Dirty Rod

The only mags I've replaced are a few factory mags that split. Some of my WC mags are about 20 years old and I plan to make use of the lifetime warranty of they do fail. The mag springs last about 6k rounds though.

Good to hear.

Drove by Dillon Precision this morning and the store was gone. The sign was still up but the place was empty. I saw the old presses, counter, etc set up in a side room behind a door marked "Employees Only". They remodeling or is the onsite retail store gone for good?

I have not been as fortunate at warpspeed. While I can consistently stay within variances of +/- .1gr with other types of powders I get the occasional .3 variances with Varget no matter how smooth and consistent I am with the handle.

44.5gr of Varget Black Hills Gold brass @ 2.800. 2,661 fps

You can just change the stock but why not buy the BDL? Another option is to look at a conversion kit if you go with the ADL. Years ago I sent my stock to CDI precision and they converted it to use AI .308 mags. Very good option if you don't to do it yourself. If you go that route I would definitely invest in a better stock versus converting the factory stock. Just my suggestion.

Congrats. Yup, eventually most folks figure out that it's best to do the final adjustment on your dies with the shell plate fully loaded. One other tidbit I will toss out is that you shouldn't get caught up trying to hit that OAL right on the nose but give yourself a range. Bullets will vary by +/- .003 and even more if you change brands. I set an OAL that will feed with +/- .005 and call it good and then I'm not constantly resetting dies. Another wonderful invention is the micrometer seating die.

Misunderstood the question. Ignore.

+1. Whether it's my Kimbers or Springers, Baer, Dads Wilson, or my full custom they all get cleaned the same. With round counts between 10k and 60k they all shoot accurately and function reliably.

That's what I have seen on both of my 550s. If I back off the bolt on the shellplate about a quarter turn it raises the shellplate up enough so that I can rotate the plate without hitting the primer in the cup but, as mentioned, the primers don't seat as well.

They don't typically do ad hoc tours but call and check. You never know. The shop is North of the 10. Take the 10 to the 101 North and get off on Frank Lloyd Wright and go West. Google of course will take you right to it.

I live pretty close to Dillon and dropped mine off for a rebuild a year or so back. I think it took about a week for them to finish the rebuild. It ran $49 and I've heard recent reports of about the same price plus shipping which put it around the $70 mentioned above.

No issues. You will have a toolhead for each caliber and each will be configured for the specific caliber. No need to upgrade the older measure. It will work just like it does today.

Agree. I've got them on both my 550s. Money well spent.

A little more info. Which die is giving you issues (sizing, seater,etc)? You setting it up on a single stage, progressive, etc?

Congrats!!

I had the same issue, especially with 9, but my problem was that the primers were bouncing off the back top edge of the primer cup and ending up on the floor or bench. After beveling the decaping pin didn't get them to fall straight down I created a little shroud to solve the problem.

I've used Wilson BP extractors for years. Good stuff.

Congrats!!!

Does that include shipping? I was local so $49 was dropping it off and picking it up. It's only been 12-18 months since I had it done so curious if the price went up.

I believe Dillon charged me $49 to refresh one of mine but that did not include the zerks. It's a nice option but not something I'd spend money on. Why does it need a refresh after only 10k? The one I sent in was probably around 250k and had been neglected by the first owner. My other is almost there but still doesn't need a rebuild and I'm sure there are quiet a few over a million that haven't been rebuilt.

Amazon or EBay for me.

+1. I broke 2 in one year (Franklin , Lyman) until I figured that out. My RCBS has lasted several years since.

If your load is 8.5 and those 12 are 6.6 then you should pull them and reload them. They aren't going to shoot like the others so why waste bullets and powder?

Sorting brass only makes sense if you are looking for every bit of precision you can get which probably includes weighing each charge. For plinking, games, and general stuff most folks do not separate head stamps for pistol. On variances, you will see a couple thousandths variance in the cases as well as the bullets. I generally see +/- .004 on my completed rounds. On accuracy, you can go as deep as you want. Getting a chrono and measuring velocities, ES, and SD will let you look at how consistent your loads are however many of us ran for years just looking at the target to judge accuracy.