OperationHitFactor

Still a gread looking gun though.

It all really depends on what you are trying to achieve. Faster follow up shots or pin point accuracy? Bull barrels are accurate enough for me because I like shooting in USPSA. If I were going to shoot bullseye competition, bushing barrels all the way. As far as accuracy is concerned it's not a lot were talking here. If you had a very skilled smith build two guns, one bushing and one bull. The bushing might shoot a half inch group and the bull might shoot a 3/4 inch group at 25 yards with perfect ammo and perfect conditions. Lots of dry fire and range time will make the gun more accurate because the shooter will be more accurate.

Another thing to check is the flare on your powder drop. If you have too much flare that can be a problem. I assumed ammo had already been eliminated from the equation. You should still pull the barrel and drop a bullet into the chamber with whichever overall length you choose. Make sure the case is not sticking up and is completely flush with the barrel hood. You need to pull the barrel to do this, because when the gun goes into battery it could be forcing the round causing setback. You should chamber check your round when attempting new load lengths. In addition, this will help eliminate improper loading. The bullet should drop in then fall out nice and easy.

Well the Xdm is a fanastic pistol, but if I had to just buy one pistol I would have to go with a 1911. On the other hand, the XDm could be a little more flexible for all around, but the XDm might be better in a different caliber. XDm in 9mm would be great for 3gun and USPSA production, but in IDPA you'll get thrown into ESP(enhanced service pistol). With an XDm .45 you could do limited 10 and Maybe CDP? I don't know much about that division maybe someone else can chime in, but I'm not even sure you can use the XDm, but I think it's dominated by 1911's which could be a slight disadvantage with the XDm. In the end, you should buy the gun that you will shoot the most. If you're a member of a club go out in the pistol area and inquire about different guns. Most people won't mind if you run a couple rounds through their pistol. It's hard to find an all around pistol that is great for everything, but a 1911 you could do USPSA single stack, IDPA CDP, and it will work for 3gun.

Take the Trojan apart then try dropping a bullet into the barrel. It should slide in then slide out easy. If you drop the bullet in and the back doesn't sit in flush then you either didn't cut the chamber long enough or as stated above could be a problem with the throat.

I couldn't find any videos, but it's a steel drag race. I got the impression it's similar to the Pro AM but not par time or ten round mags. I think it's just shoot the steel as fast as possible.

Oh man that is crazy expensive too. Check out Atlanta Arms for buying ammo over the counter. You'll have to special order it, but it will do better than white box. Also, you should consider reloading. It's really not that hard and it pays for itself with in a few months. Start browsing the reloading section of the forum and asking questions. I know it can seem a bit overwhelming at first, but once are over the learning curve it is super easy. To put things into perspective 1000 rounds of the stuff you listed is $660 It cost me about $170-200 dollars to load 1000 rounds using once fired brass and about $250-280 for 1000 rounds using brand new brass. Roughly depends on the powder, bullets, and if I pick up my brass or buy it from a local brass guy. That saves roughly $400 from the ammo listed. Which you can get a basic set up for reloading for about $400.

I believe Springfield still has the 3 additional mags for free if you buy by 30 Nov 11. You can save $30 there. Why 4 mag extensions? I use two with my standard mags as backup. I understand one could go bad but that would still let you load a 21 rd followed by a 16 rd. Dave Also, I almost never fire a whole mag. I may dump a mag 10-12 shots in. It really just depends on the situation and where the best place for a mag change is. Never, never, never, fire to slide lock. Change on the move at whichever point is going to have the least effect on time, but still give you the proper round count to get through a stage.

Exactly. Plus, in the heat of competition sometimes you just grab whatever mag you get to first.

Variations in production of the magazine paired with basepad, spring and follower are the culprits. Good news is you can sell the 21 rounders as "super tuned". The idea of the "super tuned" magazines has always been funny to me. In all reality it just means a person beat the crap out of it with a hammer. I'm sure there is a little bit more of a science to it, however, it essentially has just been beaten in all the right spots with a hammer.

I'll have to give the magwell, mag release, and mag extensions a try. As for 4P+ $1750?? That was my first reaction. Then I read up on all the features. That is a solid deal for a person who dosen't want to work on or know how to work on a firearm. Especially when you consider a basic Edge setup with 4 tuned mags is easily 2,300+ and a 2011 Semi custom setup is 2700+. After browsing the Canyon Creek website I figure I can build a semi custom XDm 40 comp limited gun for about 1,200. I think this will about do it. XDm 40 5.25 Competition with 3 mags = $725 give or take Extra Mag = $30 4 - mag extension kits = about $200 Tungsten Guiderod = $90 Steel Magwell = $135 Mag release button = $35 Afterall is said and done about $1200 With a trigger job the price goes up a bit more, but still a great value and very dependable limited build.

Pistol gear 140mm mag extension. +4 gives 20+1 capacity and fits the gauge.

