SlowShooter

I have seen this also. Aside from the case length, check the extractor rim. A .380 and 9mm have different extractor groves: when viewed from the side a 9mm has a straight notch like a 40-cal but a .380 has an angled notch like a .45acp. I've seen the cases that are short like a .380 but extractor grove is wrong (it is like a 9mm). S&B brass, I think. Another thing to watch-out for is brass 9x18 Makarov cases, rare to see in brass but I have seen one or two mixed with .380 cases occasionally.

You can "measure" time with any good video editing software that has a Timeline editing feature ("tracks"). if it allows stepping forward/back by frame you can measure the stop/start of each event and get a time. Not automated (how would the software know what a "reload" is?) but can be done by-hand. Build-in video editor in Windows can't do it, but a good package like Sony Vegas home could (about $100). Vegas also makes very good video editing transitions and overlays, you could sync-up other shooter's footage and Synchronize the start Beep to see how you compare.

I found this chart on the Internet while researching military surplus powders. You should try to find a reliable load-manual to cross-reference these loads and ensure they are safe. Use at your own risk: I cannot verify the source or accuracy of this information. Also each lot of surplus powder may vary in potency, so be careful.

Someone on the AR-15 site has reloaded Steel Case .223 ammo. "Just to prove it can be done".

I think Mcracco and Dab are talking about different situations: Assuming all shots with barrel exactly horizontal, along an infinite ground plane, then: All bullet weights will hit the ground at the same "time" (they all fall at the same rate) but 'Trajectory' is different because a faster bullet travels farther (horizontally) in the same amount of time before it hits the ground. I think Dab might have been thinking of the case where the muzzle is horizontal and shoots at a vertical paper target. If shooting at a vertical piece of paper, then yes the faster bullet gets to the paper before the slower bullet, thus the slower bullet "spends more time in flight" (more time to fall) before it strikes the paper. ------ FWIW, I have seen this effect also (different POI with different weights) and I think it has very little/nothing to do with gravity or time-of-flight; I suspect but cannot prove that it is actually an effect of the mechanics of the pistol (barrel unlocking tilting? Or recoil forces?) because really I don't see how 50-100 FPS difference at a close-range pistol target amounts to enough of difference when gravity/falling effect is concerned. If you have a lighter bullet traveling at 1000 FPS and a heavier bullet at 900 FPS, at a vertical paper target 50 feet away then the time-of-flight difference is only 0.0055 of a second (5.5 milliseconds).

I've got one of those Troy Carbines, the Pmag (gen 2) can get stuck in the magwell , but the military-style metal magazines work fine. Don't know what the other rifle has, but FYI the Troy Carbine has 1:7 twist barrel.

On the "soap and toothpaste" idea: I used to travel alot and always took the little hotel soaps and shampoo and toothpaste, every day at every hotel. Eventually had a small bag full of that stuff. I had enough free soap and shampoo and toothpaste for about 6 months. In the winter I kept gradually turning the thermostat down 1-degree at a time to save on heating costs. But, My wife eventually caugh-on to that trick During the last shortage, I bought a .22 rifle and handgun that closely matched my center-fire guns, so I could shoot .22's for practice and conserve center-fire for use in competitions. Nowadays, I shoot rimfire competitions but I can't find any .22's :eek: so I shoot my Centerfire guns for practice and save my .22 ammo for competitions. I'm waiting for someone to say "I dig the lead out of berms and re-cast them for more bullets"

They sold out but are taking pre-order. At This rate the pre-orders will be filled-up long before the shipment arrives. (FYI: You must meet certain eligibility criteria to buy ammo from CMP)

Yeah just give a fake number, it's easier than arguing with the cashier.

Barrel Harmonics, I'm thinking. If he's shooting reloads that are tuned for that gun to give accuracy (or selected a factory ammo thus gives the best accuracy in that gun) then changing anything like barrel pressure points, barrel weight (weight on end of barrel) etc. there are two variables: the flash hider itself (gas redirection) and the weight on the barrel (barrel harmonics). A more appropriate test would be to remove the flash-hider and replace it with a thread-protector of exactly equal weight, then test group size. I have some factory ammo that will shoot off to the left slightly compared to other ammo that shoots slightly more to the right. Who knows? It's a game of experimentation.

I think your grossly overestimate the thoughtfulness of the average shooter. I believe that most people do _not_ have "supplies to last them a year" and only just-now decided they need to have more than 1 weekend's worth. when a bunch of people get up off their couch and order 6-months worth of ammo, primers, powder, etc. we have the shortage as we are seeing it now.

Auto-indexing press, and use the RCBS Lock-out die. It detects double-charge or empty case automatically and stops the press. I don't load without it.

There's some .22 ammo on GunBroker: http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=327149906 :eek:

I have broken two firing pins on Rimfire guns. I use to always say "ah that dryfire damage is a myth". we'll its not a myth to me after two broken firing pins into different guns. Just let people insert a chamber flag and bag it. A chamber-flag assures safety well enough, doesn't it?

