1760yds

Looks nice. Did you paint the handguard?

Sorry. I wasn't trying to be funny. I think you are over complicating though. If you are shooting multi-gun long range you don't have to be that precise. The targets are generally pretty huge. Put your load into ballistic calculator and figure out your drops at ranges out to 450 yards. Also look at what a 10mph wind will do to your bullet in inches at each distance. If its only blowing 5 mph its exactly half of what it was at 10. For example my multi-gun load is as follows and isn't anything special. Hornady 68g bullet, B.C. .355, elevation 2200, muzzle velocity 2900. Zeroed at 100 yards. This changes if you use a 200 yards zero. You need to run the numbers for your gun and load. 200 Yards = 3 inches low 300 Yards = 12 inches low - Wind 10 mph FV =2.75 MOA or apprx. 8.5 in 400 Yards = 29 inches low - Wind 10 mph FV = 3.84 MOA or apprx. 15.36 in 500 Yards = 54 inches low - Wind 10 mph FV = 5.08 MOA or apprx. 25.5 in As you can see at 400 yards if you are shooting a popper sized target you can aim at the top of the head and still probably hit the bottom of the target. Aim 15 inches high and hit in the center. If you have wind start by favoring the upwind side of the target. If you know how much wind then guess your hold. The targets are so big that even if you guess wrong you will have a pretty big margin of error to still make the shot. The Burris Tac 30 or XTR 1-4 Scopes have excellent holdovers built in. They won't be exact unless you match your load to the reticle but they will be close enough +/- 2-4 inches. Just use the built in holdovers and make the hits.

Thanks for the clarification. I'd love to see pictures if you find them. Also, not to sound ignorant but what is a "can tosser"?

I also agree and would add that the JP 15.5 free float tube that covers the gas block is awesome. You can add rails anywhere you need them or take them off and keep the tube lighter. I am more aggressive with my weakhand because the tube doesn't bite (with rails) me when I push the gun in transitions.

1) If you want to really understand ballistics you should get Brian Litz's book "Applied Ballistics for Long Range Shooting" and a good ballisics calculator. There are many excellent or free ballistics calculators available. There are even some really good ballistic calculators available for your smart phone. Brian Litz is a great long range shooter/competitor (NRA High Master) and he's the ballistician for Berger bullets. He graduated from Penn State with a degree in Aerospace Engineering. He then began a career as a missile design engineer at Wright-Patterson Air Force Base. He has written many ballistics programs and technical papers dealing with long-range flight dynamics of projectiles. 2) The fundamentals of making long range shots with AR-15's are the same as making long range shots with any other rifle and are really too numerous to list all of them now. Here's a few ideas: Gun with acceptable accuracy, good trigger, match ammo, high B.C. bullets, etc. You can make long range shots using holdovers however, unless you have a special rifle scope you'll be more precise dialing. That opens up a whole new topic because then you need a scope that tracks. You also need a shooter that understands wind, ballistics, breathing, trigger control, etc. 4x is enough power to make long range shots. Palma shooters use iron sights at 1000 yards. Their iron sights are fully adjustable and track similar to a scope. 300-500 yards isn't really that long range and depending on how precise you're trying to be will determine how much the stuff I listed above matters. If you are only trying to hit 24 inch targets at 400 yards then you probably don't need to do a thing I listed above. Just go and shoot till you hit the target. If you really want to be precise then the stuff I mentioned above matters a lot. I hope that helps.

I think the Elcan would work great. Also, I don't know what shotgun barrel you have but unless its 30' long I wouldn't buy a different one. Just get an extended mag tube that will hold at least 8 and maybe 10 and you will be good to go. There are a bunch of pros running 26' barrels right now and even if you had a 28' it wouldn't cost you any time. Starting out 2-6 inches of barrel length aren't going to make any difference in your shooting or where you place. Save your money and buy ammo to practice with.

I want to know what the guitars you traded were. Pictures are always good.

Good ideas. Can you explain more about the HDPE Conduit you are moving out of box please?

When I first read this I thought for sure that you had posted this in the wrong thread. However, I think you are suggesting that we use 1040's as shotgun targets Thanks for the suggestion.

I have a Swarovski 1-6 and a Burris XTR. The Swaro is incredible in bright daylight. The illumination in the XTR is unusable in bright daylight. Inside a house the XTR will wash out(too bright) if turned to the highest setting.

I'm looking for ideas for creative shotgun targets to use in 3 gun or tactical shotgun matches. I'm mostly wanting ideas for shot but slug ideas are okay too. Pictures are always great. Thanks.

What reticle does it have? First impressions on the glass?