I agree, because I've been looking into this as well. I'm going to use it as a back up for limited and as my main gun for steel. I really think the lighter weight and balance will be an advantage shooting steel. I figure I can also use it in ESP when I dabble in IDPA. All around I think it is a great buy and could be an excellent choice for somebody who wants a gun that can be flexible for shooting different associations and divisions. In addition, I think it will also shine for the Pro AM or other similar type events. At any rate, it is a great option for people to enter the sport who want to compete, but don't want/have the money to spend.

I'm really banking on your wisdom CocoBolo. I'm currently putting together a box of parts to start a build in 2012 for open. From all the post I've seen over this forum. It looks like you've owned just about every open setup on the planet. So, I'm going to roll the dice on the DP-2.

Thank you. Now I just feel silly, because it's literally on the home page. It wasn't working earlier when I was at work, but the site looks great from my home computer.

Good choice ! LOL ! You didn't want a long dust cover? Just wondering , long dust cover or even a tungsten guide rod , won't make a difference for my shooting. Yeah, I do prefer the look of the long dust cover, but I don't mind the standard either. As far as the difference in performance... Who knows??? Maybe, it's better. Give me a long dust cover and a tungsten guiderod so I can let you know.

Um where? I joined and looked all around. The site is really hard to navigate through. Do you have a link? Thanks

UPDATE! Well first of all I would like to thank everyone for taking the time to respond. I started searching for open builds and after looking over a lot of great guns... I couldn't pull the trigger. I will have a full on custom built open build with all the bells and whistles one day, but used is too risky. For me personally, I would rather spend the extra money and get a gun built from the frame up. Used open builds just have too many question marks??? In the end, I found the deal of the century on an old SVI limited build and have decided to dedicate myself to shooting limited for next season. A friend of mine offered me a deal on one of his back up guns. So, for a little over $1000 dollars. I got an SV and 4 SV Mags Tuned with springs, pads, and followers. With a deal like that and with almost no risk. I couldn't pass and the decision was made. After about 750 rounds with not even a burp. I knew I made the correct decision, because this thing shoots like a dream. Just switching over to the 2011 platform made an immediate difference with my ability to shoot faster and more accurately. I'll post a couple pics below. By the way, switching over to Enos forum has been way better as well. For now, I'll keep checking the open topics and learnig for this year then make the jump to open next. Thanks Here is the gun. I don't believe it was built by SVI, but this is a quality build. Nobody really knows where it came from or who built it. About 10 different people have owned it through the years. Runs like a top, very accurate and a very nice trigger.

Hmmm... I'd say if the OP wasn't posted in OPEN , the majority may be different .... I am positive I would've got different responses in another area. I posted here, because I knew I was going to make the move to open at some point. I just wanted to hear from open class shooters if I should be patient and wait to make the move. I wanted to know if they would've made the jump sooner or stuck with the front sight before the dot. Didn't want to spark a debate about which was better, but rather pose the question what is a better foundation for learning the sport.

I catch the context now. Foot in mouth, sorry for the sarcasm.

Thanks for the suggestion. I've looked at Freedom Gun Works, Cameron's Custom, Akai, and I may even bring an old builder out of retirement that shoots at my local club. All seem to do great work and with wait times under 6 months. I spoke to Shay at Akai and he is really friendly and informative. Plus, he is in Florida so I can go pick it up in person. I'm going to cruise the classifieds for a bit first though.

Excellent. At best it will take 2-4 months to get a full custom from a buddy, hopefully not a year. Maybe if I find a good deal on a limited build to shoot until I can build an open or maybe I'll find a good deal on an open build and be done with it. Just with the prices I've seen. I feel it may be a better deal to do an open build. Used you don't know or should I say I don't know exactly what I am getting. Looks like the used market quality guns are going for 2500-3000+, but I can get new builds for 3000-3800 and get exactly what I want. Thank you all for the advice I think I'm going to put a little cash to the side and browse around the classifieds and see where the cards fall. Thanks PS. Open seems like a very skilled division to me. With people like Shannon Smith or Dave Pruitt showing up at any given match here in Florida. It certainly appears skilled, but maybe they just get lucky. Then again I'm not that smart I am just thirsty.

I reload. You are correct most of the companies from what I've heard are year out builds. Luckily, I've convinced a secret gunsmith to build me a gun depending on what I decide on. He is ready to start cutting on a slide as soon as I give him a frame.

Thanks for your opinion. Opinions are exactly what I am looking for from people with more experience.

No offense, but I don't follow. What is the "shopping funbuzz"? Also, I am shooting now and shooting a lot. No nothing is keeping me from shooting matches now. Matches and practicing with other shooters is how I discovered I don't care for production all that much personally. I just much preffer shooting the 1911 platform in competition. I shot a match last weekend with a Glock 34 and had fun. I carry a Glock 26 and if I needed to pick up a combat pistol I'd grab a Glock. However, this isn't combat, for me this is for sport.