brian45acp

I use M Pro 7 cleaner and Sili Kroil. Just spray the gun down all over the internals with the slide and grips off. Air gun it through and then again with Kroil to leave behind a small amount of lubrication. I remove the slide a grips is all and then air gun both through and it comes out looking brand new. The top end you can get to easily so thats not so hard but I am not about to keep taking the frame apart each time it needs a cleaning.

I just got the springs too and love them. Just a bit more resistance vs stock and they work great. Honestly I have no idea where my thumb lands after the beeper but I should stop and look. Its amazing how we do so much of this an auto pilot after a while.

I went from 19 to 12 then last reading less then a year ago 8. I changed to JHP and got rid of moly bullets. I havent tried coated bullets yet but 9x45 had his levels drop so we know they are safe at least for lead. What ever else those things emit with the nasty smell is still a mystery. D-Lead wipes between each stage after touching my mags or re setting steal plates. Just be very aware of what you touch and use those wipes. For indoor shooting you are SOL and need a mask. I go indoor couple times a year at most and use a mask for 1 hour that I am there. It comes out grey on the outside and white on the inside in just an hour.

Friend gave me tuncated cone bayou in 124grn and they fit the chamber nicely. The elongated cone and tapered sides bring the shoulder way toward the base and for my CZ barrels they fit well. I have not shot any but dropped some of his in my barrels to check. His are loaded long and just hit the rifling but not much. Bringing them down to 1.100 area would be perfect I am sure. I am still trying to decide moving from 124grn JHP to bayou but cant decide. My switch was more for health reasons then anything. Blood lead levels are a real problem and I know most have not taken the blood test to see what they have. My bullets are Zero 125grn JHP and need to be under 1.100 OAL to work. I was at 1.098 and a few would go on the plus side and hang up during course of fire. I just shortened them back to 1.090 so they vary on the plus side to 1.098 at most now. I considered reaming but would rather leave the barrel stock

9x45 I was tested and they said you are my dad. I want back child support for 18yrs and then I can buy what ever I want. He is my range buddy and uses these bullets and why I asked the question. He likes them and I'm on the fence. As long as my bullseye powder isn't and issue with using them I wouldn't mind. He gave me a handful I can try so I will do that since I guess it's the only way to know. So what's the magic with blue bullets? Are they lead safe? You guys won't know unless you check your blood lead levels yearly otherwise we are simply talking about which bullet performs well. My biggest concern is the lead levels. Most shooters don't have clue, or don't want to, as to their blood levels and its a serious concern we all over look. So I know for sure they don't emit lead like moly did since 9x45 checked his blood levels and we confirmed this. I guess I should just go for it and make the switch. Seems performance is good and its a matter of preference at this point

Many guys use these at the local USPSA matches and I know that because I smell them. The price is attractive vs my JHP which cost me $30 more per 1k. I have developed a very accurate load which I love using bullseye powder. I am thinking of changing over to these coated bullets but have read fast hot powders may cook the coating off etc. I am not wanting to change my powder especially with the current power availability issues. Do you guys feel that these coated bullets have any less accuracy or other draw backs I should consider? The coating can be scratched off quite easily with anything but some how they leave the barrels clean and most importantly my buddies blood lead levels dropped after switching to them from moly. My main reason switching to JHP was because blood lead levels is a real issue for those of us who shoot a lot and it was a matter of health so the cost wasnt important. I just have no idea what the smell is from these bullets and it concerns me despite the advertised "non toxic" coating.

Not sure how many of you guys fit sights to a rami but let me tell you, it sucks! Getting them off was heck and because there are no flat sides it wants to twist around in the vise. I had wood blocks all around it but still a pain. Then centering them there is no real good way to use calipers since again the sides aren't flat. I can't get a reference point using a blank against the side then measure with the calipers to a specific point on the sight itself. Anyway, eye balling seems it's a must for this slide and fitting the front sight only took like 8 times, lol. Was so worried removing too much off the front sight so had to go slow. If any of you guys have tricks let me hear them. For now the install looks good minus a couple scuffs on the poly coat which seemed necessary with all the beating that took place removing the original sight.

