Ray S.

Hi. It seems most of the top shooters use a variation of the 1911 for competition. Just wondering what other choices are out there (winning competitions) that other shooters use.

I dunno, and I don't remember what it's called, but it's possible he's talking about this: Make up 20 loads, a tenth apart. Fire from a solid rest, one shot each load, same aiming point. The longer the range the more accurate the test. Plot on paper (x/y axis stuff) each shot. A pattern should emerge after the 20 shots, with "sweet spots" (usually more than one) grouping close together, at least on the vertical axis. Designed for rifle, don't know how it stacks up at shorter ranges from pistol barrels, though it may depend on the gun's accuracy capability. Would think it may work at 100 yards from a Ransom, though. Been thinking about trying it with a couple of pistols for a long time, but haven't done it.

advertisement ANOTHER DEFECTIVE CHRYSLER PRODUCT 1987 Dodge Ram 4WD pickup, bought new July of 1986. New, getting 9 1/2 miles per gallon (318 v8) At two weeks old....Paint came off area surrounding the headlights. At four weeks..........Noticed vehicle "wandered" while driving. Slack in the joint caused me to have to turn the steering wheel almost 1/2 turn before it would engage. Still does it to a large extent though I've got it doing better. Chrome coming off the grill. At three months.....Paint stripping from the sides of the truck. At five months....(December) Windshield wipers went out while on the highway driving in a snowfall. At eight months.....Tires have no tread (9000 miles), something about the size of the "ball" unit being the wrong size, front wheels looked like a "V" when viewed from the front. Never acknowledged by Chrysler or repaired. At one year...........Paint coming off the tailgate. Tailgate latch replaced the second time. *Mileage down to 8 mpg At two years..........Radiator had to be replaced. Driver's door now has shims holding it in place. More paint peeling. Also in second year....Air conditioner compressor went out, a.c. replacement went out two years later, never got it to work right again. Also the front shocks went out. At four years....Windshield cracked across the top when I hit a bump. At twelve years......Motor blew. $2500 At fourteen years....Both outside mirrors flopping around. Rearview mirror fell off long ago. At fourteen years....Transmission blew. $1500 Last year....Heater core replaced. Other stuff too numerous to mention. Seat covers worn thru since around the sixth or seventh year. Now the fun part--In addition to the alleged "warranty", I purchased a $500 extended warranty at the time of purchase. NO PROBLEM I EVER HAD was repaired by the dealership under either warranty. Yes, I still have the truck for doing what trucks are for. However, it is no longer the product built by those bums. Everything about it that matters has been replaced at least once. But man is it great for getting into and out of muddy places. Just can't stick it. P.S. I service all vehicles every 3000 miles and always have. First oil change at 1000 miles. After the second oil change I use either Mobil 1 or Red Line Oil, and K&N oil and air filters. P.P.S. Had a big sign made "ANOTHER DEFECTIVE CHRYSLER PRODUCT FROM **** CHRYSLER-JEEP". Hung it on the grill (truck on highway frontage) when not in use. Wife made me take it down after a week. Dealer not still in car biz.

I thought some would find this interesting: http://www.freeww.com/workbenches.html

I "lost" a pair of Peltor Tactical 6's, and just bought new Pro Ears Pro Mag last week. Today I found the &^%##$ Tactical 6's. Using them side by side, I prefer the Peltor--my Pro Ears has a lot of background hiss, and seems to have much less noise attenuation. Shots with it seem much louder than with the 6's. Could very well just be me, though.

The strips also aid in vibration reduction between the bench, the main mounting plate and the rest (the open area between the strips help reduce surface area in contact with the bench). If you look at some of the high-end audio furniture, you'll see that some have the shelves resting on four needle-shaped feet, as are wind flag poles to reduce surface contact. The less contact surface between the source of vibration and the bench (or shelf or floor, etc) the better. I think groups are dependent upon a certain set of forces. Adding or reducing vibration is one of those forces.

Have you tried removing the catalytic converter???

Wouldn't it be difficult to purposely create an accident.?

You guys OK?

Hi. You might find this info interesting: http://www.reloadammo.com/liteload.htm

Shooting is like golf, except that shooting is fun. I've never seen anyone (yet) stomp on their gun, try to break it in half or throw it into a pond after a bad shot.

