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obsessiveshooter

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Everything posted by obsessiveshooter

  1. obsessiveshooter

    TS to CM

    This is intriguing! So with the bushing gone from the slide, what holds the barrel where it ought to be for accuracy? I love this idea, and it makes a real open rig accessible to me.
  2. It's your EGW case gauge. Check the bullets if they can spin freely in your barrel- if they do then you are fine. My egw gauges in 9 and 40 both do this. They catch split cases and deformed cases, but they are useless for catching variation in OAL, unless somehow a bullet were loaded ridiculously long. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  3. UPDATE I polished the feed ramp and eased the transition from feed ramp to chamber. This took care of ALL the issues and it feeds without damaging brass or denting the bullets. It now runs perfect and I can move on to tuning the felt recoil. If anyone else has this issue with their PSA barrel, I highly recommend doing the same thing yourself instead of sending it back to PSA.
  4. I've bought and shot at least 6k of Brazos bullets. The leading I got with the 125gr LG 9mm was incredible. I got less leading with 357 147gr, but holy cow they were smoky. The 180gr .40 bullets have been equivalent to any other bullet I've shot. But with pricing changes, I'll certainly just go back to Precision Bullets. Their coating is just awesome. I can see the quality. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  5. Like the title says, whats the best trigger out there for a PCC, from about $120 on down. I start at that price because the PSA Custom 3.5 lb trigger is that price, and I've heard great things about it. I've also seen some triggers for around $80. I have a PSA PCC with their enhanced polished trigger, which will be a good starter for my boys since they'll be shooting it the most. But once they get the hang of it, that 5+ lb trigger has got to go. I'm not familiar with what makes a trigger work or not work in an AR9. It seems like most of the triggers discussed in this forum are over $200, which I'm just not interested in. There's gotta be a bang for your buck trigger out there in this saturated AR market. Any recommendations?
  6. You won't need 10 magazines in Limited. I have 5 and it's one more than I've ever needed even on 60 round stages. I recommend spending that money on other things. You might like having an adjustable rear sight, or fancy schmancy holster a whole lot more than mags you won't use.
  7. I've been shooting one for years, and I love it. You'll need to blend the CZC magwell. I recommend a 9 or 10 lb recoil spring, and leave the hammer spring alone, dont drop it down in weight. Adjust the trigger to get the take up and over travel you want. The giant czc safety is awesome, but you'll need to trim it to your liking. The factory safety does dig into my support hand a bit during dry fire, but I've never dropped a mag or noticed it during a match. You can get shortened or extended reach aluminum triggers from CZ. The CZC base pads are the only ones to get. You should be able to cram in 21 rounds from the get go. You might want to grind on the trigger guard to make it more comfortable for your strong hand middle finger. If it fits your hands, then you have a pistol that's about as good as it gets. I really dont think I'd gain a thing by switching to the most expensive 2011. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  8. Here you go: search in Ebay- Aluminum Alloy FIREPOWER Base Pad Kit For IPSC USPSA IDPA SHOOTING G17/19/22 Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  9. There are lots of sources for TTI style aluminum +5 extensions for about $10. They work perfectly, zero difference from the actual TTI extensions. You'd need real glock mags, but you are better off with them anyway. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  10. DO NOT buy the Cain Arms extensions. I bought 3 P320 extensions for my wife's pistol, and if they are dropped on concrete they shatter. It's happened twice now. I wouldn't trust them not to shatter if dropped on gravel, stage props, etc. They are 3d printed and work fine till they break, but they are really poorly made. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  11. I kind of wonder what nasty stuff is becoming airborne when brass is dried in an oven or food dehydrator indoors. Or what is soaking into my hands when I rinse the brass after wet tumbling. It can't be good. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  12. I got these off ebay. The deep mag pouch was $13 shipped, and the base pads are $10 shipped. I think they will work great. The base pads are like TTI, with the rod and set screw. I found that to get the tension right on the rod in a foolproof way, cut a little chunk of rubber off a shoe or something, remove the set screw and stick the rubber down the threaded hole. Then put blue loctite on the set screw and screw it in. Instead of being and 1/8 turn of the set screw away from losing the rod, you have a lot of play. The rubber holds it in place tight, but it is still movable. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  13. Honestly, it was kind of fun, since most stages in that narrow bay are lower round count. I was bummed about the penalty, because it kept me from breaking a 12HF, which I would have been proud of. Big question in my mind, is this: Could you design a Virginia count stage laid out sort of like this where you use hardcover on some targets to lure Shooters into shooting faster, hitting the hardcover and getting a Mike and an extra shot penalty on the shoot through target a few yards behind, and still have the stage be legal? Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  14. Bret, T1 2 shots, t2 & t3 3 shots each, mandatory reload, t4 & t5 4 shots each, mandatory reload, t6&t7 3 shots each, t8 2 shots. Who knows, maybe a target was bumped over. If I had stood in the middle or back of the box, it wouldn't have been a problem. A smarter shooter on my squad saw the potential and said he stood back for that very reason. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  15. If it's that simple, then it's good to know for next time I encounter this scenario. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  16. I understand how to score targets that are overlaid. But it seems like the fact that the targets are not touching each other would be significant. Here is the actual stage. The D hit was on T4 and passed through into T3. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  17. A detail that might be important here: If that D hit hadn't broken the perf, it still would have passed through the other target.
  18. Here's a hypothetical that simplifies and makes clear a question I have, based on a stage I shot in a recent match, where I was given an procedural I didn't agree with but wasn't willing to push on. Virginia count stage with two targets, each on their own stands and separated by a several feet but presented so the transition between them is extremely small. All shooting is from 3'x3' Box A. If a D zone hit on the closest target also breaks the perimeter perf, and proceeds to make a hole in the second target, how do you score/penalize that second hole? I was given an extra hit penalty, and I thought it wasn't right but couldn't think of exactly why. Normally that extra hit penalty would be on stacked targets attached to each other on the same target stand, not on what i would consider a shoot-through. Of course the stage shouldn't have a allowed for a shoot-through, but in this case it did. If it were a important match, how would you argue against the penalty on exactly what grounds? Or am I wrong and it was scored correctly?
  19. I sent PSA a very detailed email about the issue, along with my order # and relevant info. Instead of an actual response, I got an email asking for my relevant info and order number so I could send it back. I think I'm going to just modify it myself instead of possibly being without the gun for weeks. Thanks everyone for the super helpful info! I feel like I know where to start to fix it. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  20. The bolt is whatever bolt PSA includes with their complete uppers.
  21. So that isnt normal? Ok, I'll call PSA. Could anyone post a pic of a GOOD feed ramp/chamber? Normally I'd fire up the dremel to ease that transition, but anything removed will also remove chamber support. Seems like material needs to be added in this case. For what it's worth, I was able to get a super slow mo video: Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  22. I tried 50 times to get a sweet super slow mo video of a round being chambered, but I couldn't time it right. Anyways, here's pics of the chamber, orientation of round in a new glock mag, and where the round hits the feed ramp. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  23. I'll need to buy some FMJ, I have none on hand. It's worth checking for sure. I dont mind only feeding this factory ammo, as it's for my boys to shoot. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  24. The issue is not the ammo. My main concerns are: 1) is the bullet denting somewhat normal, or are there chamber and or feed ramp issues? 2) It seems like if the case gets damaged during feeding to where it wont fully feed, it is guaranteed to be lit off OOB. This one happened while my son was shooting, and it stung his face and hand. I'm not real happy about that. I think I need to contact PSA. The inherent ability of an AR9 to drop the hammer out of battery means that it MUST feed ammo without damaging it. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
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