robport

It's not nice to be swept in any situation. I had a little different situation a while back that was "uncomfortable". I was down range resetting a nasty pain in the butt mechanical target behind a prop barrier when I hear, range is hot, eyes and ears, three shooters to the line. I was In the one small place (actually really small) that wasn't visible from the half of the range he had walked and checked. My voice obviously carried when I yelled "cease fire", which has a specific meaning (specific actions, more than stop what your doing) in our range. He wasn't anywhere near to starting anyone, I came flying out in the open before anyone got close to the line, and he would have seen me if he had actually brought a shooter to the start of the stage, but that RSO still shudders when he sees me. ...he also walks down range and around every prop now. Yup, good thing we have those rules...and RSO's need to be temporarily replaced if they have to go to the port-a-potty between stages...lol

I'm going to recommend we ban them where I shoot...of course that's inside on a concrete floor. I can't even imagine the type of skating accidents we would have in there...especially when the floor is damp.

I agree that that's the way the rules were intended and that's what should have happened. I just don't like the way it's worded.

"2.2.4. Handling a firearm except at the firing line. There are only three instances in which a firearm may be removed from the holster: 2.2.4.1. With verbal instruction from a SO. 2.2.4.2. While engaging targets in a CoF under the direct supervision and visual contact of a SO. 2.2.4.3. When in a designated “Safe Area”." I believe 2.2.4.1 is the key here. Many of the rest of them refer to "under supervision of" or "by direction of". This is the one that pretty much sums it up and is in the section where the penalty for an infraction is a DQ. They might argue though, that when they are called to the line to load, that they were under supervision of the SO and the implied direction was to load and make ready, since that is the next command in the series. They couldn't argue that, if doing it without being called to the line though. They could also argue that the beginning text in 2.2.4 is ambiguous "except at the firing line". That phrase should be covered in 2.2.4.2, so should be unnecessary. The fact that it is there, may be interpreted to mean that 2.2.4 doesn't apply at the firing line at all, so if you loaded at the stage, rather than as a group, it would be a decent argument because it's not written unambiguously. If you wouldn't disqualify someone for racking the slide to unload and show clear before being told to do so, which I've seen pretty often, then they might also have a point. This is just the opinion of a untalented competitor though.

"I would not worry about power factors in IDPA (there are none)." Not quite true. From the IDPA rulebook: " 8.3. Ammunition 8.3.0.1. Metal piercing, incendiary, and tracer ammunition is prohibited. 8.3.0.2. Clubs may prohibit cartridges that may damage metal targets. 8.3.0.3. All ammunition must use a single projectile. 8.3.1. Ammunition Power The goal is to compete with commonly available ammunition. The minimum power factors are: 8.3.1.1. SSP - 125 8.3.1.2. ESP - 125 8.3.1.3. CDP - 165 8.3.1.4. ESR - 165 8.3.1.5. SSR - 105" You will probably never get chronographed in a level 1 (local) match. Our club will chrono for level 2, especially if someone can't penetrate the reinforced rubber sheets on the bullet traps. They DQed one guy shooting a revolver last year, when the PF was too low. The last round, during the check, bounced off the bullet trap and hit the match director in the thigh. He was not amused...until later of course when he got to tell the story...

I had about 75 rounds before it jammed hard the first time, another 15 before it jammed the second time. I'm pretty sure that was due to insufficient blowback from the piston rings being aligned (because of the arrow shaped carbon deposit on the magazine tube). It ran about another 85 rounds before the magazine spring ate itself. On replacing that, I noticed this problem, while checking operation. That pin must have given up the ghost, at about the same time or while cycling "snap-caps" through it to check spring tension. I think we may be shooting the same matches (at NCRR?). You probably know me. I'm the one with the JM pro that keeps jamming...lol I've gone out twice, since getting this thing, and have only been able to complete 5 of 8 stages. This is my first semi-auto and at least I'm getting to know the internals well.

I was hoping I could still shoot our competition this weekend, so I figured I couldn't do any more harm by going ahead and seeing the parts they were sending me up close. I took pictures, and put them on photobucket, but couldn't figure out how to get them to load here. Referring to the parts breakdown in the owner's manual, I first noticed that piece 15, the rear shell stop had some silver colored debris on the top. On removal, piece 17, the front shell stop fell away from it. Piece 18, the front shell stop pin had sheared, both on the top and the bottom and what was left of the pin was stuck in the front shell stop. The ground face of the front shell stop still had casting lines on it and actually had a distinct felt transition on the face. It definitely looks like it should have been polished before the new one is installed. I'm not sure if that is critical, since it is hitting on a very small part of the circumference of each shell though. Anyway, I found at least one smoking gun, so hopefully the parts arrive soon. The front shell stop pin is toast.

I put a Wilson extended mag release on my 22 TCM. It took some fitting (filing on the surface in contact with the magazine followers) to keep from leaving a round in the magazine, but it was relatively easy. You just can't go too quickly and overdo it.

