cautery

I bought a used/re-worked Rem 1100 for $250. Had the barrel threaded for chokes and bought 7 chokes from/by AnglePort for less than $200.00. I currently use it for sporting, and will add an extended tube for 3-gun.

Below is a link to the "bike" section of my old website. I put this bike together almost 8 years ago... Sheesh! Doesn't seem that long. Still have it, still looks the same.... except for the dust. My Bike To see any of the sub-sections, you'll have to edit the URLs to add the "old/" before the mtb/ in the URL window when you get the 404 error. Sorry.

OAL for 40 S&W is either 1.125 or 1.126" depending on your reference. Glock mags are typically restricted to an OAL of 1.135" MAX to function reliably.

Is there any interest in a CD containing printer-ready files of ALL IPSC and Steel Challenge targets.... accurate ones? I looked at the Glock FAQ version of the 1/3 scale metric, and it's not very accurate or realistic. So, I am just about finished making a file with the full scale metric target that is EXTREMELY accurate. I am experimenting with the proper line width, simulated perf pattern, lettering positioning, non-scoring border for cut-out, coloring, etc. I'm also looking into finding/getting a sheet stock of a good approximation of the brown paper. I plan on making full-scale files for all targets, plates, poppers, steel, etc (including the IPSC Classic). My idea is to produce a CD kit that contains: 1) A directory for each target containing various scale-target size template files that will accurately print out with minimal or no printer variations. (e.g. 1:1, 1:2, 1:3, 1:4, ..... 1:10, etc.) 2) Instructions including the math required to scale the 1:1 templates to any apparent distance based on any actual distance. 3) Starter pack of paper stock to print the templates out in a "near realistic" color/texture. 4) For steel challenge stages, each stage will have its own directory. Within each directory, will be scaling sub-directories. For example. Smoke-n-Hope directory would contain 1:1, 1:2, etc sub-directories. In each directory, there would be files for each plate properly scaled for the correct apparent distance. Making the uber-accurate masters is VERY time consuming, but necessary to achieve a good result. If there is sufficient interest, I will pursue the proper procedures with USPSA to make sure what is produced is properly credited/licensed, or whatever is necessary.

Yup... Can't really have too many mags... I think I have somethinglike 15 Model 41 mags now... It's also nice to add base pads to them to make mag changes easier...

Never had the opportunity to shoot SC, but we might go this year.... I'd shoot my STC Pistol (S&W Model 41 with Clark Custom Guns barrel and AimPoint).

Mmmm.... Front or back makes little difference in this case.... IF they apply the law. The two men were fleeing felons... So besides protecting property, he was stopping the felons from fleeing. These two guys were actually double felons.... Illegally in the country AND felony burglary... Only way the guy would really be in any real trouble would be if he shot them in the chest while they were standing still WITH their HANDS UP. I'm pretty familiar with the area. I am SURE those folks down there are getting danged tired of scumbags breaking into their homes and stealing from them. "Stop" a few more criminals like that, and the word starts to get around.... THAT will "deter" crime. And it doesn't cause prison over-crowding.

Ideally, the "crimp" would not leave ANY mark on the bullet. Strictly speaking, there really isn't a "crimp" in a straight-wall pistol case. The "crimp" is only there to remove the belling. The belling is only there to prevent bullet damage when seating... So... bell the mouth only enough to seat the bullet without damage (shaving et al.), crimp only as much as required to hold the bullet in place and such that the round will function reliably. The crimp required should be significantly less than that required to deform a copper jacketed bullet. Even on my 1050, where I am working fast, the case mouth belling is almost undetectable to the naked-eye. Of couse, I don't try to balance the bullet on the case anymore. I hold it in place until the die "takes" it, and I HAVE to pull my fingers away. I DO NOT recommend this procedure for anyone. I do it because I recognize and accept the risk of the occasional pinch. Of course, there are LOTS of things that are "ideal". Ideally, the straight-wall pistol case should headspace on the mouth of the case. MOST of the time they don't (they typically "headspace" on the extractor). Typically, over-crimping (at least at less than a full roll-crimp) shouldn't really get into a pressure safety issue. More likely that it will be more of an accuracy deal. Bottom line.... minimum crimp required to get proper function. More important is a CONSISTENT crimp from round to round that does not deform the bullet at all. But, consistency WILL suffer in a lot of hand-loaded ammo due to: 1) Not all cases are the same length. Resize your typical batch of cases. Then measure them... You can often have a surprising spread between the shortest to longest case. Short cases will be crimped less than long cases. 2) Not all cases have the same case wall thickness. Cases with thinner walls will be crimped less for a given crimp setting. All other things being equal, IDEAL crimp consistency can only be achieved by having all cases in a lot loaded from cases of identical length AND case-wall thickness. I HAVE been known to sort/trim cases to get them all the same length for certain accuracy testing. However, as freakily picky as I am, even I don't sort by case-wall thickness.... though I DO load by sorted head-stamp, which tends to mitigate wall thickness extremes.

I have a LEER on my 2004 Heritage (F150) and got all the options other than the modular load system on top. I love the top... good layup quality and the paint was a perfect match. The ONLY thing I didn't end up being happy with was the clothes hangers. My fault really. I overloaded them and they broke. I got warranty replacements, but now use a stainless steel shower rod when I have a lot of clothes to carry. Get the solenoid lift gate lock release! I researched them all... Leer is the best all round for looks and all. If you don't need the sleek fit, ARE has better choices for tool boxes et all... Jerry Miculek's setup is very cool... and it's an ARE I believe...

Stared at that " There are 0 people... who have not been offered a slot..." message for a very long time. It was certainly a welcome change to see the wait list slot offer message. My first Nationals as a shooter... Looking forward to it! See y'all in Tulsa!!

