Shmella
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Posts posted by Shmella
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I'll play. This. Steel pt evo grip, deltapoint pro 2.5 moa dot, long dust cover, shortened slide,2 port sv comp with three holes in the barrel. 9major and I have done the unthinkable so far and only ran blue bullet coated 125s so far at 170pf (800 rds) with no hiccups and so far no leading I have noticed. The plot thickens.
This is a heavy gun btw at 53oz empty.
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I don't have video to prove it but this was my fastest so far. 1.48. Hands were at sides though. Consistency is my problem. When I consciously try to shoot faster I get trigger freeze. Then sometimes I can just let it rip. I had a 1.58 today right before this run.
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19 hours ago, Sarge said:
Thanks. I'll do some research.
Just checked my 140 sti mags and they do the same thing yours do. I've ran them in two open guns and a limited 9 and have never had a ftf with them. I just loaded them to capacity and will be running them in practice today again. I also tuned them myself per Dawson's instructions with their kit. I've put 800 rds through my new open gun so far with these mags without issue. Something tells me the mags aren't your feeding issue but you can never be too safe I guess when it comes to wanting to eliminate all possibilities. Im going to continue to use these how they are until the give me a reason to mess with them more. Good luck.
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2 hours ago, Sarge said:
That does make them pop up.
So I dont remember where I heard it but I remember seeing somewhere that way of stripping the rounds is how you should check to see if your feed lips are tuned correctly.
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1 hour ago, Bamboo said:
Sorry to hear wideners is getting out of the primer/powder biz. They were always a solid source. Maybe it is only temporary.
From the Email I got today it sounds Permanent. Long story short cost wise its becoming too expensive for warehousing and constant regulation changes to make it worth it for them I guess.
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Just a thought, try to do this and see if it makes any difference. Try to push the round to the very edge of the feed lip right before it pops out. Very slowly, once it is barely hanging on to the end of the feed lip quickly push the round out the rest of the way instead of slowly pushing the round out from all the way back like you did in the video. The way Im describing(or trying to describe) will better simulate a round being stripped off quickly just like it would during firing and the remaining rounds should pop up (hopefully) like they would if you fired the rounds out of the gun.
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9mm or 38SC? if 9 spacers in the mags? Are they glued in place if so?
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Wideners will no longer be selling powders or primers. Seems like once an item sells out now it will not be restocked.
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I can't find any powder on their site. I am pretty sure I saw a bunch of powder there a couple days ago. What am I doing wrong?
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I can't tell where you're describing the brass specs are. On the gun after firing? You sure it's brass and not powder? Did you notice it after letting the gun sit for a little while? I noticed some flakes that looked golden in my gun and figured it was Unburnt powder that changed color somehow.
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10 hours ago, nbot said:
That's really nice. How is it treating you?
So far so good. Got 800 flawless rounds through it.
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Does the hammer fall when you pull the trigger or is the hammer following the slide when closing? If you are pulling the trigger extremely slow and know the hammer was cocked back and falls and nothing happens then I have no idea whats going on.
I had a hammer follow issue where the hammer was down and no primer strike and it was trigger component related. But it would only happen when pulling the trigger really fast. Had the trigger job redone and problem went away.
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13 hours ago, 57K said:
With most domestic brands of cases, you will find that they are pretty similar in thickness. One obvious exception being Blazer. Foreign brands are often thicker and that's about all I look out for. With S&B brass, GFI which are the same as Fiocchi. I load them with domestic.
If you have some different brands on hand, measure case-wall thickness right at the case-mouth within say 1mm to get their average thickness. It doesn't take long to figure out which cases do what. So long as the brands are similar in case-mouth thickness, they really don't have to be segregated afterward. WIN, Rem, FED, Hornady, SPEER, CCI, Starline, S&B brass, not brass coated dteel, GFI and Fiocchi are pretty close to the same. PMC can be thick and thin and inconsistent. Aguila, PPU and others can be ..001" thicker or worse which when doubled adds an extra .002" to case-mouth dia.
I care more about the rim being consistent for reliable feeding and extraction. Specifically for 9major im looking to clean up ejection for reliability. I honestly dont really care about case volume for a consistent load, I just want reliable function. Thanks for the list though, I recently picked up a bunch of Mixed brass that is 80-90% GFL and found that to be the worst brass to run through my 1050 so far. Inconsistent decapping and primer seating has been a nightmare, I will now look our for fiocchi to avoid too.
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I like mine over a traditional cmore. Sits much lower, looks cool, and surprisingly I really like the smaller 2.5 moa dot. I have done the same as above so far. Turn it on at the start of a match and turn it off when it's over.
