OperationHitFactor

I often played with the idea of loading this round. I don't know any loads, but I have a lot of respect for you choosing a round of this nature. It looked like an impossible mission with little reward at the end. So, I gave up and just worked on a load I liked in .38 Special.

It's all a very personal choice. You can find an accurate load for just about any powder. It really depends on what you're trying to accomplish. People choose powders based on how they want their gun to feel. The general goal is to get a gun to cycle the way a person likes, then develop the load to achieve the desired velocity. You have different burn rates with different powders. Some slow, some fast, and some anywhere in between. It also depends on barrel length and if the barrel has a comp or ports. Rifle, Pistol, or Shotgun. All variables which will effect the decision of what powder people choose. Some powders have a more consistent burn rate which in theory leads to more accurate ammo. However, many things come into play for accuracy. Rifling, quality of brass, primers, bullet weight, quality of bullet, barrel lock up, and mostly human error all play a part in accuracy. At the end of the day if all other conditions are perfect. The most accurate powder would be based upon the consistency at which the powder burns to create a combustion to push the projectile down the tube at the same velocity each and every time. This would in theory cause the bullet to hit the same spot over and over again. Now your next question might be. Well which powder is that? I caution you this question could open up Pandora's Box. People have argued this since the dawn of forums.

Yes, everyone likes cookies.

I'll have to try the Vanek. I'm fairly happy with my current trigger, but if there is better... I've gotta try it.

I dunno what the official answer is, but I've seen people fill in RO at local matches due to similar circumstances. Generally it's people who have been around the block a time or two though.

Actually scratch what I just said I was typing while he was posting. +1 Cheap, safe and will probably work great.

What type of gun? Hmm, denatured alcohol might work better. Ballistol works wonderful 95% of the time. If it still won't come off brake cleaner if it's a steel frame. Just make sure you have the gun completely stripped. Only use it on the parts you have too. Then rinse it off really good and dry it. I don't know about on polymer frame though. If ballistol or alcohol won't take it off anything stronger might damage it. I bet ballistol and a toothbrush will work though.

After further review, this trigger, like a stock glock trigger, benefited a lot from an internal polish job. Also, adjusting the pre and overtravel a lot more made a good bit of difference. I had been using the stock - connector with this trigger bar for a match or two but went back to the Zev connector and I think this is how I'll keep it. The - connector does have a crisper break, but the weight is heavier. In normal situations it's not a problem, but we had a weak handed stage that called for headshots and the trigger was a bit heavy with the - connector in it. I put a ghost connector and spring in my fulcrum. If you don't mind spending a little money. It makes it a tad bit better. However, don't use the ghost striker spring unless you have the titanium striker or else you get light primer strikes. It takes a bit of fitting and tlc to do this, but makes the trigger awesome.

Thanks, no matter what I know this match will rock. "The par time steel will have more targets than that but in reality you probably won't get that far." Oh that sounds like a challenge to me and I accept. I may not have a national title or even official ranking by the USPSA, but I did stay at a holiday inn express once so that pretty much makes me a GM. I will clear the steel! If not, I'm going to blame my equipment, ammo, and anything else I can think of besides my lack of experience. Congrats on the Nationals win by the way. I'll see you at the monster match.

I would've have snatched up one of those tanks or military Hummers. Plus, there was like a million M4s laying on the ground next to 50 cals. Made for TV drama is always frustrating. On the other hand, the crossbow was a great tactical decision.

This will be my fourth USPSA Match. I only have 4 mags for my STI, 2 hold 18, 2 hold 21. I'm guessing I'll probably need more mags, but as I've quickly figured out. Mags are expensive. My question is how many mags will I need to get through a stage? I know I probably need another mag, but should I order 2 or maybe even three? I think I'm going to get in the mag rental business next year. Anyways, if I buy the mags at Palm Beach Shooting Center it will make me shoot better right? I can blame PBSC's mags if I don't win the match right?

That's really unfortunate. I'm new to competitive shooting and the USPSA, but have found this to be one of the best sports out there. I'm sure there is always going to be that guy, the good have to out weigh the bad. Everyone I've encountered has been really nice and supportive. Which in most sports the newbies are always treated like outcast and jokes. I have even got stuck on a few local squads with GM and M class shooters. I was intimidated at first, but found they were all very helpful, patient, and take time to show the ropes. I've encountered this in other sports and have always found silent treatment works best after positivity fails. Staying positive and focused is the key to bad situations in sport and in life. Mind judo him by not letting him get the satisfaction of seeing you get flustered or fail.