This is another of those FWIW'S. Worked for me, though. From a solid rest, get a good sight alignment and sight picture, and concentrate on seeing a dead-still front sight on the target throughout the trigger pull and for a count of two AFTER you pull the trigger (dry-firing). Click-one-two-relax. Do this until you can do it ten times in a row without blinking or the sights moving at all, then load up (with muffs and plugs) and hold that thought. Repeat as necessary. Also, I try to look at the top center of the front sight rather than the whole thing (aim small miss small--M. Gibson) while I do it. I think what it does is to teach my rather small brain that its not going to be blown to bits by the pulling of the trigger. P.S. I'm a beginner at the competition thing, this is just what stopped me from blinking shooting targets and stuff. This may not be a good way, but if it's not someone will tell you, and I'll learn too.

Thanks much for the replys, folks. I really appreciated it.

I'd like to find 5 grandmasters who all began competition training as "just someone who likes to shoot". Maybe an above-average plinker type. I'd like to ask them each the same question: "What one question, that you didn't even know enough to ask, would you have liked answered most in your first month of serious practice." I'd love to have those five mantras on the shaving mirror.

Thanks for the replys, gents. We neophytes need all the help we can get and I really appreciate the time you guys take on the forum. Thanks much.

I don't get a chance to go to many gun shows, but the ones I've been to made me wonder if some people actually pay those weird prices for stuff. The last one I went to a guy had a Winchester '76 for $2500. It had more serial numbers than he had teeth. Plus a pitted bore and a cracked stock. Plus no rear sight. As I walked off he offered to knock off $500, and said something about it being used in the Indian wars. The only things I've been able to buy at a show was a 5-foot blowpipe ($15.00 with 100 darts). Guess I need to learn how to haggle.

Can someone tell me the difference in speed: when you do a maximum-speed draw to hit in the A zone, and when you draw to hit a smaller target? For instance, a draw at seven yards, to hit a 1 1/2" orange dot. How much difference does it make to you folks between the two? Would it be similar to the time difference at the different (longer/shorter) distances?

- Empty cartridge ejecting OK but new round digging its nose into the edge of the feed-ramp? This'un. Mags were new, first time to use them. Another question, though. As I said the col varied from 1.101 to 1.110.... On the forums, it appears everyone is using a 1.150 to 1.160.... I'd appreciate some info on why the factory stuff is so short compared to how most of you are loading.

Glock 17. Standard Glock factory 10-round mags (new ones, though), stock Glock barrel, UMC cartridge's oal varied from 1.101-1.111. This is from the thirty or so I had left from the range.

Hi. They were all feed jams, but I can't be more specific than that as the instructor was hollering RACKRACKRACKRACK!!. I took apart the gun that night and cleaned and lubed it, though I haven't haven't had a chance to shoot since the jams. It had been a L-O-N-G time since I cleaned and lubed, so I'm hoping that was the problem. Should have kept up with the cartridges that jammed to measure them, but I didn't think about it. The ammo was UMC 115 gr. MC. Thanks much.

Hi. It's the stock unit (Glock 17). Thanks.

Can any of you tell me a probable cause as to why the guide rod keeps "jumping out" of the semi-circle? Also, do you think that could be why I had a lot of failures to feed at the range last week (had shot around 200 rnds before it started happening). Also, I was using new mags, but they seemed to do ok at the beginning. Thanks much, folks. Ray

Try Shooter's Choice Lead Remover. It's a gel, and stays put in the bore for soaking, put liberal amount on jag and let it sit for a few hours, followed by bronze bore brush. Repeat as needed. If that still doesn't get it, short-stroke some Iosso with a jag. If neither gets it you need to call out the big guns--the "Lewis Lead Remover". This is a bronze patch doohickey you pull through the bore. Shooter's choice and brush should take care of any problem, though.

Speaking of power factors, I saw a single-shot pistol a few days ago in 50 BMG. Now, figuring a 750 grain bullet at 2850 fps, this gives a power factor of: 2,137,500. Now THAT'S a power factor. Nothing was mentioned about how long it took to clean a plate rack. Probably won't, either. Wonder how he does shooting weak hand.

You have a good show. Strange music, but a really good show.