I just diagnosed two G22's yesterday that were locking back with rounds left.... G22 #1 - Police Duty weapon: Slide stop spring was sheared off forward of the locking block pin and the slide stop was literally flipping up under recoil. Secondarily, the locking block pin had snapped in two. Department armorer replaced both parts. This was the 3rd or 4th time the locking block pin had snapped... Recommended that the locking block be replaced, but it was not. G22 #2 - Personal weapon: Weapon locking back on other than empty mag... Slide stop spring end was not under the locking block pin. Removed trigger pin, slide stop, and locking block pin. Replaced locking block pin, slide stop, and trigger pin IN THAT ORDER making sure spring was properly located. Both weapons functioning correctly...

Spybot S&D - http://www.safer-networking.org/en/download/index.html Install it, use the initial install wizard, registry backup, update, etc... routine. Be sure to run the immunize, and setup the IE to disallow changes... Also, allow it to block bad pages in IE. Then run Spybot and allow it to find all the trojans, worms, etc... I'll almost guarantee that you'll need to run it multiple times to get them all... and likely it will need to reboot a couple of times to get some of them. Turn on anti-phishing and other security features on IE after the computer is clean and BEFORE you actually run IE again.... After you have the computer "clean" again..... Switch to Mozilla Firefox 2.0+ and your problems will be drastically reduced. I ONLY use IE for Microsoft Update and the few sites that REQUIRE its use. PS - The learning curve is a little tough, but I would advise using the Zone Alarm suite on your PC... It will keep virtually everything unintended off your PC if setup right. And once it has "learned" your setup, you will only see warnings when something bad is happening or when you are changing something on purpose.... But still run Spybot S&D periodically.

I've been taking private dance instruction now for some months, and the "physics" side of me has become very interested in the mechanics of body movement... especially as to the application to our game. It is my opinion that many of the principles of dance movement transfer well to movement in our game.... whether it be target transition or movement from position to position. In dance, the concept of fixing your eyes on the place you want your body to index on is called "spotting". Not only does it allow you to complete the movement faster, it is absolutely essential for maintaining balance/precision. Since you are moving, you are disturbing the fluid in the semi-circular canals, and moving the ball(s) of the feet. As such, the only remaining balance tool you have functioning during movement is the focus of the eye. With the eyes sharply focused on a stationary spot, you have a point of reference for balance. In a turn/spin, the eyes spot, then the head leads the rest of the body in a torquing motion. In our game, since the desirable goal is to keep the sighting relationship constant during transition, the head/shoulders/arms should usually turn as a unit to lock on at the next "spot". However, I suspect that in a situation like the turn and draw of the El Prez or other up-range start, a classic spot-n-spin technique could cut some serious time off the first shot. (e.g. the eyes lead the head, the head seeks/locks with the eyes to spot the first POI, and the shoulders and body follow in a classic spin (or pivot)). As soon as the body settles, you break the shot... I've got a couple of other observations on balance and movement that I think are interesting, but I think I'll put them in a separate thread to see what y'all think about them.

Mine just came back at #5..... Whew! Must have been reloading a data file or something....

I was up to #5 and now mine is gone too. I'm sure they'll get it fixed, but it DOES make me VERY nervous!!!

I saw where Rob or Kim mentioned that they might be able to immediately offer some slots. I suspect they had a few slots that had already been turned back in... and they put those out on the wait list... I'm down from #14 to #6 on the list. It MAY be until the slot deadline now before the numbers start decreasing again. So I suspect that on Monday evening or Tuesday morning, a bunch more slots will become available. And then of course they'll trickle back in as the 5 day clocks expire on the reissued wait list slots that aren't exercised.

Glad you got through! Looks to me like this match is going to be filled pretty quickly. Glad I stayed up.

Keep banging on it... You'll eventually get through.

Well... the wait list did in fact go active right at midnight. Great job Rob! Thanks! I had mine through in about 5 seconds after the 2400hrs turn-on. Of course the server is basically slammed now dealing with all the requests... Wow... I'm down at #14 on the Limited list... thought I had a pretty good draw on this one...

As I remember it, 3.2 beer is in the stores, but you can get 6.0 beer in liquor stores.... Don't know about the hotel and clubs... I don't drink a lot of beer anymore.

They will continue to do so until I reload the .com portion of my server. Go to: http://www.montac.net/ and then surf to whatever article you need to see... Sorry for the confusion... I'm working and don't have time to update the original links. And those links will be good again when I have time to reload montac.com...

Hey Y'all... Life gets in the way. Haven't made any further progress on making these available, but the articles should be available at the same links on montac.net I changed hosting companies, but haven't reloaded the main site.

Well, there really isn't an "easy" path for anything related to getting a trigger pin bushing installed... That's ONE of the reasons it has taken me so long to get these available. The trigger needs to be drilled very precisely (in position AND size), thus the drill jig stability and fit were critical... "Critical"=$$$ when making jigs... Anyway... Hopefully, right after the first of the year, I should be ready to get moving on these again.

I'm a work too, so I don't have a lot of time... but. NO... The trigger pin bushing is absolutely NOT visible externally. IF this is the only criteria that is used, then the mod would be production legal. Off hand, I can't think of any reasoning that would make it illegal.... but I obviously don't make/interpret the rules.

Well, it looks like I am going to have to get off my 4th point of contact and get back to this project. Flex, I've got a pretty good chunk of change invested in that jig design, so I'd prefer not to give it away. Sorry for getting distracted this past season. I'll be getting back into the shop at the 1st of the year... 2007 = less play; more work.