cautery

If you are going to use tape... Use something with an adhesive tack that works better with the polymer you are about to apply it to... MOST electrical tape doesn't like to stick to Glock polymer...

Thanks Joe D - That confirms my comment from 1 OCT at 0917hrs in this thread where I theorized that cutting some material off that face would help. Nice to know someone has actually done it successfully. Shoot the Glock with the Dawsons for a little while... You'd like them.

I suppose they could... Never seen it advertised by anyone though. And I suspect most of the smiths have the Bomar thing down to a science... if not programmed into their CNCs...

I might give it a try... I guess I'm gonna have to buy a THE magwell anyway to try anyway, since I can't find anyone with a spare/one they aren;t using (I have a filled/milled back channel that will require either modding a THE et al (brazing/redrilling the mounting holes, and putting threaded inserts in the solid back channel), or going with a moulded polymer well from Caylor... Might as well try the stop too...

No problem... I'm using Dawson pads... When I first put them in, 18 was pretty much tops. Now, they all do 19.... And I have #6 followers... I normally don't load them over 18 unless I have to have the extra round... much harder to seat the mag with 19... Now here's the weird part... On a stage at te North texas Sectional, I had a situation where I needed 20 rounds to avoid a standing reload.... So I loaded my #1 mag with 19 (I thought) rounds... On LAMR, I stripped a round off mag #4 to the chamber and seated mag #1... Now, if everything went as planned, I'd shoot to slide lock and do a reload on the move... So, I shoot, drop the mag as I start to move, and seat the next mag... But when I went to drop the slide it was already down... So, it cost me a sec to decide if it dropped on any empty chamber... I decided to pull anyway, and it fired... So apparently, it is possible to load 20... ONCE. Later in the match I had a BUNCH of trouble with that mag failing to feed... I suspect that I toasted the mag spring loading it to 20... 18 reliable, 19 when you have to have... 20 if you have money to burn on one-time use springs... I don't.

I've seen those. I'd like to try one... Kinda kludgy looking though.

Man... let this one go a while. OK... Installed the 0.300" front blade. This gave just enough to get the POI/POA the same at 25 yards.... actually with a few clicks to spare. Think I'm going to go ahead and put a melted Bomar rear on this winter, so I can get the zero closer to mechanical zero.... and use a shorter front blade. BTW, the folks at Dawson are simply cool people to deal with...

OK... I've shortened the nose of the extractor, but the gap is still huge between the extractor hook and the case groove face it should be holding... Extractor is the culprit in kicking the round sideways.... Rounds still lipping the side of the chamber when feeding... This IS going to cause a malfunction at some point... Frankly, I haven't been able to work on reducing the recoil spring weight any due to this issue. Afraid a weaker spring will allow a stoppage. Ejector is fine actually... Just need to lengthen it a bit. Really need some ideas on how to fix this... If it wasn't such a complex part, I'd have one made...

OK... Here's an update. I scrapped the scheduled test due to a couple of factors: 1) Couldn't get the chrono to work reliably, and 2) It was bothering me that I couldn't load any longer than 1.119" or so using the PD bullets with my prototype barrel. Well, I got my shipment of Montana Gold 180gr. FMJ today... And just as I figured, I can load much longer with them. In fact, I can load to right at 1.154" with zero rifling contact (using the drop and spin method). Of course, I can't load more than 1.150" max in my mags without having problems, so I'll have a little more than 0.004" jump... but that's a lot less than the 0.105" jump on a stock barrel. As soon as I get some spare time, I'll get back to testing on this...

OK... I am an incurable tinkerer. I can't leave anything alone. I have/had a modified RS trigger kit in my G35... and it's a great product by the way! I started with all of his parts... (2lb-8oz) then I put my 3.5 connector back in because I had done a lot more than polishing on it... specifically, it was completely stoned to make sure it was flat before polishing. (2lb-4oz) Then, I put my trigger bar back in after modifying it with a higher trigger spring hole, again, because I had stoned critical portions of it flat before polishing.... Note here: Before I put it back in, I reground the face where it engages the striker to give it a nice crisp edge... Then stoned it smooth (3 grades), then polished it mirror bright (cut and color). (2lb even). I've put some 2000 rounds (mostly reloads) through it without a single failure to fire... not a single light strike. Now, I was still using the reduced power striker spring and replacement trigger spring from the RS trigger kit. Then, I added a pre-travel set screw, and radically reduced my pre-travel. The drop safety still works fine; after shortening it further, the trigger safety works fine; and since it has been set, I haven't had a single failure to reset. Then, I got to thinking that at some point, that (Wolf?) reduced power striker spring MIGHT weaken and cause problems... It probably wouldn't, but having that thought in the back of my mind isn't good for competition mindset... So I set about to figure a way to use the stock spring... Not only will it yield more margin on primer ignition, stock springs are always available and cheaper... I tried a couple of hand made springs from stock I had left over from years ago, but it's too danged hard to make the end loops... So, I made the decision to get a spring machine and got a ton of different stocks to play with... After a lot of trial and error and note taking, I am proud to say that I managed to find the exact right combination of wire diameter, overall spring diameter, and length such that I can use the stock Glock striker spring and get a sweet trigger pull weight... Smooth and light at 1lb 14.25oz!! And I still have a reliable reset! Still haven't figured out any way to improve on the Sotelo drop safety plunger... Still using it and the spring. Now the trigger is just about complete... As soon as I figure out how to make a good overtravel solution... I've already tried two, but neither of them address the spongy feel in the overtravel due to trigger bar flex... and seem to have an issue with the drop safety plunger depressor on the trigger bar catching/rubbing too much on the slide. Oh... and I have one more cool trigger mod coming to tell y'all about soon.. probably about mid-November... if my machinist will quit worrying about making those F-18 parts and get my order done.