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I have some casting voids like that on my 1050, not where yours is and I dont remember where mine were exactly but I didnt think too much of it.
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Anyone have a source for Once Fired Federal 9mm Brass?? I want to get some already sorted but cant find a source.
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1 hour ago, Maximis228 said:
"That might be a little stretch. I have only heard of 2 total people with DPP's issues and one of them pixilated so the dot wasn't round. Nearly every RTS2 had multiple issues. I now have 5 DPPs on open guns and PCC rifles and have yet to have an issue in nearly 100k rounds in one year. I also know of at least 20 other DPPs being used without issue. So no, they are not a dud. "
Did you read the thread?
Cant say it enough. Read the thread. That is the point of the forum. Its basically all covered here.
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1 hour ago, RippSpeed said:
ok I came really late to this thread ...
Is the DPP good to go ??? Is it reliable... I was hoping RTS 2 was reliable but have sent it back to cmore ever soo offen to get updated was a totally bullcrap !!! I dont want the same fiasco with this one...
I really want to update from a 90 degree because I have experience the dreaded blind spot too many times...
And I was thinking of going with the 7.5moa Chevron versus the smaller 4moa ... What are you guys thought on that ??? Anyone running the 7.5moa chevron ???
And lastly; I would prefer to run the cheely mount because I might have case ejection problems ... My ejection is irratic but I have never experience a stove pipe with the 90 degree cmore... ( ps. I'm running an aftec )
lol read the thread. There's 12 pages which pretty much answers all your questions. This thread steered me toward the DPP vs the rts2 and while I only have put 500 rds on the DPP i really like it so far. and I have the 2.5 Moa dot..
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19 hours ago, Edge40 said:
So basically unless your 44 years old now and had a high capacity competition rig when you were 21 you probably don't have legal equipment to shoot the match. I bet thats a very small majority of people shooting this match. I could be very wrong but I'd be surprised. By the way when was the 2011 introduced to the market?
Not in the year 2011
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https://ultimatetargets.com/products/idpa-target-holder-18-free-s-h
I picked up a few of these because I thought they were reasonably priced and im lazy. I have access to a full metal fabrication shop and I can weld. I have the material to make more exactly like these and will be using these as a template. Also the more you buy from the link above, the less they cost per stand.
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7 hours ago, SlvrDragon50 said:
I don't really know how to speed up transitions at this point since my practice range is indoors with lots of restrictions on shooting.
I guess next week I'll go for speed and see how my score changes.
You can speed up your transitions significantly in Dryfire without ever firing a live round. The very first thing I noticed the first time I practiced transitions in dryfire (the first time I really did a drill in dryfire other than a draw or a reload) was how useful dryfire really is and it changed the way I looked at dryfire. it sort of clicked for me and made me realize "oh this is what they mean by dryfire"
Get a sight picture on a target and transition to the next and get another sight picture. Work on getting that transition as fast and consistent as you can. You can quickly improve the time it will take to do this and not have to waste rounds speeding up your transitions. Let your practice be in dryfire, work with a timer to track performance, and confirm you can do it with live rounds at the range. If you havent bought Ben Stoegers dryfire book, do so and read it. That book will explain how to become a better shooter in dryfire surely better than I can do. Hope this helps.
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49 minutes ago, echotango said:
On theirs it does. I have both Ti and SS Cheely comps. Sticks to the SS but not the Ti.
Alrighty there we go. Problem solved, take a magnet to the comp.
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1 hour ago, echotango said:
Easiest way to tell is to check with a magnet. It won't stick to Titanium.
Depending on what grade of Stainless it is magnets do not stick to certain types of Stainless steel
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If you're running 9major ejection patterns seems to clean up using same headstamp. I guess it depends on how much you care about the match, if it's a major match I would think sorting the same headstamp would be worth it for reliability.
Shoot mixed everywhere else and same headstamp when you want make sure you are doing everything you can do to ensure a good performance.
Open Gun Design Questions
in Open Pistols
Posted
I'm not really a huge believer in chasing ultimate flatness and shyed away from trying to achieve that, but I really like this setup so far. The holes are rather large and angled backwards. It feels pretty flat but I haven't done any load experimenting or slomo video to check it. I just loaded up some 125s with 7.1-2 grains of silhouette and ended up hitting 168-170 pf first load testing so I settled there and loaded up a bunch more. This setup is relatively soft in the hand and is easy to track the dot and in my limited amount of time shooting it I like it.