kneelingatlas
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Everything posted by kneelingatlas
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.38 Super Open barrel on a Limited Custom
kneelingatlas replied to sedrik's topic in Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG)
Are you asking if a .38 Super Gold Team barrel will fit in a .38/9 Limited Custom slide? If so, it will not. The Gold Team is a standard length slide (4.5" barrel) and the Limited side is a "long slide" (4.75" barrel). Adding a comp to a Limited involves some custom work. -
What's been said above; many Open shooters will never fully realize the potential of the comp because they get a load which makes major/cycles the gun and stop experimenting. There is a lot surrounding the design of your particular pistol/comp design and pistol selection. As a rule of thumb: lighter bullets/more powder shoot flatter but there's a limit to how much gas your particular comp can utilize, also there's a limit to how much powder you can burn before you start sending unburnt powder downrange. There's a lot to be gained by standing on the shoulders of the giants around here so read about their experiments but in the end it's about your personal preference.
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I hear the Kadet is the most reliable of the .22 conversions (the price/availability agrees ) I've never shot one, but I'm pretty sure 10 rounds is the max in any conversion because of the rimmed cartridge.
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None of you KY guys know a John Evans do you?
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A real work of art!
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Some music stores also do them. I always wanted some, but didn't want to make a special gun show trip just for them, so I googled "custom ear plugs" and found lots of places close by.
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I actually went to a local audiologist.
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First off Nick, nothing here is "necessary", CZs are great shooters right out of the box; that being said this is an SP01, not a Shadow so there is no is no stop plate. The firing pin block equipped pistols use a roll pin to retain the firing pin.
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Tell me about it!
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You might try different trigger bar/disco combos, I know I did that with my small frames and got a combo with zero pretravel (actually wouldn't reset at all when I first put it together!): If you don't have a mountain of spare parts to try like I do, if I remember correctly cpa5oh used the CGW short reset disco in his Stock II; talk to him about the fitting.
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I had one and it was pretty sweet, although you can do it yourself with my thread In my opinion the Shadow triggers are better than Tanfoglios.
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I too have shot a sweet decocker trigger set up by David of CGW and would take one any over a short beaver tail
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85 has the short beaver tail like the 75B... unacceptable.
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Slavex, I think you might have your terminology mixed up, the Shadow pistols don't have firing pin blocks.
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I did a Witness trigger job on camera once, but it was like five hours of footage and I never got around to editing; I decided the picture thread was enough work for me
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I like this idea too, keep 'em coming!
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That's great thinking and exactly the sort of brainstorming I has hoping for with this thread I was afraid to take too much off the lifter foot thinking the block would no longer clear so I took some off the corresponding edge of the trigger bar. I'll have to post a video of the reset one of these days...
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Stuart, have you tried cutting off one of the legs on the trigger bar spring? Since a lighter plunger bar spring can do do much for a Tanfo it seems like that might make dome gains on a CZ.
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I actually took a little off the sear, off the 'foot' of the FPB lifter and the trigger bar where it picks up the lifter to get it that short.
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Here are the trigger pull weights I saw attained this work: And the reset is VERY short Theses numbers could be lower with an 8.5# hammer spring and more polishing, but I think this is a pretty good example of a first pass (plus the 8.5# hammer spring will light strike with anything but Federal primers). David recently boasted a four pound, three ounce DA and two pound twelve ounce SA pull with a firing pin block SP01: http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=61974.msg409657#msg409657 which is as low as I've ever heard of . I did a Shadow with an 11.5# hammer spring which ended up with a five pound five ounce DA and one pound, fourteen ounce SA, very sweet! Please feel free to add information or debate the techniques I’ve used here; my hope is that this thread can help develop the best ideas for tuning the pistols we love.
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Install the right side safety first, a little grease will keep the detent in place, then install the sear assembly: Left side safety needs to go under the long leg of the sear spring: Finally use a jeweler's screw driver to push the left side detent to the rear so you can slide the safety in the last few mm:
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Once everything is assembled with the short reset disconnector the trigger may not reset so you will need to remove a little metal from any/all of the following places: the firing pin block lifter arm, the wedge of the disconnector and the trigger bar. Go SLOW when removing metal, there’s no going back! Some tips for reassembly: The hammer pin retainer pin must go back in before the left side safely detent:
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Push the sear pin out taking care to keep the sear spring and firing pin block lifter spring from flying away on you. The polish the underside of the sear cage where the top disconnector makes contact during the DA stroke. Roll a piece of sand paper and pull it through the sear pin hole. also the lifter arm. Be careful with the sear face; polish, don’t sand! The short leg of the sear spring is very short, so if you want to make a slave pin it has to be tight; I use a punch to maneuver the spring onto the pin.
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Re attach the trigger bar. As you drive in the trigger pin, it will push the slave pin out the other side. The sear cage: reassembly can be tricky, so if you’re not mentally prepared, skip this step . I'd like to add that you can achieve a dramatic improvement over the stock trigger pull with just a few of these modifications so if you're intimidated by any of this, just skip it and come back to it another time.
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As you can see from the standard hammer on the left, to the stock Shadow hammer to the CZ race hammer, the depth of the hammer hooks have a drastic effect on the single action pull. When reinstalling the pins I hold them with needle nosed pliers and use a vice to press them in: When you use a vise to press the pins into the hammer it's important you keep the pin perpendicular to the hammer, otherwise it can bind and break the hammer; as an alternative you can place the hammer flat on a bench or block and drive in the pins with a small gunsmith's hammer like this one: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/hammers/3-4-plastic-brass-hammer-sku818600343-12589-30175.aspx?cm_mmc=cse-_-Itwine-_-shopzilla-_-818-600-343&utm_medium=cse&utm_source=connexity&utm_campaign=itwine&utm_content=818-600-343" It’s important to polish the sides of the hammer where it rubs on the frame. The easiest way to re install the trigger return spring is to use a slave pin the same width as the trigger which can be made from a finish nail.