At all times I feel it because it doesn't matter slide lock or not. The top round must pass by the sear cage for the mag to seat. Mostly I hardly ever slide lock but obviously at home with the slide locked back I was able to watch this happen and figure out what was causing it.

Every CZ I have which is 2 sp-01, 2 p-01, and a rami all had the same issue. The rim of the top round in the mag hit the face of the sear cage at its bottom edge if the mag is inserted in such a way its angled back more then forward. There is a bit of play in the mags as they enter the magwell and about half the time my top round would contact this spot so hard it pushed the round down and you could watch it pop back up and move forward a bit as it passed by the sear cage. I had found that breaking the edge with a strip of 400 sand paper then finishing off with 1500 paper made a nice smooth bevel and now the rounds contact but much less and they slide right by uninterrupted. The paper was maybe 1/4 wide and 6 inches long and I ran it back and forth while holding the ends allowing the paper to bend over the edge. Before doing this mod I was able to feel this quite a bit during mag changes and I initially thought it was the mag catch the mag was hitting but it wasnt. Well, anyway I havent seen anyone suggest this and perhaps I am an idiot and shouldnt have touched this part but I have to say it works great for me now and my rounds arent getting snapped around in the mags from hanging up on this edge. These are both after pics. The before pic would have shown the case rim catching about 50% more then what you see here.

Those are the mags I have. http://czcustom.com/CZ75magazinesprings5.aspx These are the springs I have been using and I love them. I did have to take a flat head screw driver and open up the retaining plate a little. Our retaining plates dont look anything like the regular ones for the high cap mags. Ours sort of hook on to the spring coil vs having that eyelet that you thread the spring onto. I havent taken my mags apart now in 4 matches and no failures to speak of. I did leave the mags loaded full over night the night before I first used them.

Doesn't look bad. I'm paranoid about the solid pin enlarging the frame hole. The stock pin isn't in tight and rotates as well with trigger pull making me think the floating pin is perhaps better idea Thanks for the pics

That's the part that might drive my OCD crazy is if it's off to one side more then the other. Anyone have a pic of it? Funny I called today and asked about it. I asked if they would trust it on a CCW gun. He kept asking "are you serious" lol. I thought he was talking to someone in the shop. He was so funny and obviously passionate about his product so much that my question came off redicolous. It seems you guys all really like it and I have yet to see anyone suggest the czc tapered pin. Maybe that's a clue to me but I would love to see how much it settles to one side vs the other. Perhaps as I mentioned polishing the area the spring rides and keeping a drop of oil on it will make it happy.

thanks guys. I really like CGW he seems to really know his stuff. I am going to call them today and ask for a couple tips and make my order.

Maybe some high polish where the sprig rides and a drop of oil would also help keep it from walking. Seems some guys say it walks and most say it doesn't. What about the taper pin? I would rather know the pin is in solid and I have 2 sp-01's so 1 is a back up in the car. I would just grab it if I had a part failure. I just worry about over sized pins enlarging the hole on the frame. Maybe I just answered my own question, lol.

I asked this in someones thread so I figure I should start my own. So the 2 pins I know of are the CGW floating pin and the CZC tapered pin. A walking pin would drive me nuts but there must be a reason people are going crazy about them. Why not use the tapered pin? What concerns me about tapered pins is the pin deforming or enlarging the frame hole. I am not sure thats a valid concern or not but I would imagine a solid pin could do that. I dont care for the lighter trigger spring and would use the CZC for the most solid reset possible. If the floating pin is the best option could it be used with the CZC trigger spring?

Why not use the tapered pin from CZC so the pin stays put?

Thanks. 1500 sand paper is my new toy, lol.

Not bigger just round. There was flashing around the hole so the sand paper cleaned it. No way 1500 grit could remove enough metal like that. It does look bigger but with the FP through the hole it's just slightly larger then the tip. I did zoom in more on the after pic so it appears that way as well but compared to my other CZ's the diameter is the same in person vs that pic. If the hole stays buggered up like that its much easier for metal to fail along the edges that aren't chamfered. The hole should be smooth and no edges or sharp points. I suspect the breech face was cut after that hole was drilled and left behind some flashing of metal. My other Sp-01 looks almost as bad but not quite. I plan to smooth it out as well. These CZ's are great but I swear they need to change their tooling more often. Looks like the metal was cut out with a chisel.

if the original pin and the floating pin are meant to rotate how can the tapered CZC pin work?

spent a little time on it. Rolled some 1500 sand paper and twisted it tight. Tied a piece of fishing line to it and drug it through the FP channel and worked all the edges of the FB hole back and forth. Looks much nicer now and should keep the edges clean from wanting to burr or chip.

