Dirty Rod

I'm not sure what brand of dies or press you are using but a resizing die has two functions. The first is to resize the brass all the way down to the base and push the shoulder back so there is proper headspacing. To get the brass resized properly, you normally need to screw the die down until it touches the shellplate (with the ram raised) and most people then screw it down another quarter to a half turn. There are some variations for folks doing neck sizing or sizing for precision bolt guns but normally that's how the resizer is set. I case gauge will tell you if you have it set right. The decapper generally can be adjusted separately. Usually you can loosen a top nut and screw the decapper down farther without messing with the resizing adjustment.

As mentioned, OAL selection is about finding a length that will feed reliably. As an example, I have six .45s that will reliably feed anything FMJ from 1.250-1.275, one that won't feed shorter than 1.256, and another that wont feed longer that 1.270. My LB has a really short ejection port so when clearing the chamber, rounds longer than 1.268 get stuck. My magic range then is 1.256 to 1.268 so I set my dies to 1.262 with Berrys. Some brands of bullets run a few thou shorter and some longer but that one die setting works in all my guns. Turns out that most of the factory ammo I measured comes in between 1.260 and 1.265 anyway. You also have keep in mind that different reloading manuals test different lengths so there is no real "standard" just a max/min range. I don't load .40 but 1.18 and 1.125 is a pretty big difference so make sure you are comparing the same bullet type.

The Hornady and Lee dies work fine in a 550.

OAL is about reliable feeding. Most manuals list what was tested which MIGHT be max length but that's not always the case. You can look up the max and min spec for those calibers and then mimic what's tested to be safe. What I usually suggest is to measure some factory ammo that feeds well in your gun and start with that. As long as that isn't much shorter than what's listed in your reloading manual you will be fine. You do want to understand max and min and work up your loads if you are going shorter than what's listed though.

While I try to keep my measures pretty full, I've tested with several powders and, with ball powders, I get consistent drops all the way down to the measure is almost empty. With flake and stick powders, I don't see variations until it's down to the metal. As to mixing, as mentioned, at some point you are going to have to add powder which means mixing. I've heard from some really bench rest shooters that different lots can run a little hotter or colder and I've seen some slight velocity changes at the chrono but I don't have the skill for 5-10fps to matter especially at pistol distances. Some BR shooters mix large powder lots together for more uniformity but eventually you will run out and have to freak open a new keg.

I hear you. My 9 and 45 EGW gauges are fine but both .223 gauges I have reject ammo that is fine in my Dillon gauge and my chambers so I've been on the hunt for someone else's .223 gauge. I'll take a look at the Hundos.

While the GI is certainly a lower priced model I'd suggest renting or borrowing one to make sure that it works for you. For many of us with larger hands, a beavertail is a necessity on a 1911. I'd also throw out that if you are looking at a $400 GI and intend to add an ambi or upgrade the GI sights, which may require milling the slide depending on the sights you want, you are probably in the $500-$550 range which puts you pretty close to a used Springfield Loaded which has the ambi, sights, lots of other upgrades, and a lifetime warranty. The last two I bought were $550 and $600. Just something to consider.

Welcome from Phx.

Even with the Skylight and the LED strip it's still pretty hard to see in a .223 case.

I have the 7 round EGW gauges and do every round. Normally I do batches of 500-600 while sitting in front of the TV.

Stick and flake powders are not going to meter as well as ball powders. Some folks polish the inside of the powder measure but that didn't make any difference on mine. Even with a very smooth and consistent stroke I still got the occasional .3-.4 variance when my ball powders were consistently +/- .1.

How tight are you setting the screws for the primer assembly? If I make them really tight I get what you are getting. If I just make them snug I get 800-1000 before the slide needs to be cleaned.

Well "best" is going to be subjective but, if you have the coin, then take a look at the Redding Competition dies, Forster, and there are a couple of custom die manufacturers out there including Hawks and JLC.

+1. When I shoot targets up on a hill I have to use a 9-13. At the flat range it's the 6-9.

You don't have to lube pistol brass but I'd try a batch and see how it feels on the handle. I started using One Shot a few years ago and It definitely helps.

+1

Both companies make several models. Have you figured out which specs you want (Full size/Commander/Compact, night sights/target, finish, range gun/carry, etc, etc. I'd focus on specs and then pick the brand and model rather than the other way around.

+1. Ball powders do better than flake and stick powders.

Any major brand of dies will work. After you've used a few brands you will probably find features from different brands you prefer. The ability to do micro adjustments on the Hornady and Lee seater dies without breaking out the wrench, for instance, is a great feature if you use multiple brands of bullets. Dillon sizing dies do have a really nice bevel on the bottom of the sizing die which helps with cases that aren't perfectly aligned and they do come apart easily for cleaning.

I'm with you. 800 pistol rounds, 200 rifle, plus shotgun. Thank God I reload!

A 550 will definitely do it for .308 but which press depends on how much volume you need. Since you probably aren't going for ultimate accuracy with the FAL just about any major brand of die will work however an adjustable seating die is a good feature to have if you are using different bullets. Also, since rifle brass requires trimming, you will definitely need a trimmer.

I don't see it but others have reported various degrees of setback when chambering. I've probably loaded 20-30k plated bullets from Xtreme, Berriers, and Ranier and I chambered a couple rounds 10 times and got maybe .002. The folks that do report it normally report more than what you are seeing. I probably wouldn't worry about .001-.003. I get that much variation in just the bullets themselves.

The WFT has lots of fans but it wasn't for me. I couldn't get consistent lengths and when I had to cut a lot of material it would snag and cut unevenly. Some calibers were better than others for me but it does throw shavings. I ended up selling them and going back to the RCBS Trim Pro. No experience with the Giraud.

Yup. I get better accuracy from CFE than I got with TAC and Varget plus it meters very well out of my Dillon powder measures.

MG or PD. I get great results from Berrys as well.