I was curios myself and didn't know the answer. So, called my dad who has been reloading for years. He said it would depend on the barrel and if it was fully supported or not. He said most likely it wouldn't be a problem, but out of a Glock it could be. The case could move a little causing unstable pressure and cause a case failure. Again he said unlikely, but given the gap in the frame and slide you could burn you hand. He said at the end of the day it would probably be ok, but do not do it. He said it would be like putting a .380 in. He said, "Bad Idea". I think I would make sure you don't do that.

I have a DPMS and a Stag upper both on a Spikes tactical lower. The DPMS is very nice, but for just a little bit more money you can pick up a Stag upper. The quality of the fit and finish paired with the Stag barrel seems to do better under rapid fire on hot days. It's really hard to beat the DPMS upper though at the price point, though I myself have a DPMS with a forward assist. I have never had to use it though and hear it's not really an issue without one.

Check the striker cups and spring. Maybe change the trigger housing and trigger bar too. You can try polishing everything too. Matter of fact, just change them out they are cheap.

Shot my second USPSA local match which went better than my first. My first USPSA match was a disaster. The first time I ran through a stage I completely forgot all of the mechanics I had been working on to prepare for competitive shooting. There was so much going on down range I was looking at the targets instead of the front sight. Needless to say I didn't hit anything except for a few D's. The funny thing is I flew through the course with the fastest time. When I cleared my weapon people started to clap and comment how fast that was. Then came the scoring, then the laughing because I got the fastest stage time, but lowest point score. One of the local Masters commented he wish he had video taped it because it looked amazing. After a bit of coaching and going back to the drawing board. The second match I went to a couple weeks later I made sure I got my hits and was just taking my sweet time. I still finished towards the bottom of the pack, but my overall performance was greatly improved and I guess speed will come with time. What's important is how much fun it was. I can never really go back to shooting at a piece of paper. Now I just need to register with the USPSA and join a club.

Sweet gun. I can't wait to get an open gun one day. Anyways, I just picked up the 124 MG's JHP from Johnathan at RedDotShootinc. He's getting rid of them for cost to help out a friend who switched to Limited now shooting .40 Major. I don't know how it will work as far as shipping, but if you don't want to switch I think he has a case or two left to hold you over until MG gets restocked.

Just trying to come up with a reasonable load. Like I said, 4.3 caused failure to feed issues so I had to go hotter, 4.4 and 4.5 seem fine but 4.6 I'm sure would eventually lead to disaster. Question is, should I go with 4.4 or 4.5? By the way, these were all trickled out, no need for a powder measure yet. Is there anything to note on either of these photos? Do the primers look ok? 4.45 would be good but don't think I can get there. 4.4 might work but I'm a tad concerned about FTF at 4.3 and would like to go with 4.5. Wow, there are a lot of different variables in that. FTF could be caused by several factors other than the load. If you search the forum for loads for your type of gun then scroll through the post most likely you can find what issues people had and what loads worked best for your type of gun. Just be careful and make sure you have a good set of safety glasses.

Now if they can just restock their 124gr JHP 9mm I'll be happy.

Some clubs set matches up with little thought to the 180. Still it's up to us to make sure we never break it, however, if you were holstering your cleared weapon that was a bit harsh.

It only happens for me at steel matches when I'm drawing from the holster and my grip is a bit too high. I think it's because I'm pushing myself too fast. Either way it doesn't hurt too bad, but it can bleed like crazy.

ISMI makes one for a G24, just bought one from Chris Patty(CPWSA) - ordered & recieved in 3 days - can't get better than that - also bought an ISMI 13 & 15# springs to see which works better. Thanks I must have missed it, as I had called myself checking his website. I will check again. BTW, let me know how the springs work out. I tried a 13 and had problems with the slide not fully going back into battery . I also had issues with my slide not going into battery with a 13 pounder on my 34. I would have to tap the back of the slide to push it forward. However, I found that it was due to my guide rod not being seated properly into the notch of the slide. Might not be the your problem, but after you put the recoil assembly into the slide give it a good pull down towards the front of the recoil assembly to seat it flush. I have not had any issues since.

The 24 and 17L have been circulating here in Florida for a few weeks now. Pretty cool and didn't seem to be as front heavy as people complain about. I have a Glock 34 and absolutely love it and love shooting my friends 35. I wonder how the extra front weight effects felt recoil and slide speed? I keep eyeing the 24 for a limited build, but I also had a 2011 slapped into my hands the other day for the first time. I'm super curious how the 24 shoots. I've got a 34 for production and a 27 for a carry, so the temptation to keep it all Glock for consistency makes since. However, that 2011 felt so so good in my hands.