I can't wait to hear the full report. I saw it at the SHOT Show last year but haven't heard of anyone with one yet. Give us your initial impressions.

My opinion is that any practice is good practice and that as long as you don't practice bad habits you really can't go wrong. Lots of the fundamentals are the same no matter what style of competition or gun you shoot. Trigger time is always good.

The most ready to go out of the box for 3 gun is the FNH SLP. Already has extended mag tube from the factory. It even has a folding rear sight that can be sighted in for slugs. You can sometimes find the same gun used in the Winchester X2 Practical. They are identical and the parts are interchangeable. They are extremely reliable and only require a good cleaning every 3-400 rounds. The advice to shoot some 3 gun matches before buying anything is excellent advice. The people that shoot matches are awesome and most will be more than willing to let you try or use their equipment for the first few matches while you decide what you like. If you buy before you've been to a match you'll show up and find out that you should have bought different equipment. Just bring ammo and go try out a bunch of guns and equipment.

You should try to figure out what you're doing different. People see sights differently but it shouldn't be miss the target differently. Generally when someone reports that their gun shoots low and left they are jerking the trigger. If you gave the same gun that was shooting low and left to 10 Master class shooters it would shoot pretty close to dead on for most of them. Obviously, there will be slight differences due to hold and the way they see sights but it should be close. If your friend is really a good shooter you should try to figure out whats happening that's different. Maybe he jerks the trigger and compensates with the way he sights the gun in. When you shoot the gun and pull the trigger the right way the gun shoots to the right due to how he's sighted it in. On the other hand maybe you're doing something wrong. Just wild ideas.

"You can tell if it's accurate by looking at the barrel."

"Anybody have a flashlight?"

Amazing what they can get us to do for them.

Thats so gross and yet funny at the same time.

If you can be patient, what you are looking for will show up in the classifieds here eventually. If not, I've had good experiences with all of the above mentioned vendors.

If you have somebody that can help you that knows what they are doing you can do it yourself. It is possible to do. If you don't know how then it would probably not be a good idea. Brownells sell a fitted slide and frame. You can also order a fitted slide and frame from STI that has all the machine cuts already done. It requires only minor fitting of internal parts(fitted with a file). Minor meaning can be done with a file, you would still need to know what you were doing or have someone that did help.

There is no such thing as the "best suppressor". Its all opinion. Nobody has compared every suppressor made or done extensive testing to determine "best". Also, best in one situation may not equal best in another. For example I chose a quicksilver titanium .30 cal ( Quicksilver Suppressors) because they are extremely efficient when you consider their size and weight. If my suppressor were bigger (more volume) it would suppress better. I however wanted the smallest lightest suppressor I could get that would still work on a .300 win mag. I'm happy with the volume level it achieves and I use it on my .30 cals, my 7 mags and my AR's. Its also light enough that I use a thread adapter and use it on .22 pistols. On a .22 rifle with subsonic ammo you can hear the firing pin and if it weren't for the bullet hitting the ground you would question whether anything came out of the barrel. It would work great on a .300 blackout. In fact you could probably get by with less volume if that's all you were going to use it on. I highly recommend looking for a quality titanium can. I have buddies that have really heavy .30 cal cans and the weight sucks the fun out. One other option would be to use a 9mm or 40 cal pistol can. You would want to check with the manufacture but if you were shooting subsonic they would more than likely work. Also, most pistol cans are aluminium, so they are lighter, and they are generally cheaper.

I have a 5.5-22x56 Nightforce and its a great scope.Good glass and great turrets. It will cover your needs from 100-1700+ yards. While you can shoot 800 yards with 10x you will find that often to a point more magnification is better. I know 10x was good enough for the Marines but I happen to know several Marine Snipers who all use Schmidt & Bender Scopes that have a much higher than 10x magnification. While you can do it with 10x you'll be much happier with more power. Also, the reason people tell you FFP scopes are easier to range with is because the reticle can be used to range on any power. However, on FFP scopes the reticle grows as you turn the power up. It looks massive on high power and is usually hard if not impossible to see on the lower powers. If you've never looked through a FFP I highly recommend doing so before you buy one. You can still range with a 2nd FP reticle you just have to make sure that you range with it on a factory preset power. I also agree with an earlier comment regarding getting a reticle with mil hash marks instead of dots if you're set on using mils.

Both make excellent ARs. My JP competition gun is every bit as reliable as my other non-competition ARs and is so nice to shoot that I end up using it in non-comp applications. Both brands you are considering are popular enough to find at any match. Most shooters are happy to let you try them so shoot both and get the one you like shooting the best.