For follow-up, I reached Mossberg last evening (they called me back), and they said it definitely wasn't supposed to be acting the way it is. They are mailing me a "shell stop" and "shell release," basically all that stuff connected to the slide release button. We had a little back and forth to make sure the parts she was talking about were the same ones shown on the disassembly drawing, (since her part names didn't match the ones on the drawing), but I am encouraged that she knew the failure mode and which parts I needed. She gave me the option of sending it back, but encouraged me to fix it myself. I haven't disassembled to that level yet, and I'm hoping it's not "rocket surgery" (to quote one of our famous presidents...one of his best lines in my opinion.). I know Brownell's has pictures of how to change it out, but I will probably wait until the part get here to try, so I don't lose any of the other ones So..maybe in a few weeks, I will no longer have a single shot JM Pro. I'm hopeful anyway.

I appreciate the help. That's what I thought. I went to a gunshow today and saw two of them. On both of them, the back of that lever arm attached to the slide release was much closer to the receiver body than mine was. The release seemed much different too and appeared to move only the end blocking the magazine. I actually reached in and pushed the rear end outward and the slide released forward. I disassembled it down to there again and didn't see any obvious damage, but I didn't have anything to take it out with. The guys selling them had no clue how they were supposed to work but the description of operation didn't sound normal to them either. Thanks again for the help..

No offense taken. When I pull the bolt back, it locks, whether there is something in the magazine or not... Ih, and as far as a manual of arms...I got this brochure telling me how to disassemble it. It didn't go too deeply into "proper operation". I went to the Mossberg sight and saw the same "manual". I believe they can improve on that...even maybe a video...it would be cheap and they could post it in a day with almost no cost.

I'm pushing the bolt release button, to load it. I guess I'll try it with live shells. It seemed to work fine with snapcaps before though, when I first got it. I'm not sure what would be different. I have to push the button to make the bolt go forward and if I do that with a round in the chamber, it kicks two rounds out of the bottom. I had put the old bent up spring back in for testing, in case it was simply a case of too much spring compression with the new one. Hey, I may not be using it right, I'll admit to that. This is my first semi-auto shotgun

Ahh, that didn't do it. Still two rounds, even with the old straightened spring. The release button has always seemed a little squishy, so I'm thinking it's connected to the feed mechanism. This looks like what happened in the first match. I don't know why it would fix itself for 75 rounds, then happen again, but I can't figure it out. I think it's due for a ride back to MOSSBERG. Anybody have experience with their warrantee work? What can I expect as far as time? I know that next Saturday's competition is out of the question am I looking at weeks or months?. Let's see, so far I've had those lockups/multifeeds, a trashed spring, a factory installed piston with aligned rings....please someone tell me they will make it right.

sounds like it may have got twisted when you put the cap on. I would get a new spring, because once its bent there is a good chance that it will bend again. Bend the ends in more. I just received and replaced the spring. I cut it the same length as the one that came out, but it appears a little stiffer. Now I have two shells popping out when I try to load it. Could that simply be too much spring or is something else going on?

I have the same problem. I could find nothing in the rule book that prohibits it, but our match officials don't allow it (I'm assuming there is some rule I couldn't find). When you are quickly shooting at targets, the all-brown targets just seem to blend together sometimes (our NTs are always a standard target with black hands stenciled on them). We have a lot of scenarios where the head of the non-threat is touching or covering part of the down zero. At 10-15 yards, and in less than ideal light, I find it hard to see where the NT head is. It's OK when the two are separated by a few inches, but we often staple them together, eliminating any distinguishing shadows. In order not to hit them, I have to remember where all the NT's are, which is sometimes difficult when other things don't go right. Has anyone seen such a rule?

This still appears to be a popular thread. Today, another match, a different failure mode for failure to feed. Today was my second match and I completed 75% of the course (last time it was 50%). I didn't have any double feeds this time, but with clay's in the air, I pulled the trigger and nothing happened. I had no spring pressure pushing the shells out. I got home and pulled it out from the end. The spring was kinked and sort of distorted at one point. I'm assuming that it got caught up on the inside edge of the extension tube, where it mates to the magazine, but I can't be sure. The magazine extension is tight to the magazine. What is the best way to fix that? Until that happened, it appeared to run much better, with the ends of the piston rings 180 degrees out (there were lined up when I received the gun and shot it in the first match that way with 2 of 4 stages completed). Thanks in advance for any advice.

Same thing when I got mine. Front sight too low. I called them and they sent me another one, since I wanted to put it on myself. I only did it to make sure I had the right size Dawson FO front, which I ordered after I tested the height of the one they sent me. Works fine now. I had planned to go with a fiber optic front when I first bought it anyway.

I've been having that trouble with a .45...just wouldn't go into battery sometimes. When I had a .40sw, it happened all the time due to the infamous Glock bulge. I just bought a gauge block and voila, those rounds wouldn't fit into it. Any time you are working with reloads, even professionally done ones, it wouldn't hurt to use a gauge block (seven hole about $20, 100 hole about $100). I don't know much, but that is one hard won lesson I have already learned well. I've never used Freedom munitions. They advertise that they fully size their casings, but in any manufacturing process, mistakes do happen and it only takes a few minutes to check.. It only takes one bad one to totally screw up a match.