Just noticed this and not sure what it looked like new. Gun has less then 1k rounds in it. My 3 other CZ's the pin hole looks more round and normal but those are all new guns

Thanks guys. The bulge isnt near the base of the brass its directly at the base of the bullet which is about half way in the body of the case. I am buying once fired brass 9mm that has been cleaned and polished. I could opt for the de primed and roll sized brass for a bit more money. zzt: You are right that cartridge if spun a different direction would feed. All the rounds chamber check and pass the barrel test but under normal feeding from the mag the issue presents itself which is odd to me.

I run the sp-01 stock minus the sights because I actually like the gun as it is. Having said that the very stout sp-01 recoil spring I just realized is more forgiving of ammo issues. What I just discovered was that after buying my Rami the gun itself is less forgiving of any ammo discrepancies and my reloads need some tweaking. I already figured out very quickly CZ needs shorter OAL based on bullet profiles. What I now found was that some of my ammo is producing a bulge in the brass right at the base of the bullet when its seated. The bulge often times is worse on one side then the other. The round would not feed in my Rami under normal firing conditions but on my SP-01 it would. However if I tried to slowly chamber it in the sp-01 it would hand up just the same. Pressing the rear of the slide would shove it in though. The really strange part is that I saved one of these rounds until I got home to inspect it. It will pass the barrel test dropping in and spinning and fall back out. However it wont feed from the mag into the chamber. I cant figure out why this is other then perhaps since the round is being fed at an angle the bulge may cause it to bind and not allow the slide to move all the way into battery. Also once the extractor has a hold of it its not going to enter the chamber perfectly straight like it would doing the barrel drop in test. My only plan is to add a bit more bell and crimp. I have no perceivable bell on my brass before the seating station and I think because of that the bullet may get forced in at an angle and cause the brass to stretch creating that bulge. These CZ chambers are picky for sure on reloads but factory ammo they seem to not be picky which is a relief for my self defense ammo. Any advice? Thanks

I been running the 5% extra power springs paste few matches and love them. I havent taken my mags apart since the switch. I just knock out any dirt/sand and wipe the mags off best I can. Before the switch it was like the mag springs would go dead despite being new mags when just the smallest amount of dirt got in them. The full length springs work great. CZ does the same thing was my understanding. Meaning they use the full capacity mag springs in the 10 rounder mags which in theory should make the springs extra power. All I know is the 5% springs for the full capacity mags is the sweat spot for us 10 rounder users. For my Rami I have no idea what to use so I think its going to have to stay stock springs. I havent seen an extra power sub compact spring yet.

I only got to run 30 rounds that day before the next squad came. I ran about 200 this weekend though. I have no issue shooting it with the stock flush mag and pinky off the bottom so I am not going to mess with it. CZ did tell me to only use the Rami mags and this weekend I had a nose dive with the compact mag so I am not planning on using anything but the Rami mags.I think what may have happened is with no sleeve over the extended mag pressure from my hand caused the mag to crook enough for a failure. The guys here say the Rami mags have a thicker base plate which work with the sleeve extension so if I use that sleeve on the compact mag there will still be a gap. The gun shoot so accurate and I love it. It is even more picky on ammo and now I am needing to tweak my 1050 to produce ammo with no bulge around the base of the bullet. I had a few that wouldnt chamber and when checked on sp-01 they did the same so its the ammo for sure. I think under normal operating the sp-o1 long slide travel was hammering the round into the chamber but on the rami the slide stroke is so short its less forgiving. With a box of factory ammo and about 40 duty rounds the Rami had no issues. I shoot the Rami so much easier then the shield so I plan to kick the shield off the permit. I just ordered a 75 compact because I like it retains the steel frame. I plan for it to be my main ccw and the Rami for when more concealment is needed.