g56

That's what I do.

Here's quite a bit of info: Stainless Steel brass cleaning

380 can be a real pain to reload, the cases are tiny and get crushed very easily.

Anytime you change anything, the point of impact can change, sometimes its a lot, sometimes not, but its not predictable, you have to try them to see what happens. Different brand of bullet, even though its the same weight, will probably impact in a different spot, different powder? Same thing. Sometimes even changing the brand of primer can cause a change! I was playing with some different bullets on one of my rifles last week, 15 grain lighter bullets, you would expect a change in the elevation, instead I got an impact about 4" LEFT of the heavier bullet, you just don't know till you try something.l

When you work your way up to Master class, then being a little OCD will help, right now, don't worry about it.

Go with the next heavier bullet, in that caliber it will probably be 100 gr, never use data for a lighter bullet. Reloading 380 can be a problem, those cases are just so small, its easy to mess them up.

The correct term is how sensitive, Federal primers are the most sensitive primers, meaning easiest to ignite, CCI are usually considered the least sensitive, hardest to ignite, and my experience follows those lines. I have a custom built PPC revolver, I used to shoot PPC competitively for a number of years, it won't work with anything but Federal primers.

Simple enough, no anvil, no bang! You might think about the anvil as the firing pin for the primer, it won't work without it.

If I'm shooting on concrete I use a broom to sweep the brass into a pile, then a counter brush and dust pan to pick it up. You can get a counter brush and broom combo at Walmart for a buck or two. If you aren't clear about what I mean, here's a photo. Counter brush and dustpan

My standard 45acp load for many years, 5.0 gr of WW231, with a 200 gr SWC lead bullet. The chrono info was out of a Kimber Match Target with a standard 5" bbl. 5.0 gr WW231 200 gr Lead SWC Winchester primer 1 766.4 2 748.8 3 787.3 4 775.7 5 787.5 6 785.2 7 767.3 8 775.9 9 780.3 10 790.1 Average 781.5 High 798.8 Low 766.4 ES 31.4 SD 10.2 AD 8.3

Notice the dryer sheet is on the OUTSIDE of the powder hopper, it tends to kill or lower the static charge is the plastic, inside and outside.

Number 1 will always be bullet quality and consistency, bullets don't have to be expensive to be accurate. An expensive bullet with mediocre quality control won't necessarily be accurate. Bullet weight and barrel twist What powder and what load As long as bullet tension is fairly consistent, most of the brass things listed are of minor importance. Quality of the barrel has a lot to do with it

People have been trying rice for a very long time, and the vast majority of them come to the same conclusion, mediocre performance at best. Walnut is best for cleaning Corn cob is best for polishing, add a little Dillon Polish or Flitz for a better shine

If you look at my previous post that has my loading bench, my Lyman Spartan C press is on the far right hand side on the bench, that was my original press, its now been retired and a CH shotshell loader occupies that space. The old Rock Chuckers had the year of manufacture stamped on them, notice also that they were a completely different color of green from what they are now, and the finish was wrinkle paint instead of the smooth finish on the current ones. Manufactured in 1970, I got it the same year. The old Lyman C press would spring when sizing rifle shells, got the Rock Chucker with the sturdy O frame configuration.

That's usually a dead giveaway that you need to increase your crimp, giving the powder a little more time to burn and stabilize. I ran into this on Trail Boss, and increasing the crimp completely cured it.

Have you tried it in your vibratory cleaner? It might work, but you won't know unless your try it.

Low bulk powders significantly increase the chance of an overcharged case, its easy to see why, just try this little experiment, intentionally throw 2 charges of a powder like Bullseye or a similar low bulk powder into an empty case, there's a 99% chance you won't notice any difference by looking at the charge, the only way to tell the difference is by weighing the powder. The next step is to put that powder back in the container to make sure you don't accidentally put a bullet in that case! Most rifle charges will overflow the case if you tried to double charge them, but its easy to do with many pistol powders, that's one reason I've switched over to Trail Boss in my 38 special loads, it pretty much fills the case and makes it impossible to double charge that case. I'm not sure how it would work out in a cartridge like a 9mm, that's a completely different animal than a revolver cartridge.