Well Flex, you've read my "Trigger Weight: Putting your trigger on a diet!" article right. I just bought one of those fancy, schmancy digital trigger pull weight scales a few weeks ago. While I don't really doubt the accuracy of the scale itself, I DO doubt the accuracy of measurements with it (mostly repeatability/consistency) when used "hand held". You already hinted at one of the major issues for our Glocks: the angle change during the pull through. Here's a list of things off the top of my head that make hand holding the trigger scale less than desirable (on Glocks at least): 1) On a STOCK trigger system, the pull through angle changes radically from start to finish. As stated, you often have to pull "down" or at an angle to the plane parallel to the long axis of the slide. 2) Because of the long pre-travel, and the starting angle, it is hard to get the trigger scale rod to ride in the same place throughout the pull or from one pull to the next. 3) IF you pull from the tip, the scale usually rides on the tigger guard for part of the pull which adds artificial drag to the pull as long as the scale is in contact with the trigger guard. (Not to mention that the additional lever lenght artificially reduces the actual pull weight when there is no contact with the guard). 4) If the scale is pulling at ANY angle other than exactly parallel to the long axis of the slide, you are not getting a true reading, and thus the reading cannot be compared to any other reading. 5) Pulling through anywhere but the center of the trigger gives a less than accurate result... Your finger neither pulls through on the tip or up at the top of the trigger safety... If your finger WERE pulling at the tip, (or 3/4 down) it would be dragging on the trigger guard.... no one wants that becasue it's slow. 6) The trigger safety gets in the way of most conventional trigger scales... 7) Pulling through with the scale by hand is a woefully innacurate way to measure pull weight. No matter how good you are, you risk inconsistent pull angles and over/under readings due to the inconsistent nature of the human pulling mechanism... ie: hand. ... and a lot more that I can't come up with right now. <begin anal retentive mode> OK... Here's the way "I" think a trigger pull weight should be determined... 1) The pistol needs to be held static (like in a vice or jig) with the long axiz of the slide EXACTLY perpendicular to the ground.... Gravity acts in toward the center of the Earth... This gives you a consistent starting point for the measurement process. 2) IDEALLY, you would want to use dead weight to create the pull... e.g. like in my article using brass cases... about 74gr per piece. You figure out the dead weight, then measure it on a good balance beam or other lab quality scale... This gets you the best apples to apples comparison, as balance beam scales if zeroed are all pretty close to each other... especially O'Haus or better triple bemas. However, trigger scales are widely used, and can be used fairly accurately IF you make sure they are accurate within the range you are measuring.... the best way to do this is to suspend a known weight (standard) from the scale vertically to make sure it is accurate. 3) Now... to use a trigger scale, first you have to make sure it will ride in the center of the trigger during the whole test... You can tape (or otherwise fix/disable) the trigger safety down (better if it has been shaped to be flush with trigger when depressed). 4) Next, on trigger scales with those rollers on them... need to take it off. The rod is smaller in diameter and makes a better pivot point. 5) You need to find the center of the trigger and mark it for lining up the rod on the mark/center of the trigger. 6) Then you need to create stops fore and aft of the ma rk to keep the rod in place. Ideally, these need to be hard and have a high lubricity... like Delrin or Teflon. I used masking tape in my article. It'll work, but there is a minute amount of drag. 7) The deal with using the rod, is that you have to worry about keeping it exactly vertical (parallel) to the pistol... This is hard to do considering it was not designed to be balanced... A better way, it to make a cross rod (balance rod) with a harness below it to hang the scale (or weight package) on. If the rod is on your mark and exactly parallel to the ground, you know you are pulling straight through every time. (Note: I put a sight notch on mine, so I could measure total trigger pull length and graph pull points vs. weight applied... This allows you to find hitches in the pull and address them to get a smooth even pull). 8) Now... Using a scale this way, you can leave the roller on it, because it can be used to hand the scale on the rod harness... 9) You need to have a hook or some other mechanism onto which you can attach a weight package... You COULD just pull it with your hand, but as I said, this is inconsitent... a waste really. 10) To the hook on the bottom of the scale you attach your weight package... It will weigh something (make it light... like a ziplock baggy with a coat hanger top frame to hold it open. 11) Now using brass cases, or some thing else with a small weight per unit, add weight (measure pull distance and weight as you go if you like) until the trigger breaks... Whatever the weight reads on the scale is your pull weight... If you are careful toward the end, and don't drop weights into the package, you should get a very accurate and repeatable measurement... </end anal retentive mode> As I have pointed out before, I am convinced that many of the figures quoted from trigger scales tend to be innacurate, and possibly/probably understated... spring scales are notoriously inaccurate... load cell scales are much better... BUT, gravity does not lie... If you use dead weight, and then measure that weight with a good balance or balance beam scale, you get a much more reliable figure.

