Religious Shooter

I for one hope not. Nationals has been on the wrong side of the Mississippi River for far too long. If it goes back east or anywhere out of Vegas I doubt Rensing would be a significant factor in that match. I wouldn't go. But it would be interesting to hear how the match turns out post-Rensing.

Whatever you emailed him will it survive the howling winds for two days? Is 2017 going to be in Vegas again?

Great match and stages. Thanks all for the hard work that you put in. For some of the RO's... please note that dropping the bolt on certain chamber flags will cause problems. Best to ease the bolt down on the flag. Several of my squad mates complained of having to beat at their bolt handles at make ready on the next stage. The flag had jammed up in the chamber/ejection port area. The long gun had previously been cleared and racked by an RO.

I have a Vanek on one G34 and a old GW Standard trigger (with the "extra" hole on the side of the trigger) on another G34. The Vanek I have has a long take up (which I don't prefer). The old GW Standard trigger I have isn't Production legal anymore. So looking for a USPSA Production trigger for my G34s and G22 (Gen 3's) that has little to no take-up. What trigger kits are out there that fit the bill?

I accidentally left my phone in the car. The car interior got so hot it turned itself off. Unfortunately I didn't save the data in the notepad so I lost all the chrono data I had for that day. I have left several types of pens in the car. A lot of them leak and the ink gets all over the place. All of them died prematurely. I want to be able to them leave inside my car/range bag and not have to worry about it not working or leaking due to high heat. I'm going to get mechanical pencils but also want a pen. Any specific brand/model that you have had personal experience with that you could recommend for this type of environment? Thanks.

A lot of times I come back to my club's range and I find the 200 and 280 yard MGM flashers are down. A bit of a pain in the ass to go drive down and go up the hill and set them back up. Probably 15-20 minutes to go and do. But that's 15-20 minutes of shooting before it gets dark that I'm loosing. I think the cows are the problem. They probably go rub on the targets and bring them down. Anybody else have a similar problem? How did you fix it? I was thinking of driving nails/stakes and tying the legs of the targets around them. Maybe put some barbed wire on the legs? Suggestions? Thanks.

What charge did you use with TAC? COAL? I have some TAC and Wolf SRM on hand that I'd like to try with 55's.

Wow .75 MOA with 5 shots with Wolf FMJ's! Good first post. Let us know how it does at 300 yards.

Not all "2 3/4"" shells are the same length. I have several boxes of 2 3/4" BS Estate shells that will fill up my current tube to 8 only. Switch to Walmart bird that are "2 3/4"" and all of a sudden I can put 9 in the tube. The 2 3/4" Estate shells measure 2.45" x 8 = 19.6" The 2 3/4" Rem Gun Club shells I have on hand measure 2.33" x 8 = 18.64" That's almost a full inch difference between two so called "2 3/4"" shells. Are we going to need a standard shell size too to enforce a mechanical limit on the tube?

How do you go about enforcing a rule that stipulates a tube can mechanically only hold X amount of rounds? So in addition to that you would also need to police the length of the shells that the shooter is also using?

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Personally I'd just run the whole batch of brass through the trimmer. After I tumbled the trimmed brass... then I would sort the brass. I'd pick out the head stamp(s) that I want to use for my long range load and use the rest for hoser ammo using a mid-range charge. I do a slight taper crimp with the Lee Factory Crimp Die (FCD). With a taper crimp a consistent trim to length isn't as crucial than if you roll crimped into the cannelure. And if your trim die's neck is as tight as mine... you probably don't really need to crimp.

Which Lyman do you have? http://www.midwayusa.com/product/268983/lyman-case-length-headspace-gage-223-remington http://www.midwayusa.com/product/452669/lyman-6-hole-small-rifle-cartridge-checker-gage-204-ruger-22-hornet-223-remington-22-250-remington-300-aac-blackout-762x39mm

I use the power where my BDC reticle is set at. Which is the max power of the scope.