Mine works fine without any added weight. Main thing is to keep on top of that battery, its easy to forget, and the battery can last for years, but even using a good alkaline battery it needs to be changed out from time to time, you don't want the battery to leak in there and mess up the battery contacts. With a good fresh alkaline battery you should be able to go a couple of years before changing it out, I put a sticker on the battery to tell me how old it is. It can last a lot longer than that, but you are really risking battery leakage, it can do a lot of damage.

When I was a Deputy we had to cycle our duty ammo to make sure what we carried was fresh, so every few months I would shoot up that "older" ammo. I found that it wasn't unusual for a couple of the nickel cases to split after the first firing, and every time they were reloaded and fired, I or 2 more would split, so I had to keep a spare box of nickel empties because every time I shot a box of 50, I might only have 48 usable cases left. I might mention that the ammo we were issued varied by brand, so I'm not just writing about one brand, but virtually all the major brand names of ammo, and not just one revolver either, I would do some horse trading from time to time. It didn't take too long to figure out that nickel cases weren't very good for reloading. I've seen other people post about having good luck with nickel plated cases, more than likely I was exposed to a lot more nickel cases than most people, but your results may vary.

The ammo companies started nickel plating brass because plain brass really interacts with leather, put plain brass cases in a leather cartridge belt and they will quickly start corroding, you get a lot of green crap called verdigris, nasty stuff, nickel plated cases don't do that. Back when I was a Deputy it was in the revolver days, and since we were often out in the boondocks we carried more ammo than most city officers, 6 in the revolver, 2 speedloaders, and 12 cartridges in cartridge loops, you had better have nickel cases in those or pretty quickly you have a nasty green stuff all over the place. At one point I found a load of verdigris in my speedloader pouches, I had nickel cases, but the copper jackets on the hollow points were reacting to the leather, so I had to get some plastic and cut a plastic bottom to go in the bottom of the speedloaders, and isolate them from the leather. These days its used because of its corrosion resistance, it stays slick, instead of corroding and not as easy to feed in the semi autos. Nickel is good for self defense ammo, but not great for reloading.

When I first started reloading I was a bit OCD, like everyone else, over time I learned a lot of lessons. If you don't get crazy with your loads, keep them mostly in the mid range, pistol brass lasts almost forever! I've got 38 special cases that have probably been reloaded 100 times, I've got some 9mm and 45acp cases that have been reloaded so many times its difficult to make out the headstamps. On pistol cases the only segregation is military brass or commercial brass, all the military brass goes in one container and all commercial civilian (not crimped) brass goes in a separate container. I also learned you don't need to trim pistol caliber brass and you don't need to clean primer pockets. Rifle brass is a completely different situation, rifle brass, specifically bottle neck calibers, has a definite life span, some more than others, but all rifle calibers are separated by number to times reloaded.

My standard load for 9mm has been 4.6 gr of WW231 behind a 115 gr jacketed bullet, I've been using that load for about 20 years. Unfortunately bullets have gotten so much more expensive I'm giving up using jacketed bullets for most of my shooting, I'll be switching over to plated bullets like Berrys or Rainier, I've been using them in 40 S&W for the last few years.

I've got over 100,000 rounds on my Dillon 550, about 90% of that is 38 special, loaded for competition and practice when I was still competing actively in PPC in the Master class, using a custom PPC revolver with the springs pretty light, the ONLY primers that will work in that revolver are Federals, if I try to shoot Winchester primers in that revolver I get about a 50% misfire rate, so the loads for that revolver HAVE TO BE RIGHT, EVERY TIME. Misfires are unacceptable, high primers will bind up the cylinder and are unacceptable. During match season I was loading and shooting 800 to 1,000 rounds a week for practice. I NEVER* cleaned a primer pocket, some of those cases were probably reloaded 100 times, the match loads are very easy on the brass. Primer pockets don't accumulate residue, you will have no more residue left in the primer pocket after its been reloaded 100 times than you will the first time its fired. Its no more difficult to seat a primer in that case after many reloadings than it will be the first time. Primer pocket build up is an old wives tale, there is absolutely no evidence of it happening, it doesn't affect seating a new primer, and it doesn't affect accuracy at normal pistol distances. *When I say never, it means that when I got the Dillon I quickly found out it was a complete waste of time, so never means starting in 1985 when I got my Dillon.

The only thing I've run into on 223/5.56 rounds is sometimes they will partially hang up on the handle, about halfway down the chute, but in that situation you don't have to do anything since the next time you pull the handle they go ahead and fall into the bin.