naim

"Shoot fast, don't miss!" Angus hobdell

i dint see a specific throw lever for this scope yet and I would prefer not to use a universal one. Just wondering if anyone has one and what there experience is.

I use 771 for pistol stuff, you can get a faster reload out of them but are not as secure as the 773s. I use 773 for multigun they are more secure in turn making them slower to reload.

Using Dillon dies

I have been running cmores pretty hard for the past ten years. I have both aluminum and polymer. They both have their pros and cons. The plastic ones usually crack at the windage set screw. I have just rebodied a few scopes and cmore has tried something new by adding more material to this area. Seems to work so far. The problems I've had with the aluminum other than the weight is the electronics/switch going out. I guess something to do with them being more rigid than the polymer. If I had a choice I would probably stick with the polymer. Seems to work just as good as the aluminum. Plus I like the serendipity model. With that said there is no better scope for open pistols in my opinion. I have an open gun with over a 100,000 rounds and I finally had the scope rebodied. We are running top fuel dragsters it's normal for things to break. For me cmores have held up better than most.

I've been reloading .223 for about a year now so I'm still fairly new to it. I prefer not to put a crimp on my precision ammo. The problem I'm running into is I don't have enough neck tension on the case to hold the bullet in place. Is there something I'm missing? Or is there no way around putting a crimp on the ammo?

Eta on the scope or more details ?

I don't remember exact reload time in the video but total time for the first run was sub 3 sec I've gotten my reloads int the .50's Insane fast, but it's more of a parlor trick. I would never go that fast when it really counts. It's really hard to see much at those speeds. I've come to a point in my shooting where I think great shooting will overcome every time. Fast manipulations (i.e. draws and reloads) are cool and fun to watch but they don't matter if you can't hit the target or execute consistently.

check out 5:10

i can't seem to find any info on this scope. where can i find some specs?

i have been shooting open for a few years now and the best advice i can give you for an optic on a shotgun is don't skimp. i went through 5 red dots this year i finally got a hold of a trijicon rmr. its the only one that held up. i have not tried the aimpoint or eotech but I'm assuming they are going to be just as good. i wasted twice as much money going through cheaper scopes vs. just buying right the first time.

if you want to improve your skills practice sessions are more important than matches. People always ask me "how do i make it to m or gm?" my answer is always how much practice are you doing? usually people tell me "well, i shoot all the local matches" think about it this way you only get one shot at a stage in a match but in practice you can work a drill or stage until you see progression or better results. what i usually recommend is to find your weaker points and practice those until they are your strong points. sometimes its not fun but thats how you become good.

Thanks for the great input guys just what I was looking for. I'm just going to keep using the factory setup for now.

I used to spend a lot of time on my draw. I got it to where I was "proficient" but I kept on working at it. I always thought of it as something that wasn't worth as much time as I put into it but I liked doing it. One of the biggest problems i faced when getting a crazy fast draw was getting the follow up shots under control or seeing the sights. I would have a really good first shot but then it would take what I thought was an eternity to get to the next shot (mostly in steel challenge). I then focused on fixing this lag on the second shot. Which turned into a different emphasis than the draw. So I guess my point is the draw is a good thing to practice because it creates a base or sets the tone/pace for the rest of the stage/drill. The problem with me was my draw was more developed than the rest of my skills hence the perceived problem with the follow up shots. As for gaining time on the draw. Where I gained the most time was getting to the gun faster. Being aggressive with this movement will net the easiest gains. The next thing I worked was something people sometimes overlook (I call it aiming speed) The time it takes you to line up the sights. The faster I would present the gun the slower my aiming speed would be. So I worked on smoothing out the last few inches of the presentation of the gun which in turn increased my aiming speed. Just my 2 1/2 cents for whatever that's worth!

Want to change the barrel in my m&p pro 9mm. Just wanted to see what everyone is using and which barrel has the best results.

Ok so my next question is 12ga or 20ga? My only concern with a 20ga is that he will outgrow it quick

My 9 year old nephew is dying to try 3 gun. I got him squared away with a pistol and rifle but my open shotguns are a bit much for him. I want to get some input on what other jrs his age are using.

I'm shooting b&p competition one which are 1160fps. My gun doesn't like the hot stuff. Maybe it's beating itself to death that might explain why I'm on my 6th sight.

I broke a bolt carrier/action bar and I just broke the drive block. I'm starting to think I should go back to a tube fed gun and sticks.

I have had no luck finding replacement parts for my akdal (Aside from buying another gun and scavenging parts). Does anyone have a line on replacement parts?

Maybe you guys can clarify. I just don't see how a bolt can outrun the magazine on an ar style rifle. If the magazine and rifle are in good working order, the magazine is putting positive upward pressure on the ammo. The bolt travels completely through its cycle. I can't see how it would not pick up a round regardless of bolt speed. I usually rack this type of malfunction up as short stroking. Just trying to understand what's going on (with the gun not the pissing match)

Thanks for all the input guys. I got a hold of a go pro hero 3. How are you mounting it? I would like to mount it on my earmuffs closer to my right eye (if possible) but the shape of the go pro doesn't lend itself to this. Any suggestions?

I've been shooting open class for a couple of years now and i was initially running an open benelli with a jp dot, have never had an issue with this dot set up. I decided last year to get an akdal mka. first i put on an aluminum cmore, the electronics went out on that. i tried another cmore that one broke too. then i tried a doctor optic that i had, that wouldn't hold zero. I tried a couple more scopes until i got to the trijicon rmr. this seems to be the only red dot (that I've tried) to hold up to that shotgun so far. what a can of worms i opened! buy something that will hold up, we are doing things that shotguns weren't meant to do. moral to the story shoot tac scope!

Most of these feature a fish eye lens. I find it kind of annoying. Is this a problem for anyone or is it just preference?

I'm a little behind the curve, but noticing people mounting cameras on their hats or ear muffs. I want to give this a try. What is the consensus on which camera to use? Unless I just duct tape my dads old VHS camcorder to my head but I don't think my neck can hold it up.