Have two uppers with M4 hand guards that I need optic mounts for. 2-8X and 1-4X scopes. Normally use a nose to CH hold so I need the rail to be on the longer side. The PRI mounts that I have on hand are sitting on top of the hand guards and maybe pressing on it. Eyeballing the JP mount that I have... it looks like it would be worse. Anybody know of optic mount that will fit my application (without changing the hand guards)? Ideally looking for more than two screws for the mount. Mount that attaches to the receiver (not hand guard). Prefer non QD. And relatively cheap. Thanks.

When did you buy them? The 2015 reviews at Midway look very positive.

Some name brand hoser bullets are on sale for about $.07 ea: Remington: $148.99+s/h for 2K http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1601173642/remington-bullets-22-caliber-224-diameter-55-grain-full-metal-jacket Hornady: $420+s/h for 6K http://www.brownells.com/reloading/bullets/rifle-bullets/22-cal-224-55gr-fmj-bt-cannelure-6-000-case-sku100200066-55232-111802.aspx Bought some of the Remingtons to see if they are more accurate than the Hornady 55's FMJBT's I already have.

If you know someone isn't complying with the rules, did you go up to them and show them the rules?

How much did you apply? Did you just put a bead or two on the nut? Or did you cover the entire nut with it? Or? Don't want to put too much to where I can't break it. Don't want to put too little to where it comes loose. Thanks.

Leave the rule as it is.

Looking for an epoxy or glue to attach my Clark CF HG to the aluminum nut that it comes with and my HG that I pulled from an Alexander Arms built upper. The nut on that latter looks like it is plastic. For use in 3gun. So it needs to be able to take the heat generated from 3G shooting. I also want the bond to be relatively easily broken with a strap wrench when it comes time to change out the barrel. What have you guys actually used and/or recommend? Looking for specific brands and "model" # of the product. Not really looking for any other attachment methods. Thanks.

That's why I asked what rule set they were using.

I'd say it doesn't matter if it hit the berm it was an accident (shot that he didnt mean to send down range) he just got lucky it hit the berm! It does matter if it hits the berm... depending on the rules being used. USPSA rules outline what an accidental discharge is. USPSA Rules: 10.4 Match Disqualification – Accidental Discharge 10.4.1 A competitor who causes an accidental discharge must be stopped by a Range Officer as soon as possible. An accidental discharge is defined as follows: 10.4.2 A shot, which travels over a backstop, a berm or in any other direction, specified in the written stage briefing by the match organizers as being unsafe. Note that a competitor who legitimately fires a shot at a target, which then travels in an unsafe direction, will not be disqualified (the provisions of Section [2.3] may apply). 10.4.2.1 Exception- engaging flying targets with birdshot. [10.5.2] still applies. 10.4.3 A shot which strikes the ground within 10 feet of the competitor, except when shooting at a paper or frangible target closer than 10 feet to the competitor. 10.4.3.1 Exception — A bullet which strikes the ground within 10 feet of the competitor due to a “squib”. 10.4.3.2 In the case of a shot striking a prop where the bullet is deflected or does not continue to strike the ground, if the Range Official determines that the bullet would have struck the ground within 10 feet of the competitor had it not been deflected or stopped by the prop, the provisions of [10.4.3] shall apply. 10.4.4 A shot which occurs while loading, preloading, reloading or unloading a firearm. This includes any shot fired during the procedures outlined in Rule [8.3.1] and Rule [8.3.9]. 10.4.4.1 Exception – a detonation, which occurs while unloading a firearm, is not considered a shot or discharge subject to a match disqualification, however, Rule [5.1.7] may apply. 10.4.5 A shot which occurs during remedial action in the case of a malfunction. 10.4.6 A shot which occurs while transferring a firearm between hands or shoulders. 10.4.7 A shot which occurs during movement, except while actually shooting at targets. 10.4.8 A shot fired at a metal target with a bullet, slug or shot containing steel or tungsten.

What rules are being used? The angle on the video was close. But if the shot left the back berm I'd say DQ. Otherwise I would say it wasn't a DQ.

Have you shot any of these & if so, how was the accuracy? Looks like a cheap price, for sure. Mark, is this going to be hoser type ammo, 200 yards max? This is the cheapest price I've seen for 55 FMJ bullets! Somebody buy this and tell us if it is magnetic. S/H is a bit much. But still pretty cheap.