kcd19

agree with most of what's been said in the thread, but this especially. i strive for designing interesting stages and REALLY enjoy when people tell me that no two people on their squad shot it the same way. formulaic stages are, well, formulaic. and that, to me, is boring. so yeah, if you can put a twist on 6-10 round stages and make it challenging, go for it. if a 32 round stage is challenging, go for that, too. to the point of 32 round stages across the board - i feel like some people just like blasting through rounds or that there is a perception of more is better. i don't mind high round counts, but when the stages are very procedural or predictable, i don't feel like there is much return on the higher round count. it becomes a reloading contest. i think there should a be point to the stage, or an problem that can be solved, or an optimization of the solution - whether that's movement, optimizing for reloads, etc.

another +1 for Dawson. i find a .100 wide red fiber with .110 STI Adjustable rear to be "just right"

Not to drift the topic too much, but I'd echo this. I discovered this accidentally on a day where the browns were too dark but clear/yellow offered no filter on the haze.. the Rudy reds are brighter to my eyes compared to the brown/dark lenses, but offer a LOT of contrast for picking up the sights against the target. Glad to hear that they will work well for me in Open too.

any drawbacks to to the arredondo mount NOT having a blast shield? see you have it on a shorty, even.. do you get any blast/fouling/whatever on the lens? seems like the DPP are typically mounted far enough back / short enough that it's not entirely necessary. also, the arredondo mount appears to be centered on the bore? or is the offset (if any) imperceptible in the pics?

thanks drewbeck - i'm looking at the arredondo mount - that's a nice pic of the setup and helps to inform my decision.

classifieds on here, or try allison supply. $37/1000

you're describing the bullet jamming against the top of the chamber and failing to go into battery, right? generally overall length (needs to be made longer) or a different bullet profile will help to solve that. since you're shooting factory with intention to reload, i would not start adjusting the gun.

this thread has some good info. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=233466 VZ have some very nice options for the 1911

link to this Limcat mount? i have not been able to locate it online to see it. thanks.

VZ Recons are what you are looking for. Golf-ball type pattern, very grippy in all conditions.

working on spec'ing out an open gun myself - what comp is this that we're talking about having issues with threads?

took a couple of years before i felt comfortable with even a sectional match, and my observation of that first match was how remarkably similar it was to a club match and it opened the floodgates for LII/LIII matches. any pressure you feel is coming from within. it's the same rules, same COF, same equipment. sign up, have fun.

what mount is that?

a couple have touched on it [d_striker], but i'll share what help it click with me.. think of it "points per second". that's all hit factor boils down to. heck, even carry a calculator in your range bag and run some numbers in "what-if" scenarios. take a 100 point stage because the numbers are easy. Clean the stage with slow, precise shooting in 30 seconds. 100 points. 3.333 hit factor. Now turn it up a little bit. Say 92 points in 25 seconds. 3.680 hit factor. You just traded a few points for time and boosted your HF on the stage. Now go faster, but give up a couple of hits for the speed. 85 points in 15 seconds. HF of 5.667. You can even extend that a bit further.. you could do much more poorly on hits [70 points] in that same 15 seconds and still have a HF of 4.667, well above the initial "clean" score in 30 seconds, but not as good as with good hits, either. also, consider a single target scenario for when making up shots makes sense.. Let's call 2 shots an A-D in Production [minor] in 2 seconds. that's 5 + 1 = 6 points / 2 seconds = 3.00 HF. Not bad.. BUT.. Make up that 'D' hit with an 'A'. now you have 5 + 5 = 10 points / 2.10 seconds = 4.762 HF. better, and certainly worth it in pretty much every scenario. those examples aren't meant to speak slowly using short words... but hopefully it illustrates what tradeoffs you're making in terms of speed/accuracy & helps to frame things a bit more clearly. it's all about how efficient you can be for the most points. you can't substitute speed for poor hits and do well, but there's a balance where you can tilt the math in your favor.

what i did, and what i would do again in a heartbeat, was build a dedicated 22 lower. it eliminates the questionable quality of parts, having to switch a bunch of things around, etc., while also providing a consistent configuration for 22 and 22 alone. What I ultimately found was that I had to try a variety of mainspring weights [settled at 18#, i believe] to find the balance between cycling reliably and setting off a wide variety of ammo. The other adjustment I had to make was to accommodate last-round hold open on the mag release.. i relieved the point where the plunger makes contact to allow it to travel upward more freely, using this photo as a general reference.. I believe this was on a thread on here, or maybe ar15.com at some point.

had Gary build a singlestack last year, shipped it down Weds evening, got complete gun back the following Weds. morning. everything was top notch, the fit was excellent. no issues after the fact. lots of pictures of complete builds on his web site.

great option, Gary does great work. my experience mirrored this precisely with the exception that it was only 1 week.

