bountyhunter

Darwin's work is never finished..... his DNA will likely be removed from the gene pool REALLY soon...

I'll bet this sounds familiar..... ordered an item off Amazon.com and paid with credit card. Charge appeared on 12/10....... and nothing was ever sent to me to this day. I sent five e-mails to the "seller" (thief) and never got a reply. I have filed a claim through Amazon to get re-imbursed..... we'll see how that goes, next stop will be to have the charge disputed on the credit card. BTW, the scammer in question is named on Amazon: UnbeatableSale, Inc Let the buyer beware.

Yeah..... I'm sure the people in line behind me would be thrilled with that. And then, REALLY happy when I needed to reverse the transaction when the dufus admitted the rebate form didn't have the items offered so I didn't want to pay their exhorbitant regular price. I'm too old to deal with people who can't do their jobs.... I get enough of that at work. Won't fly. Legally, they claim the dodge of "not responsible for misprints in ads". Look really close and most ads have that somewhere in tiny print.

This is the second and last time I get bit by the PEP Boys rebate scam: they advertise in the paper a terrific rebate (like $18 rebate on buying six quarts of really premium oil) so I go buy it. They give me the "rebate receipt" and the paperwork to submit for it.... when I go to fill it out, the oil offer is nowhere listed as available. I'm screwed. Same thing last week on Quaker State full synthetic: six quart purchase, $15 rebate..... I get the paperwork and go to fill it out and it is not offered. I already know the song if you go back and yell at them: "Not responsible for misprints in advertising...." "Advertising is generated by the headquarters..." They are done, done, done...... I will never go back. I will stick to Kragen's from now on.

Good point, the original post does read that way. Might be fixable just by upping the spring force a tad on the sear leaf (assuming the spring is OK). It's very easy to do by bending the spring leaf a touch.

I have a G35 (fixed sights) which I shoot 180-gr .40 from and also 115-gr 9mm from using an alternate barrel. I don't notice much difference in POI between them.

Anything can be made to fit... with a big enough hammer. Always remember the gunsmith's golden rule: Always grind on whichever part costs less to replace.

I feel your pain..... I did it to myself. I bought an aftermarket cold air induction system for my Chevy from Weapon-R and it was supposed to be a BOLT ON.... First day: much cussing and grimacing, ended bny replacing all the stock parts. Second day: armed with learned knowledge, managed to get it on..... with only about five hours of work to install this "20 minute" kit. Oh, well..... and the punch line is I have to take it all off and put all the stock parts on next september when I have to get it smog tested.... My five year old nephew got this toy plane for Xmas one year that made loud jet engine sounds and threw sparks when he rolled it's wheels on the floor.... which he did up and down the hallway outside my bedroom door starting at 4AM every day thereafter.

Sear nose is not engaging the full-cock notch on the hammer: 1) gun is assembled wrong (check sear spring leaf carefully, it may be on the wrong side) 2) sear nose broke off 3) hammer hook broke off

Do you have a set of drill bits? Use the shank (smooth end) wrapped in wet/dry sandpaper. I use #240, #400, #600 then a patch dipped in chrome polish. I do it by hand and it does take a long time, but the upside is you woun't take too much or "egg shape" the tube if you go slow. Use a micrometer or inside calipers to watch the size. Select the drill size for the best fit when the sand paper is wrapped around the shank. Cut a strip of paper mybe 3/4" wide, wrap it around the drill shank and then secure it on the outer edge with masking tape. Use oil while you sand in and out. progressively polish to fine finish.

YEP. My Sony 32" has a picture almost as sharp as HD when a good quality signal is broadcast (some of the PBS stations do that). Most people don't realize the crappy analog picture is because the stations are sending a lousy image or pinching pennies on transmitter power. Analaog TV is a very high performance medium......which is being killed off to sell a whole country full of people very expensive junk they don't really need.

That is impressive, and quite unusual. Free shipping is almost never provided these days..... and it costs about $60 to ship a pistol anywhere.

I don't mean this in a negative or disrespectful way but I'm thinking that this is what that company and many other companys count on. $30 here, and there adds up quickly. You're right, and in my younger days I would have gone to war over it but I have to pick my battles now. YEP.... my mom buys the full enchilada and it amazes me how they can pack 114 channels with pure garbage. It also amazes me that they charge you money to show you old reruns of shows from free TV... and as the final screw, they pack them so full of commercials you can't stand to watch.