+1 yeah... I'd suggest 03-A3 (better sights). Or the British Mauser variant, the p14 and by extension the US m1917. In my experience m1917's are a bit cheaper than Springfield 03-A3 just because of name recognition, but is still a great rifle don't overlook it. Plus, with the m1917 or Springfield rifles you can shoot 30-06 instead of trying to scrounge-up 8mm ammo. The good cheap 8mm surplus ammo all dried-up back in 2011 or so. Whereas 30-06 ammo and components are still available everywhere.

Another GSG-1911 in .22LR (same as the Sig .22LR 1911) user here, mine has been good but have been running it so hard had a few parts break. No big deal. If you want just a secondary gun to practice/play-around with the GSG-1911 is fine. If you want to get serious about it you need to replace some parts to add durability. If you want a gun that approximates your center-fire gun for practice, then GSG-1911 (if you are a 1911 shooter) or S&W's M&P-22 pistol (if you are a M&P kinda person). The M&P-22 is a great pistol no reliability probems in my experience, but trigger pull is not a great "competition" use trigger. If you want a dedicated steel-shooting pistol and don't care about it aproximating another center-fire pistol you own, then Ruger .22, Buckmark, or hey just spend the money on a S&W Model 41 if you're really serious

On a WW2 bring-back gun... Whoa, what is this, did I accidentally end-up on ARfcom ?! But yeah, A K98 is capable of good accuracy, if you got a good gun and you handload for it and your eyes are really good. I've got some old rifles that can shoot a sub-MOA groups, too. Might take me all day and 100's of round, but yeah eventually it happens

I collect Mausers and other old guns... Like anything else, It depends on "how much you are wiling to spend".... Almost all of the K98 Mausers you see in the $350-500 range will be Russian captures, that is how alot of K98's got imported to the US recently. The Russian captured k98 rifles have the bolt "force matched" to the receiver, there is an electro-pencil S/N written on the bolt to match the receiver. A true "war bringback" German k98 (not import-marked and not Russian-capture, bolt matching S/N) is $$$ expensive. There are many other variants of "Mausers" made by other countries (including the US) around the time of WW1 & WW2. If you want a Mauser that looks "unissued condition" as close to new as you are going to get, looks at a Yugo M48 or m24/47 version. all the ones I've seen are very nice (clean bores, no corrosion) around $250-$350 range, you can get a very high quality Mauser with that variant. One site selling Russian capture k98's: http://www.wideners.com/itemview.cfm?dir=700|701|1381 Mauser m24/47: http://www.classicfirearms.com/c-r-eligible?caliber=49 Mauser m48: http://www.wideners.com/itemdetail.cfm?item_id=100000268 Also the surplus rifle collectors forums can be a big help: http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/ All the ones I've listed shoot the standard 8mm Mauser ammo. It's not as plentiful as it once was but is still out there. Keep in mind if you buy another variant that is not 8mm Mauser the ammo costs and/or just finding ammo may be a hassle. Yes, "Mitchell's Mausers" is a dirty-word around the collectors forums. There are so many other good Mauser variant rifles still available (see above), I don't see why anyone would pay the money for a Mitchell's Mauser. Their rifles are created from mixed different variant parts. As far as I've seen, they are not completely "k98" rifles.

^ yes. Be careful you hold/clamp the _Barrel_ directly, not putting any torque on the upper or the handguard.

I guess I'm a little confused... If you clamp the barrel in a vice and unscrew the Flash Hider you will see the 1/2 x 28 threads underneath there. Unless you live in a restricted state and have a "ban-compliant" model ?

Still can't find .22 ammo anywhere in local WalMarts. Gun store has them but marked-up to $25 for Federal Bulk pack, but at least they have it. CCI MiniMag's are impossible to find, I may have to switch to CCI "tactical" (if i can find it) since they seem to be about the same thing, I think the difference is just a slightly different bullet profile and better marketing. My suspicion is the CCI MiniMags (40gn) are not being made because the machinery is being used to make CCI Tactical instead.

Previously, I won a gift-certificate for a Rifle that became a Marlin 795. This latest rifle I just won is a Savage 64F. It's a semi-auto .22LR, fed from a 10-shot box magazine.

A local range puts on a good Rimfire event. Last year they hosted the State level match (Ruger Rimfire) at their range, and back then I won a new .22 rifle (via a prize drawing). I used that rifle at the next few competitions, and placed high enough to get my name in-the-hat for another prize drawing. They did the drawing recently: I won another new .22 rifle ! The cycle continues.... Also I'm thrilled that I've actually found a sport that I'm good at

I got Hatcher's Notebook. Very cool, everything we think is "modern ballistics" is in there. How far will rifle shoot? what happens when bullets are fired up in the air? what happens if loose ammo is detonated (outside of a gun)? all already answered by Hatcher "back in the day". also, The Remington .223 is an "experimental light cartridge"

Yeah, I use CCI MiniMags when I'm doing a competition (for reliability)... For the past few months couldn't find any anywhere, they got bought-up? If I didn't know any better I'd think the factory stopped making them