i had similar issues with the same mags, even with Bayou 200 RN loaded to 1.200. that first round would nosedive every now and then. for me, a SVI "raised" mag catch + 15# recoil spring solved it completely. I don't currently find that mag catch on SVI's site, but it was D/T for a button, which was what sealed the deal over the EGW catch, for me. once installed, it raised the mags high enough that the bodies were contacting the slide release, so i had to re-profile the bottom side of that to create some clearance, but it's been about 4k flawless rounds since i made that switch. i've used both Berry's 180 RN + Bayou 200 RN, with preference to the Bayous. both feed well with my setup.

instead of taking the entire slide assembly off, i am able to engage the stop on the tool-less guide rod with a small screwdriver.. disassemble as normal.

trying my hand at fitting a new slide/frame & would like an opinion. i've attached the dimensions i've measured of the two pieces. all of the measurements seem to line up more or less in-spec/tolerance for getting things fit up, with the exception of what my initial removal of material should be. the rail (male) portion of the slide is almost 0.010" thicker than the corresponding dimension in the frame. (measurements A & H in my drawing) At this point, the slide doesn't even come close to getting started on the rails; obviously, material needs to be removed from one or the other of the surfaces - either the bottom of the slide needs to be flattened by that amount, or the bottom side of the slide rail would need to be adjusted. in my mind, it would be more prudent to work the bottom of the slide to gain clearance so as not to make the frame rail smaller (B measurement), as it's already very close to matching the slide spec. can anyone weigh in on whether i am on the right track with that observation? (or any other suggestions..) the other thing i've wondered about is the differences between my measurements D & H - (inside width of slide rails) - is the ~0.010" difference going to matter significantly, or will the slide need to be tightened. I've measured some of my other 1911s and most of those dimensional differences (vertical/horizontal play) seem to be held to under 0.010 for the most part. thanks for any insights or ideas.

thanks for the input. the .45 1911 i already shoot is set up pretty well for L-10, and I don't feel particularly disadvantaged by it, for the most part. however, i want one in a .40 and rather than build a second top end, i'd just as soon have another one in the stable. i figure that a lighter slide, either via the sighttracker configuration or lightening cuts coupled with a bit more weight in the front are going to keep things a bit flatter, making the second shot a bit quicker. and, of course, .40 brass is a bit less. my own inclination has been more toward a single stack.. who might be a good source for putting together such a thing? anyone had something similar built? thanks.

i am looking to purchase or build a new gun for Limited 10 division and would like to hear some ideas and/or feedback on some of the thought's i've had on it. basically, i am considering a .40S&W, something along the lines of an STI Edge or Apeiro, or a slightly worked-over version of either (i.e., Brazos Edge) here's the catch, though.. I live in NY, so (post-94) 140mm mags for either of the 2011 guns are a no-go, hench the Limited-10 specific focus. I don't anticipate being in a position to leave NY in the foreseeable future, so I am not married to the idea of a double-stack "for later". in addition to the legal constraints, I am on the fence about putting the money into a double stack platform and dealing with the issues with tuning magazines, etc., where a single stack platform w/ 10 round mags would be a bit more straightforward, as far as i've read while doing some research. I already have a gun for Single Stack, so trying to pull double duty w/ a single stack build is a non-issue. any thoughts on what may serve to be a better option? anything that i should consider that i may not have? thanks..

another +1 on the RO. got one shortly after they came out. eats anything I've run through it, no reliability issues w/ CMC PowerMag 10rd mags. swapped MSH out with Dawson Ice magwell, installed 23lb mainspring, which improved things nicely. also added some VZGrips and a band of skater tape across the frontstrap. serves very nicely for L10. the one single complaint I have would be the squared off rear sight. i've gouged my palm a couple of times racking the slide. nothing a file and emory paper wouldn't fix, though. fit & finish is top notch - everything i expected, pleased with the purchase.

another +1 for the MME caddies. carry MME + AP Custom 4x4, but the MME are a smoother draw.

I had a similar issue this year with an XD40. I was loading Berrys 155 to 1.125 and they were no "making the turn", so to speak, into the chamber. They would go up the ramp, the bullet ogive would make contact with the top of the chamber and stop, leaving it jammed at an angle. i went the opposite direction and tried loading a bit shorter, tried a 19lb spring, neither really made much of a difference. always the same case, similar to yours, just giving the slide a slight tug would always take the pressure off the jam and allow it to feed, but it was killing me for competition. I've found that loading my loads out to mag length at about 1.130 helped with the feeding issues. not sure if it's the profile or what with the berrys, or the feedramp on the XD, but getting that bullet out there to make contact with the top of the chamber sooner cleared it up for me.. i've since moved away from Berrys to Bayou 180 at 1.130, and they run 100% for me, too.