It appears the results posted on the Junior site's front page are from last year. Anyone heard if the results are posted? The drawing was supposed to be on the 1st.

Carina... Just wish I'd a been a little quicker on the draw. Waitress kinda snuck up on me, so I had a few "Mikes" on that stage. Thanks for setting up the reservation; I had a wonderful time. We'll have to make it a regular thing... I suspect we'll need double the seats next time around. BigLucky... Thanks for the recommendation! You know your "cow"! MLCC will be a regular way point for me from now on when I'm in Wichita Falls. Robert... No thanks necesary. It was great that you and Tiffani were able to make it to the dinner. Gimme a holler in March if you need some help. As for my stats... I'll be better in March '06. (Not like I have anywhere else to go but up.) To everyone wo had a hand in making this match happen... Your contributions to the match are sincerely appreciated. It takes a special kind of folks to step up and make a big event happen. You should all take pride in a job well done! To the members of Squad #1... It was a priviledge and a great opportunity shooting with you all. I had a great time, and appreciate the patience, advice, et al. you all extended to me... (and of course, keeping the snickering down to a bare minimum.) Once again, I have to say that USPSA shooters as a whole are the friendliest, most polite folks there are, and it's a pleasure to spend time with you all. Hope to see you all again soon!

I wanna play too, but I guess I'll have to hunt up a holster for the G35 that isn't classified a "race rig".

Here it is: http://www.tdsa.net/cgi-bin/ikonboard.cgi?;act=ST;f=30;t=8

I really dig my CR Speed gear... Pop for the Versa-Pouches though. And do a search in the Gear Forum for my thread on how to do the set screw thing on the holster and/or mag pouches... I've got 600 rounds on the gear since I did the set screws, and everything is EXACTLY the same... I am intrigued however by those new Glock pouches that rsotelo posted about. I'd love to try them out... PS - That's 600 rounds on the set screws with NO thread locker on them... I don't think it really needs it... However, once I am sure I have everything exactly where I want it, I will probably thread lock it for "peace of mind"...

Any chance y'all will have the entry forms at the North Texas Sectional this weekend?

Well, it's not like you need a barber certification to do my "hair style".... Basically, set the clipper head to skin level and shave off all that will come off.

I've had Wahl, Oster, Conair, and a bunch of non-name brand clippers in my day. While there is no substitute for a top of the line clipper,I have been pleasantly surprised by the performance I've gotten out of my current Conair kit.... Of course, I don't use any of the guards or gadgets... The clipper is Model# TC360GDC Course, the next time I start looking again, I will again start looking at the barber supply shop for a commercial version.

Personally I like my PACT scale and powder dispenser...

Sure would be nice to be able to fit longer rounds in the mag though...

I don't think the additional velcro is any substitute for using set screws... Set screws are much more secure... But the additional velcro DOES seem to be the answer for better inner/outer belt lockup when you have mag pouches close together. At the TSL, I used a couple of zip ties around both belts to cinch it tight... Works, but you have to cut/replace everytime you remove your outer belt.

Neat approach. I don't need it on the inside of the holster hanger tunnel, but I might add it to the back of the hangers to get a better/more secure grab on the inner belt. Have a brand new box of the stuff somewhere...

You beat me to it! Thanks Carina... I'll definitely be there. I'm gonna run up early Friday and see if they need any help at the range.

Heh, I was wondering if I had a solution looking for a problem there for a minute. My holster was "stable" for the most part in the fore and aft, but it had a little play and could rock in place. I figured it was only a matter of time before the outer belt wore enough to let it creep... hence sets screws for it too. Drop me a line if you have any questions...