothing more then lining it up with the existing mark made by the factory and wacking it with a hammer. Any tips on using it? I thought maybe for the extractor pin if a slight bend were put on it then there would be some interference to hold it secure. That or a bit of 620 loctite at the end before its taped in flush. I'll buy the stake tool if it's necessary but I never seen that thing talked about on here

For the 75 series I figured this was easy enough but perhaps I have been doing it wrong. The area that is staked I just now figured maybe it would have been a better idea to push the pin out the top to preserve the staked area. When I did try to drive it out the top it was much harder to do so I drove it out the bottom instead. I always pushed it out the bottom and back in from the bottom and never had an issue. I do notice now that the pin goes in easily with a little effort and I can push it in by hand and tap it with a flat punch right near the end of its travel. I measured the pin and it doesnt seem to be tapered so the stake must be all that kept it from moving downward but I worry that now I ruined the staked area which is why it moves in so easy. What do you guys suggest? Should I buy the stake tool and restake it? How should I be removing and installing the pin?

awesome thanks. I think I am going to just sack up and trust CZC that its all good.

I had one more thing to consider. Those of you with a mount or milled setup how do you clear malfunctions? Is a mount or milled stronger then the other to allow for holding the dot for racking the slide during a malfunction? Looking at the slide racker CZC mount I can see an advantage to having those wings for something to hold on to other then the dot. On the other hand they sure look like they can get in the way especially for a carry gun. I am not sold on the idea for a ccw gun just yet but if I decide to use a dot on my ccw gun I want the strongest setup. I just am not sure if holding the dot is a bad thing or not for emergency racking the slide. I shot my sp-01 with the springer mount at yesterdays match and really had fun with the dot. It will take a few matches to practice with it but I love how accurate you can be. It was especially great for the swinger target.

The cgw sights are perfect for 124grn on my 75 compact and sp-01. 147 seems to always be an issue. I bet Cajun guys can take care of you and get a taller front of you call in

CZ custom told me $500. For that price I will buy another gun and use it for parts. Where are you guys getting slides for less?

I figured as much. When I did my research asking old school shooters are the match none suggest RMR yet it seems to be the "thing" likely because of Suarez and the stupid co witness stuff all over the net. The Docter is supposed to be the ONE. Dean from Docter USA says they last a long time. I asked about them on the Open Gun forum and seems people have them slide mounted since early 2000's. This is why I dont think I am going to mill the slide right off the bat. I already paid for the mounts so I might as well use them and see how this goes before cutting on my slides. I can deal with a learning experience gone bad on a dot purchase but if the slides are cut that would suck worse.

Makes sense. The Docter is supposed to have the battery last 5 years always on. The thing that sucks is the multi cut for Docter doesn't invoice RMR. If for some reason the Docter failed they cover it no questions asked 5 years but if there really was an issue I would likely go RMR. I am sure I would be fine but need to just for for it. Once my dots arrive I will make the leap

I guess so. I have friends telling me not to mill the slide so I am torn here. I need to get my dots in hand first then I think I will use the Springer Precision mounts I already have for them. Once I run a few matches and know they are good I will send the slides off. I guess the issue is dots fail but I have the Docter dots coming and they are being bullet proofed by Docter USA whom is Dean Makkos. He says they wont ever break and will literally be bullet proof. My brain doesnt work that way and I envision milling my slides and later finding the dots fail or something else and now I am SOL. I was going to just buy a dedicated upper but its $500. A new gun is $650 so why bother. I have 3 each of the Sp-01 and 75 Compact because I live in california and you never know when the next gun will be off out stupid list. CZ guys said that uppers are so much money since CZ doesnt want to sell parts they want to sell guns. For the $150 difference I figure you could just have an entire gun for parts, lol.

That looks nice. So 2 locator pins in front and the mounting screws are enough to hold it? I know the plates specific for m Docter dot have 4 posts it Keyes up to. Once my dots arrive I will get a better clue to where the fpb spring will touch underneath the dot. That's the only part I don't understand. So some of those holes are tapped for screws I assume. Thanks for the pics. I was scared to send off the slide but that looks nice

Ahh I got it now. Then that makes more sense. How does the FPB spring work? If it rests beneath the dot that would be the part I dont understand. Saw the PM thanks for the info.

That looks scary but I guess it's proven, lol. Doesn't look like a multi optic cut is possible. I really only want it for the Docter sight any how. With the exposed FP channel and all all those multi cuts I don't see fitting that. Is the extra lightening suggested to off set the weight added by the dot? I would love to see a top plate over that. The battery and all is underneath and needs to press on something. I guess since this is new to me it's hard to vision how this all goes together. Does the slide get refinished after this? I suppose I can just copy this pic and send along with my slides for it to come out the same

I called but was just told by CZ custom that they let the machine shop figure this out, lol. He said we make it work that's what we do. Fair enough I suppose. He did say possibly they would just shorten the fpb itself if necessary. I would rather that hole be covered though.

Stuart: I will be sending in my slide. I would love to see that picture. If it's suggested to lighten the slide to off set the weight of the dot then I would like to do that also. If I had the picture to print and send along with my slide that would be great or if I referenced you maybe that would work as well. Please let me know

Dean said that is the one to get and then he does his service to it. He must know what he is doing. I can't wait

Search Docter USA he is the only one who can get them apparently Tino2212: That is good to hear. Dean said the same thing. He chooses the Docter 2 over the newer models and then does his bullet proof package on them. It is the militart grade one and I guess you already found it to be robust so the additional work he does should really make it a tank. Dean told me it would not fail and according to his website there is a 5 year no questions asked warranty aside from glass breakage.

I will be calling tomorrow. I would love for you guys to do the work for me. What ever needs to be done I'm sure you guys can make it happen.