Trident

A weapon-mounted light won't illuminate your sights. A support-hand flashlight won't either. If your target is in the light, but your gun isn't, you want night sights. In my experience, and YMMV, when I use a weapon mounted light to identify a target my sights will be back lit enough and I can use my sights fine. I have found that I can engage multiple targets exposed at a fraction of a second in the same splits as full daylight. When engaging in short exposure, high stress, battle type reactive engagements, there is little or no time to focus on dots anyway. IME "night sights" will appear as a black post as will the F/O's. Depending on how deployed, a reaction hand light will cause a lot of back scatter coming back of the gun and sights and will constrict your eyes losing night vision not to mention a lack on weapon control. During dusk and dawn there is a small advantage but really not much one just needs to test. After hundreds of hours operating at night.... ah never mind..... I was just inquiring to folks game guns anyway.

Thanks everyone for your thought so far.

U notch vs. square notch and what width front and rear?

Thanks I'll take a look. I'm not a big fan of Tijicon type sights as they do not make as good of daylight sight brightness or daytime performance and the use at night is well...... debatable. IMHO, I question their worth even at night. I think there are a lot of folks using "night" sites and no light thinking they are good when in fact far from it. Most of these folks have never operated and/or shot at night. You should be using a light mounted weapon at all times there is not adaquate light to be able to clearly see and identify the target and threat. At night it is imperative to have enough light to positively identify the threat and be responsible for each round sent down range. If you have enough light to properly identify the target you have more than enough light to see your sights and in this case the "night sites" make no difference. The only, and I mean only time, that these types of sights may be any advantage is at those times at dusk and sunrise when there is low light and again, one can argue if there is not enough light to clearly identify the target and the sights there is not enough light to not be requiring the use of a light. In addition, any rear sight on a carry or defense firearm, should have a notch or flat front surface to be able to rack the slide using the rear sight for one hand, especially one hand support hand employment.

Currently I'm using a Dawson adjustable rear .125 and red f/o .100 front which is like .295 or .305 tall, something like that, And I find them too slow or distracting due to the height of the front sight and all the vertical room in the notch. I would prefer something where the bottom of the notch is around the top of the slide, bottom of the front sight, when aligned correctly so I'm looking for something else. Your suggestions?

And the Dawson you don't?

You will love this one better, and more, from Manny Bragg at Universal. http://www.mannyusa.com/Firearms_Training/product/Futuristic_Magnetic.html

Art do yourself, and everyone else a favor, and get some creditability and use the money for that box of Ammo on a chronograph so your info is accurate and your not guessing......

Build this for $1000 ($1300 including slide work) including 3 extended mags, holster and pouches!!! 20+1 capacity, awesome Apex FSS trigger, and RUNS, RUNS, RUNS... wet, muddy, dusty... JeffWard For the same amount you could have had this really cool one. http://ateiguns.com/costa/

Below

Why? Thats 131 PF which should be perfect. The ES and SD are consistent with mine. Love that load. Just shot 4000 with this same load with Berry's 124g HBRN last week.

Like how long a week for me? ;')

You'll love the Frank Garcia/ Manny Bragg one at Universal at the link above much better than the CR , ghost or others. Use the CR belt and pouches and your gold.

Depends on what your looking for. The standard for production is the Blade Tech or comp tech. Blade Tech has them in stock and can ship with in the week. Remove the DO, drop and offset, and you can use it for IDPA. The Safari is the cadillac. I just picked one up and the interior of the Kydex is lined with leather so much easier on the gun and quality is second to none. For limited or Open Manny Bragg has the best one that I have seen or used.http://www.mannyusa.com/Firearms_Training/product/Futuristic_Magnetic.html The gun is held in maganitiacaly for the guns that are metal and by the rail for the others like the MP. They will not fall out, they lock down, they are really nice, fast and secure. Tactical? At holsterops.com, Bill Rogers (inventor of the Safairland and all Kydex holsters), has a new paddle, quick detach, single strap thigh rig that everyone, SEAL, SWAT, US Defense Dept. guys and US Marshals were using last week and we all loved them. http://www.holsterops.com Then there is Raven.

