Cuz

Well, When I ordered the "Trigger Job" DVD I also ordered a Miculek spring kit which I thought would reduce the trigger pull, and also an EDM fibre optic front site. But when I read the installation instructions it says you also have to grind down the strain relief screw. I wonder if the spring kit is even necessary if I just shortened the screw. I think from many posts I've read here the mainspring and rebound spring work as a team and need to be "compatible" in some sort of way. I guess it's time to watch the video to see what kind of stone and files I need to order now. You are correct about the gunsmith. I will go and watch him install the front site for me since I can't do the drilling, but I think I'll watch the video and see if I can't do the stoning stuff my self. ICORE at S&W? I don't have any idea what that is? I've never been to S&W, although Springfield is probably only a couple of hours from me. I'll send you an email for info. -Cuz.

What does it mean when the trigger sometimes gets hung up during the return motion when firing? If I fire very fast it seems to work all the time, but when I fire slower in double action mode sometimes the trigger doesn't always return all the way forward. It also feels very rough during the forward motion after firing. also, I just ordered the Jerry Miculek "Trigger Job" DVD, but was wondering if the video is accurate for the newer model S&W Revolvers with the keylock in the sideplate? Thanks, Cuz.

Congratulations. But wait till you find out diapers cost more than ammo. That was an interesting realization. Enjoy.

You can also try the Safariland 002 Cup Challenge holster or the Universal "Extreme" holster available from Shooter's Connection. I tried looking for the Universal Extreme holster at shooters connection but couldn't find it. Can you provide a bit more info or a link? Thanks, -Cuz.

Randy, Can I see a pic of your hammer somewhere? Thanks, -Cuz.

I took a taser blast in one of Massad Ayoobs classes. It hurt like hell, but I was able to draw and return fire rather quickly. Of course, Mas wouldn't let me have a loaded gun when they hit me so all I really did was draw and dry fire at a plate rack. I tried to convince him to let me do it with a loaded gun but he would have none of that. They even took my pocket knife away from me before the blast "just in case". I'm glad I did it tho. Now I know I can respond if necessary. Lest any of you think I'm superhuman or anything, it was just a single blast with the Taser, not actually getting shot with the prongs. The short blast hurt enough, I don't think I could have done anything but drop like a rag doll if it were a sustained blast from being shot with the prongs. -Cuz.

The .360 Milletts don't quite work with the factory front site. I dialed mine all the way down and it still shoots about 4 inches low at 50 feet. Looks like I'll be ordering that .300 SDM site sooner than I had planned. I actually did pretty good with it at a plate shoot today. The rack was only about 40 feet away so aiming at the base of the plates worked fine. -Cuz. Hey Mike, The Millett rear sight assembly is absolutely worth the investment--better by far than the factory unit or the aluminum Weigand replacement blade. Go with the .360" Millett and the .300" SDM f/o up front. Mike I just checked out the SDM webpage and they are recommending the .250 front site with the Millett .360 rears. Is there a big difference? Why might I want the .300 instead of the .250? EDM Website quote: "Example: existing front sight height .250" existing rear sight height .360 Use .300" high Super Sight and .410" Millet rear." -Cuz

Oh Pete, now you've done it. I was using MG but switched to Zero cause they were over $10 cheaper (per 1000) thru Chuck at Shooter's connection. I haven't even started loading the 2000 I bought and now you have me thinking about going back to MG. I've had no problems with any of the Zero's I've shot in .45 and I've gone thru around 4k so far. My SV won't be ready for a while yet so I still have time to decide. Maybe I'll go Zero in .45s and MG for my .40 shooting. Decisions decisions... -Cuz.

+1 on the Pro Ears. I tried a few of the better ones before I called the guys at Ridgeline. Initially it was the 5 year warranty that got me to try them. Now you couldn't pay me to give them up. I have the Dimension 1 and they're great. They may take 4 batteries, but they seem to last forever. -Cuz

Thanks Carmoney. I ordered the .360 site and also a set of Pachmayr grips. Only I didn't get them from Brownells. I don't mind supporting them, but I can't afford to throw my money away either. Natchez had the rear site for more than $15 less. And the grips were over $7 less. That's a savings of over $22 on a $50 order. When I get the SDM front site I will order from Brownells as their price is reasonable for them. -Cuz.

Will the Millett .360 work with the factory front site on a new model 625? I'd like to put the Millett rear site on now and change the front site down the road. Thanks, -Cuz.

Randy, What kind of timeframe would you guess for those parts? Are we talking within a monthor so? I'd be interested in both the site and cylinder release. I'm a lefty with a new 625 so keep me posted. -Cuz.

