Chills1994

It is a Sig Tac Ops. I have no idea what weight the stock recoil spring is. I also have no idea what weight the hammer spring is. If I switched to a heavier recoil spring, would that keep the brass from getting flung so far? if so, which weight?

I try to keep the brass separated, but there is only so many .30 cal ammo cans I can organize and put labels on. If this is just whammo blammo, then I would say you could throw all the various headstamps together. When it is just once fired and trimmed to 1.74” and fired a second time.... and reloaded... and fired a third time, chances are it will still all be under 1.76”. so in theory you could get by not running it through a trimmer. I call it Single Pass Rifle Reloading (SPaRR), because you use just one toolhead and run brass through in one pass. I use a Redding S die with a .245 neck bushing, and some other dies. if you have a progressive press especially with a casefeeder and Dillon Rapid Trimmer mounted on a toolhead, it makes your choices easier for whatever you decide as your modus of operandi. with those two or three items, you can just process brass in bulk quickly. And you can just treat everything like it was once fired brass every time.

Yes sir! That is the free market in its purest form. and like you said, not gouging.

Prices on primers could be worse:

I had a much longer, enumerated reply to you Sarge that would probably get me time out here but I will just give you the gist. 1. That is the advertised price. What he actually gets for them specifically and what two consenting adults agree on price-wise for an item or service in general is, frankly, none of your business. But most importantly, two consenting adults agreeing on a price does not equal price gouging. 2. It is an election year. It’s not like election day just snuck up on any of us shooters/reloaders. You should have been planning and preparing accordingly already. 3. About a year or two after Sandy Hook, I sold primers for $50 a brick. I had posted a classified ad here. And my ad received its share of gripe-ers too. The mods and admin here knew such a classified ad would happen again. They should have re-iterated the rules for the classified section a month or two ago.

I had thought of making some target stands in an H design out of steel tube that was rectangular in cross section...say like 1” by 3” and welding rectangular caps on each end. Then filling the inside with lead birdshot. Maybe drilling a hole big enough for a hex nut to be welded over...and the inside of the hex nut still big enough to accept a funnel. Once enough birdshot is in the tubes, then thread in a bolt to the welded down hex nut. The alternative would be larger diameter black gas pipe threaded at both ends. Weld the horizontal “bar” of the H to one black gas pipe (or both to form the H shape). Weld the furring strip pockets in place. Screw on two gas pipe caps, pour in lead birdshot, then screw on the last two caps. Of course, if you have to buy your own birdshot, that would probably be prohibitively expensive.

Yeah, I saw your design back in 2006 or 2007, and made my own knock off version. It is crude, but it works: If you are up for another engineering challenge, design a gadget that somehow goes on (Or in) a casefeeder equipped 650/750/1050 that keeps .223 brass longer than 1.760 inches from getting fed into the press. I am calling it Single Pass Rifle Reloading or “spar” . It is so much nicer/convenient to be able to run short enough .223 brass through the 650 in one pass and get a loaded round.

We are talking “H” style target stands, right? whatever you do...MAN! for Pete’s sake! weld the steel tubing or channel iron “pockets” for the furring strips on the inside of the angle iron “H” so that the stands can nest together or nest on top of each other. If you weld the pockets on top of the angle iron or in the angle iron, the stands won’t be able to nest together. That makes it a total PITA to store and transport. If you don’t mind lugging a cordless drill or impact with you, then you can use just lag screws or Spax landscape timber screws to secure the stand to the ground. Here is my old first person video of me using lag screws to fasten down one of my “V” target stands :

Colt Pro Shootout from 1994 which actually aired on ESPN : set up a par time for each stage. Their score is the number of plates they knock down in that par time. Obviously, for just a local club match turning it into a for real skins game like golf will probably be too much...unless you have a group of GM’s and M’s who are willing to put their money where there mouths are. If you don’t want to do the money/skins part for the “pros”, you could always create a “handicapping system” like shred posted above to separate the pros from the amateurs.