I have that age related effect too. Before you spend a lot of money, buy yourself a set of decent clear safety glasses and stick on bifocals (total about $20). ...depending of course on your current prescription..... I put one bifocal on the center of the dominant eye glass, right in the vision path, and leave the other off. I can see both sights in clear focus and my eye is pointed at the target, naturally, without tilting my head any way. I have to remember to turn my head towards the target when shooting around corners, but I think that is something I should be doing anyway. I may eventually go to an eye doctor to make a prescription like this, but this is working pretty well for me right now. Now if I can only get my head right with the timing (not rushing), I may have a chance of not embarrassing myself (I have a lot of fun though).. PS I also tried Advantage tactical sights and could see them without glasses, but never could get an answer from IDPA on whether they are legal...so I moved back to something more conventional, Dawson fiber sights.

I'm referring to the semicircular entry into the barrel chamber I guess that's a ramp, but it's not a "ramped" barrel. I also polished that little frame area they ground down to be a ramp, but I don't believe the bullets hit there unless they are angled down coming out of the magazine...at least mine don't. By cloth bullet tool, I'm just referring to that bullet shaped felt polishing head that comes in almost every dremel tool kit. It's about 1/3 to 1/2 the diameter of the barrel. It's for polishing curved surfaces.

Playing with the feed lips helped a lot, but 45 seconds with a Dremel, cloth bullet tool, and a little polishing compound eliminated any tendency to hang up there. I hadn't believed it would make that much difference, but it did.

I posted this on the 1911 Rock Island forum, but thought it may help someone here. I've heard a lot about locking the slide back with one round left in the magazine with some of these: I decided to install a Wilson Combat extended slide release to my TCM, since I was having to make awkward motions to hit the slide release on slide lock reloads. When I installed it, I started having the problem, (until then, only rarely) of the slide locking back with one round in the magazine. Taking the slide off and playing with it (with "snapcaps", of course, not live rounds), I noticed that the bottom of the slide release contacted the magazine follower with a round still in the magazine. For other noobs like me, the magazine follower is what triggers the slide release to lock the slide open, when the magazine is empty. By carefully filing off the bottom of the slide release follower contact point, with a jeweler's hand file, I got it to cycle with out locking open until all the rounds were out of the magazine. I left it right at the edge of working, so I might have to adjust it after I shoot it. There is enough play between the magazine follower to magazine tube, that it may not be quite enough to work all of the time. Right now though, the problem is fixed, at least while cycling it by hand. For those of you with this problem, look at that contact point. You may be able to fix it with a small hand file. Just do it carefully or you might go too far. Be careful to not create something that can break off and potentially jam in the loading path. Make sure you are filing the right surface. I almost made that mistake. I also polished the bullet contact points in barrel entry and opened the magazine lips to the size of the magazine that came with it. I haven't had a nosedive in the 200 rounds since I did those things.

I had cleaned it, but hadn't taken the piston apart before I shot it the first time. The piston rings were lined up in the same direction. It left a carbon arrow-shaped mark on the feed tube, which is why I suspected the rings when I saw it. I don't know if that did it for sure, but I went out yesterday and pumped 15 rounds through it, as fast as I could fire and reload and it performed flawlessly for that (it didn't fail the first time until about 65 rounds into the match). Taking the piston out again, the very light deposit was evenly spread around the feed tube (not concentrated in one place and very heavy (I wish I had taken a picture of it). I don't know if it's fixed, but I'm sure I found something that definitely wasn't right.

I just got a JM PRO and did my first attempt at a tactical shotgun match last Saturday, so I'm new to this. Yesterday, as I was practicing loading and unloading, through the bottom, I noticed that my snap cap hit the lifter hard one time. It left a mark across the bottom of it and if the lifter had a center to it, I'm afraid it would have ignited a real shell. Is that a worry with the welded lifter or does everyone just unload by cycling shells through with the charging handle?

Well now I've been sucked into this sport too. I bought a JM pro for my Christmas and Birthday present and shot my first match yesterday. It made it through the first two courses of fire, but choked about 10 rounds into the third. When I say choked, I meant locked up and wouldn't hand cycle. Looked like there was at least a round and a spent one were in the chamber. The match director, who happens to be a gunsmith, cleared it for me (I treated it with much more fear of damage then he did...lol). He used a significant amount of force and his foot. I tried it again on the fourth course of fire and it did it again after about another 10 rounds. The match director grabbed it again and cleared it, then handed it back to me and told me I might as well finish the stage. It did about 15 or 20 rounds flawlessly after that. Is this a common recognizable problem? It sure didn't look like the ones in the preceding videos. I couldn't clear it myself, but I remember having about two or three of those too. Could it simply be a piston problem? I followed the Jerry M. disassembly video and the piston rings were aligned. It looked like it had left a carbon arrow shaped deposit on the feed tube.