So is N-320 wst_n320.pdf The savings are now down to -$40.91 for that 10K rounds... Later, Chuck Absolutely, the price in powder is minimal in the grand scheme of things, but it is about 35% more expensive for the powder itself. 1.5 cents vs 1 cent in powder really is not huge, but on a percentage basis it is. Secondly, I can get WST/WSF and almost any powder besides VV locally, so no shipping and no hazmat. Then by all means go buy and use inferior stuff, BTW we were talking to the OP. Really..... IMO if your counting $50.00 here and $100.00 there and it really is that big of a deal for you your most likely in the wrong sport. Guns and shooting are relatively inexpensive in the scope of things, at least for me. You know what they say, if you have to ask how much.....

It is for me, and many, many, others. Cleanest powder, cooler than TG, soft, burns well, loads well, doesn't smoke, meters well, accurate, works with all bullets, IMHO the best 9mm minor powder but I don't want to start that topic again ;') Try it yourself. The folks that will argue it their only objection seems to be cost and availably like $6.00/1000 is some kind of huge amount and buying in 6 month or 1 year quantity removes any availability problems which I have not had. I have had a harder time getting primers than powder.

It probably is small potatoes to some people here, butttt... ASSuming you shoot 10,000 rounds per year, reloading with WST saves you $60 a year... That's 2,000 primers ... Or a tank of gas. Yep to have the best for $6.00/ 1000? Yep simply a waste of time when you all waste that much weekly in smokes, chew, beer, shipping, Haz Mat, Starbucks, magazines, internet fees, games, girls, booze and millions of other things.

Trident, How was this gun doing before the barrel change? (stock barrel) What bullet brand are you using? Deciding if I need to buy an aftermarket barrel for mine. thanks I would have your gun fired by a GM or other "expert" not your friend or fellow range mate to remove the operator from the equation. I just spent a week with SEAL T6 weapons instructors and Bill Rogers shooting over a dozen MP9's. In capable hands the MP's shoot -1". Ever gun these guns shot the Sigs, MP's, Glocks, 1911's, and a few others they all shot at, or less than, 1" regardless of ammo or set up. You can always send it to Bill Rogers or Dawson or visit Manny Bragg or one of several others. Then, and only then, will you know without a doubt. You also can maybe even try a KKM and see if it really makes a difference for you. The cost of the KKM is cheap and if you find that you shoot the same you can always sell it for what you paid for it to the next guy who thinks he can buy tighter groups. Buy the KKM but that said, I'm confident that your OEM barrel will shoot 2" or less with the factory barrel in good condition. I'm now convinced, more than ever, it is more the indian than the arrow in most of the cases. The above target was shot with Berries HBRN 124g but 124g MG will do the same and I bet that MG 147 would be better.

$9.00 / 1000 or a penny a round BTW, not sure WST would be a great, or even a good, 9mm powder, even Winchester says so. BTW, 124FMJ = 4.3-4.4 N320 MP Pro 9 @ 1.130 135PF

Nope, I didn't say that you did. I'm not a GM. But, instead of trying everything under the sun only to get frustrated why not try the largest and most likely cause and eliminate that first, then look at the other issues.

Start with removing one ring on the spring. I removed 1.5. You can also add the washer and roller bearing under the bolt that hold the plate on as that seems to help as well. I also tend to place the bullet on top of the shell mid stroke before the indent which stops all of it. N320 really is not that much more expensive when you look at the big picture. I do not consider a few dollars a thousand a big difference as it is really one of the smallest parts of the whole equation. One that can be made up varies ways like in shipping, buying by the case, haz mat fees ext...... For the MG 124g JHP I use 4.3g N320 @1.130 in MP9 Pro.

After a lot of testing and trying different things. Here is my MP 9 Pro w/KKM barrel loaded with 124g RN 4.3g N320 @ 1.130 at 25 yards freestyle. My bet is that most all the problems Im reading about are shooter issues. Have your gun fired by a GM or better and see what you get. I'm now done messing with mine.

After a lot of testing and trying different things. Here is my MP 9 Pro w/KKM barrel loaded with 124g RN 4.3g N320 @ 1.130 at 25 yards freestyle. Enough said.

Always gauge al your rounds and you will find all the 380's, cracked, split, & blown brass as well.

For S&W MP Pro 9 Magazine Max OAL = 1.180 Stock Barrel Max Chamber length for MG 124g CMJ = 1.198 Max Chamber length for MG 124g JHP = 1.153 Max Chamber length for MG 147g CMJ = 1.184 KKM Barrel Max Chamber length for MG 115g JHP = 1.155 Max Chamber length for MG 124g CMJ= 1.228 Max Chamber length for MG 124g JHP = 1.182 Max Chamber length for MG 147g CMJ = 1.220