Double Alpha brass marker:

How about a stripe on the side then :

You guys don’t run a sharpie marker across your headstamps?

Which is why I bought my second 650 last year when I heard about the 750 coming out. My local club/range has an account with Graf’s of Mexico, MO. So I got it for wholesale plus a small gas surchage for the Graf’s truck dropping it off at the range.

To a degree, it depends on which caliber it is set up for and which dies will go with it. I highly doubt you will get your $1,100 back. ”In God, we trust. All others must pay cash.”

I have used regular lag screws meant for wood projects. Here is an iKam or PivotHead video I took years ago of me basically bolting my target stand to the ground (if I were to do it again, I would find a longer extension to go into the socket, and I would epoxy a rare earth magnet up inside the socket) :

At your local club matches, do the RO’s : A. Stay at the same stage all day long and run multiple squads through B. Stay with squads and move from stage to stage with their squads.

okay, why?

me? As the shooter that was just given a re-shoot, no I wouldn’t snitch anybody out over giving me a re-shoot and the RM or MD giving it the knuckle test to “calibrate” the popper. what I was saying... or rather trying to say was I wouldn’t be surprised if somebody on that same squad or another squad snitched out the RM or MD either to the section coordinator or NROI (for giving the reshoot and the knuckle calibration).

As a slight side note ...at a local monthly club match years ago, I shot a full size popper in the calibration zone, and the popper remained standing. I went to the RM/MD to ask for a calibration. He came over and gave it the “knuckle test” and said “Oh, yeah, that IS set heavy. RESHOOT!” The MD/RM made some adjustments to the popper’s bolt, and I re-shot the stage...flawlessly. Have any local club shooters snitched out their RM”s or MD’s for not following the proscribed calibration procedure?

What would it take for the popper f#%¥ing issue to be brought for general membership to vote on and bypassing the NROI and the BOD? full size popper doesn’t fall when struck in the “bulb” calibration zone or higher = a range equipment malfunction = automatic reshoot.

Well...yeah... some of us old school St. Louis area shooters thought it would be easy enough to catch a guy NOT pasting targets either (before it was his wife’s turn to shoot the stage) Another dude from southern Missouri used to load his magazine with a dummy round before each classifier stage so he would have to tap, rack, and bang his way to finish the classifier. I have seen people wrap the cable around the prop stick to take up any slack, so a popper would activate a swinger target sooner.

I used to be a MD. I also SO’ed and RO’ed national level matches . so, I have seen some things. oh, about 15 years ago, here in the St. Louis area we had a married couple who used to shoot with us. More than once the husband was spotted going through the motions of pasting targets when it was his wife’s turn to shoot, but he didn’t actually paste the targets if they were two alphas or two down zeros. I would assume the vice versa was happening when it was his turn to shoot. for the longest time I had this quote from the golfing world as my signature line here: “Competition doesn’t build character. It reveals it.”

we had a dude get busted a few years ago for tacking on two seconds to competitors’ times. so I wouldn’t put it past some other shooter going forward while pasting and resetting steel to give a few cranks to the popper’s adjustment bolt for some guy he doesn’t like...when it is his turn to shoot. or conversely, making sure the popper is set as lightly as possible when it is his turn to shot.

You can check out poppers ...if they are set heavy or light...when you go forward to paste targets and reset steel. If the popper feels "off” before it is your turn to shoot, you can always bring it to the attention of the CRO/RO.

I got popper f****d at the 2007 or 2008 Missouri Fall Classic. I was wearing a hat cam at the time and uploaded the video to video google. This is before YouTube became a thing. I started a thread about it here. And the video clearly showed 5 plus hits in the circular upper “bulb” part of the full size popper. Anywhooo... here it is 12 or 13 years later, and we are STILL talking about competitors getting popper f****d ??? (shakes head)