Hello

That does seem low

It’s been a while since I sold any mags

Search is not returning anything for me

What is the going rate for 140 and 170’s thinking of putting some up for sale Grams guts and basepads

Make some plywood footprint cutouts and use them on every stage, hands at sides for whole match.

Bottom right and stay there

My nephew just bought a gold team and it is auto closing out of the box, he does not want it to do this. Has too much material already been removed or is it salvageable? Does anyone have any pictures of how to set the angle?

I cut the bottom off a 20oz Coke bottle and have been using it for 15 years now it is as discolored as my powder hopper.

I shoot a 6" Eagle with upgrades and slide lightning. Have owned many high end guns, but this is the one I keep! Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

This poll is bunk...you have people with hybrid and non voting in the same pole. I like N350 in non-hybrid and hs-6 in hybrid.

You said you don't expand or bell, what press are you loading on? If your powder funnel does your belling you may not be getting full stroke on your powder bar. If you adjusted your powder charge was adjusted on a short case a longer charge could potentially drop more powder. If you load on a single stage disregard.

As far as the real world vs. practice thing goes: Last time I was shooting my carry gun I accidentally forgot to put my ear plugs in, this was with my carry ammo, and holy smokes... my head rang! In a real world situation I think I would be hard pressed to take a second shot anyway from the ear pain. Practice with the weaker stuff, save some money and probably extend the life of your barrel.

I ran the PDR low ride in single stack and after it broke in I think it was quite possibly the best holster I ever owned. I wish DAA would build on that model for an open gun holster for 3 gun, like that suede lining!

I have owned these for 15-20 years.

What is the going rate on used 140 and 170 old style SV mags such as the ones in the pic? This is not a for sale thread do not make me any offers.

Don't fully understand the "stroked" thing (can you please explain) and where would I get alum shock buffs? thank you hello. Bryan Search it you will find plenty of info. Speed Shooters Int. Is where I get them.

3gun dummies think open minor is faster... You don't score hits and minor won't run the comp and these guns are designed for major. if you are running minor you should just get a glock MOS. What he said but with less judgement. I run my same major load in open division 3 gun. This way point of impact is the same and steel falls better. When I run my limited gun in 3 gun I keep everything about my load the same with the exception that I do drop a lighter bullet on it. This is because I am shooting .40 and it does seem to have advantages.

Stay after the match look for the largest piles of brass pick it all up. Tell your club members you will trade 2 for one 9, 40, etc. for super comp. Have got many free buckets of SC that way.

Also if it is stroked, add 2 or 3 aluminum shock buffs and cut the recoil spring so it gets full stroke with the buffs in place. You may like that better.

My Akai's in that configuration came with cut down Wolf 8# recoil springs. I do not know what Freedom rounds are loaded with. My suggestion would be chamber check every round first make sure they don't sit too low. Chrono a few see how it functions and report back.

Any one tried throwing them in your wet media tumbler yet?

Keep on keepin on... while your rackin your slide the 38sc or the guy that put the extra TIME in on his 9mm brass will blow on by! Call them ports poppel holes, thrust vectoring for all I care... I have them on all my current open guns and they are all shorties. I've owned 5 major 9's, 6 SC's, and 5 supers and I've ran major 9 in all of them except 2 heavily "ported" SC's. All built by top smiths in our sport. My point is the more heavily ported they are the longer your oal ends up being to accommodate more powder. With 9 major the longer you load the more important case prep and inspection becomes. And that's a fact jack!

To get 9mm major to run 100% all the time you must either use new brass or add the following steps to used mixed head stamp "free" brass: Swage, undersize, bulge bust or roll size (your choice), sort out the crap. Anyone not doing these steps will have malfs or they are BS'ing you. And then if you have automated presses like I do you have to go back thru your brass and double check for any .380 that is mixed in. I have never bought a batch that did not have some mixed in. 38SC extra step mark it so you can pick up yours. Load the crap out of it until the primers fall out. Only telling the truth!

echotango: your post confirms my comments. What kind of time does it take to look at 16k head stamps to pull out the crap ones?

I like to sight in at 50 yrds. I sight in at the top edge of my 6 moa dot as close as possible. Then I verify at 25 yrd, that I am dead nuts on. Finally at 10 yrds I am at the bottom edge of my dot. This puts everything from about 10-50yrds in the red and inside 10 yrds who really sees the dot anyway!