Carmoney

Got a buffer in there? If so, toss it in the trash.

As an Eagle myself, I would heartily agree with ffl's suggestion. Scouting has been under tremendous political and social pressure in recent years--if ever there was a worthy organization that could use the help, it's BSA.

Please PM me with contact information of the person who called, or email me at carmoney4@aol.com. I would like to personally follow up with the CEO and/or general counsel about this.

Did anybody else get the feeling that all of the big dawg IPSC shooters in the game were harmed by their own big shooting egos? Think about it.......

Let me get this straight..... 1. Smith & Wesson serves as the premiere sponsor for the IRC, donating far more than any other sponsor year after year after year. 2. They were generous enough with the prize guns in 2010 that you still got a gun for finishing.....let's see.....29th place overall. 3. Instead of sending the rimfire rifle shown on your prize certificate, they substitute a check for $400. Which happens to be the current street price of the gun. 4. You're angry about it, you openly complain about S&W on a national forum that caters to competitive shooters, and you announce your plans to attend a shareholder's meeting and voice your displeasure. Did I get that right, John?

Mike , So do you think you could drill a 8-3/8 barrel out you would keep the same profile but looking for the end it would look like a overunder shot gun. I gus you would have a 22 hole over a 45 hole......... is that some thing you could do ??? w/trigger also... That 627 hammer/trigger work you did for me is AWESOME. I don't have the machine capability for a project like that.....but if you look around you might be able to find a 6" or 8-3/8" skinny profile barrel from a 17, and I think that's probably what you want. Another alternative would be to use a 6" w/underlug 617 barrel, and have the underlug milled off. I think that would be easier than drilling it out, although I see the appeal in the O/U shotgun concept! (Thanks for the kind words on your Carmonized 627--I hope you enjoy it for many years to come!)

Not 100% sure, but I think you could screw on a 6" or 8-3/8" barrels from a Model 17 and have yourself a 10-shooter with long sight radius and no heavy underlug to bog you down.

Glenn, does your 617 have stock sights? If so, before you do anything drastic to the barrel, you might want to install one of Toolguy's .100" X .200" fiber optic front sights. Particularly in combination with the Weigand back blade, a narrower FO (or even black) front sight might be everything you need. The 6" 617s start to get pretty muzzle heavy and can inhibit the quick transitions you need on steel.

Humidity?? I thought it felt pretty dry out there, compared to what we've been dealing with in Iowa this spring and summer! But it sure was hot. I also appreciate all the work that was put into setting up and running this match. Thanks to everyone who helped with Area 3.

Quick update on my 625: The cylinder stop really wasn't all that worn, but the spring had become quite a bit shorter than a new stock spring. I highly suspect the spring was the actual problem with my gun. But I went ahead and tossed in a new cylinder stop (yep--no fitting required!) along with a new spring, and it's back to working perfectly. Other items of interest: (1) The gun was remarkably clean inside considering I haven't had it apart in a long time, have shot it in the rain, etc., etc. Since I had it apart anyway, I went ahead and cleaned the insides, but it really wouldn't have needed cleaning. As I have posted elsewhere, it is really not necessary to take a S&W revolver apart unless there is a problem that truly warrants the disassembly; (2) It was finally ready for one .002" endshake bearing--I initially installed two and that made it too tight--one shim was just right. Went outside and test-fired it, ripping off rounds as fast as I could crank the thing--couldn't make it free-wheel. It's always nice to see Skip Chambers leave town again. Hopefully he doesn't make it back here anytime soon.

Nah--the prize isn't big enough to interest me.

Thanks, brothers! I enjoyed the match a great deal, but with 14 stages and 371 rounds required plus all of Sherwyn's contraptions and devious traps, I felt like I was working my ass off for two days! Nice to see lots of old friends, and great to meet some new folks as well.

It's after 6pm in Florida, so I'm sure by now he's found a place where he can get a nice hard spanking on his 40th birthday. (By somebody other than Luke, I mean....) Happy Birthday, Cliff!

Yes, this particular gun has worked fine since I fixed that little issue back in 2006, and I do use it quite a bit. In fact, I probably haven't had the gun apart since then--once they are set up correctly, I don't think revolvers need to be disassembled without a good reason. When I was getting ready for Area 3, I cleaned my 625 and looked it over externally. The lead-in ramps looked fine and it cycled and functioned perfectly. I don't remember looking at the cylinder stop, though. I started the match on Stage 2 and everything was fine through the first nine stages, but then the crazy skipping problem started very suddenly at the beginning of Stage 11. Back in 2006, it came on gradually. This time there was no warning--it instantaneously went from being fine to being almost non-functional. Last night when I looked at the gun, I can see noticeable wear on the ball of the cylinder stop--obviously enough wear that it no longer engages properly. With a new stop and spring, I'm fairly sure it will be fine for another few years. A 10,000 round replacement interval sounds about right.

Interesting timing on this question--just this morning on Stage 11 at Area 3 the cylinder on my 625 began free-wheeling wildly. I fought my way through the stage and got some points, but immediately switched to my back-up 625 for the rest of the match. The last time this happened was about 4 years ago, and I have shot the gun quite a bit since then. The cylinder is peened, but not drastically so, and the ramp bottoms are not lipped, so it almost has to be a worn cylinder stop. I think I'm going to start replacing the cylinder stop and stop spring on a yearly basis. The MIM stops pretty much drop in with little or no fitting, so it's pretty cheap and easy insurance.

Definitely!

Hmmmmm.....rather unlike you to start trash-talking in advance. Shades of "shit sandwich"......so when and where is Area 8?

I'd say no. Save your money for an 8-shot .38/.357 for ICORE or a .45/10mm wheel for USPSA.

Or: "So anyhow, Cliff was telling John this great story when Jerry comes up behind him and...."

Whether you intended to or not, all you guys are reinforcing the point I made earlier. Multi-string stages are nothing but trouble. I understand they help expedite things at local matches and whatnot--OK, fine. But they should not appear at bigger matches, for all the reasons that have been touched on in this thread. Or so it seems to me.

Always wondered if you wore the goofy hat around inside the house. Guess we know the answer!

My wife has a Mini Cooper also. The nice thing about the Mini is if you happen to run your battery down, you can jump-start it off your Ipod.

I agree with Dave.

If you look at my avatar, you'll see the position of a Millett .360" rear sight on my 5" 625. This gun (and my other 625 which is essentially identical) has a .300" SDM front sight and hits dead nuts at 15 yards with 230-gr. major loads. As you can see, the rear sight is nicely positioned, and is approximately in the middle of its adjustment range.

Not to mention the fact that multi-string stages are usually where the bottle-necks occur.