Is this because you don't use them or you are overly paranoid about losing one??? Sorry, I had to ask. -Cuz.

It's a good idea to dryfire the gun and watch the parts move when the sideplate is off to get an idea of the relationship between the parts. It'll start to make sense after a few pulls. Thanks, but this is what got me in trouble the first time I took the side plate off. I pulled the trigger and the hammer block popped off and I couldn't figure out where it went. For some reason the correct location didn't seem right. I ended up grabbing a new model 66 out of the safe and opening that up to see where the part went. Thank goodness I actuall had another of the new style S&W revolvers. All of my other ones are older. Once I put it together and put the sideplate back on I was afraid to take it back off. -Cuz. Do the old clear plastic side plates fit the new yoke screw ?? (granted you don't have to have one but .....) There's a clear plastic side plate available? Where can I get one? -Cuz

Nice gun. I'm jealous, my SV is still over a month away. Time moves soooo slowly when waiting for a new gun. That's why I had to buy a S&W 625 revolver to make the time go by faster... -Cuz.

Thanks for the info. I wasn't being totally honest when I said I removed it. Actually I had a local gunsmith do a trigger job on the revolver and when I got home I noticed it was missing. I called him up to ask about it and he said it was a useless part and he takes them out whenever he does a trigger job on competition guns. I guess I'll ask for it back. -Cuz

AzShooter & R112mercer, Thanks for the detailed info. I wish I knew what part was the "hand". I think I'll copy off both sets of instructions and save them til I work up some more nerve before attempting. I'm not very good with small springy parts at all. -Cuz.

Can you confirm if it covers the new model 625? Thanks, -Cuz. Yeah, that's what scared me when I took the side plate off. I wasn't expecting to see so many parts in there. -Cuz. Which video did you get? there are two on S&W revolvers. Neither mentions anything about the newer revolvers. Does it say when the video was created? Thanks, -Cuz. Not sure what's going on with my posts, I think my Browser is screwed up. It's putting all of them in the same reply. Oh well, don't-cha just love computers??? -Cuz.

DJ, These threads don't belong to anyone. They belong to everyone. I'm just trying to learn as much as I can so whatever direction this thread takes will provide me with valuable knowledge. I have another post somewhere asking about pictures and instructions so I can work up the nerve to take my revo apart and do some polishing. When I took the sideplate off there were a few more parts in there than I was expecting to find. I figured out the hammer block dohickey doesn't seem very important in a competition revolver. Is there any reason I should keep it in? I already took it out. -Cuz Thanks for the info. I found their website but it doesn't look like the store part is up and running so I'll have to call Vic to get more info. -Cuz. Thanks for the info. I found their website but it doesn't look like the store part is up and running so I'll have to call Vic to get more info. -Cuz.

Anyone know where I can get some pics or instructions for taking apart (and putting back together) the action on my new 625? I am hoping to find something online with detailed pics that explains what the parts are and how to put them back together once removed. Thanks, -Cuz.

Thanks Mike, The only problem with what you say is that it requires knowledge about how to bend the spring or how many coils to cut off. I don't have that. I figured by buying a drop in part I could eliminate "me" from the equation. On a similar note, rather than replace the front site with a fibre optic, why not just drill out the existing sight and insert a fibre optic rod? The existing sight seems like the perfect blank for doing this to. -Cuz.

I'm trying to figure out what's the difference between installing a Brownells reduced Power Rib mainspring or just backing out the strain screw a turn or two? Also, The reduced power kit comes with 3 different rebound springs. Does anyone know what weight spring comes in a new 625? Thanks, -Cuz.

Those sights look nice. Does the SDM fron sight just drop right in? It looks like all that's needed is to push out the pin, switch sights and put the pin back. Is it really that easy? Do you have to drill a hole in the sight or is it already there? I have a brand new 625-8 that I want to install them in. Thanks, -Cuz

I use strictly walnut media. I use two batches, one for cleaning and another for polishing. I tumble in cleaning media for about 2-3 hours. I usually save my brass and spend the whole weekend just doing that. Then on another weekend I'll use the polishing batch of walnut media mixed with Dillon case polish and tumble for 3-4 hours. From reading everyone elses posts it appears that I may be a bit fanatical and am also spending more than the others. I may need to rethink my plan and equipment based on other posts. -Cuz.

I'm quite confident that at my level I won't notice a difference. I think I'll just take it however I can get it the fastest. Then maybe after I've put some serious rounds thru it I'll be good enough to take advantage of an AET barrel when I order my next gun. Maybe get it on a new Open gun in a couple of years... -Cuz