Interesting, I hadn't thought of that.

You can try taking a little melatonin. Another thing that will knock you out is dramamine (or compazine) which are nausea meds. benadryl is also commonly used for this. BTW: welcome to the club, I've had the problem for decades now.

Addendum: On the CMC 10-rd mags, I have noticed that eight will feed NO PROBLEM.... but #9 and #10 will only feed if I position them just so. I "tap back" the first eight against the back wall and then the #9 and #10 are "stair cased" slightly forward, with #10 as far forward as possible so the nose will go up the magwell without hitting anything. The rims of the #9 and #10 rounds tend to "drag" a touch on the groove of the round below them, making it more likely for the nose to rotate downward as the slide pushes against the top of the (rear) of the rim. Feel free to straighten us all out. I don't think anybody knows exactly why the top two rounds are cranky to feed. It seems to me there is a "baseline angle" of the cartridge as set by the follower. With only a few rounds stacked, it is steeply up at the nose and has good up lift at the nose. As you stack on more rounds, the "angle of declination" gets flatter and the amount of "upward push" on the nose decreases. Past eight rounds it gets flat enough and weak enough that the slide coming forward can roate the nose down enough to slam-jam it into the bottom of the feed ramp.

That sucks. A long-distance service provider slammed my wife's account a while back with no warning at all. I called the SOB and he claimed my wife had 'signed up" and that he had her signature. I called him a liar and he said he would send it to me... of course, he couldn't. She got screwed out of maybe $30 so we wrote it off. the dipwad company was based 2000 miles away.

As said above, I've yet to see a good extractor fail. The ones I've seen lose tension were made of materail too "brittle" and so the tension you get from the bending procedure goes away (sometimes pretty quickly) as the steel takes a set.... and you nee to bend it again. Brain dead manufacturing, not a design problem.

Speaking of springs...... look at how much misery there is in the world because the people who make 1911's can't understand the extractor was supposed to be made out of "spring steel". I'll admit, that's a vague term..... but it does conjur up an image of steel that has some spring to it. Instead, we get cast parts that are brittle.... or MIM parts that are hardened.... and we all scratch our heads when they lose tension after 1000 rounds because bend in the steel "took a set" and doesn't have any spring tension? Oh, well.....

http://www.huntercustoms.com/

Para Ord has their "improved" extractor (compared to JMB's design) and it was shown in an ad with the title of something like: "Shown on the right is the MASSIVE CLAW of the Para blah, blah, blah...." Well, all it has to do is pull the empty out, it doesn't have to hold up your house. My Para's original extractor was a cast piece of junk, which begs the question: Did they need to redesign the 1911 extractor or just build one as per the original design? Is their "power extractor" enough of an inmprovement to justify it's existence? I still have the original extractor in my STI and it has done over 20,000 rounds and is still fine.

FYI, grease already is "oil and grease mixed together" since grease is nothing but a thickened suspecsion holding oil...... which is why it is better than liquid oil. It holds the lubricant in place instead of letting gravity send it falling onto your shoes. Blending grease and oil is advised when the ambient temperature and grease viscosity are such that it will make the gun not cycle correctly like when the grease on the slide rails is too thick.

Or he's using a standard jig which will only give good results with a standard dimension frame. I also suspect your frame's boss pin's are a bit off and he is dropping in "standard cut" pieces and is not smart enough to know better.

Especially when thieving morons running internet scams don't even use spell checker..... the latest scam-du-jour (BTW, I have never had any kind of Bank of America account in my life): Dictionary.com Unabridged (v 1.0.1) - Cite This Source tem·po·ral1 /ˈtɛmpərəl, ˈtɛmprəl/ Pronunciation Key - Show Spelled Pronunciation[tem-per-uhl, tem-pruhl] Pronunciation Key - Show IPA Pronunciation –adjective 1. of or pertaining to time. 2. pertaining to or concerned with the present life or this world; worldly: temporal joys. 3. enduring for a time only; temporary; transitory (opposed to eternal).

Ditto on reading the sights. You absolutely MUST keep your eyes open and use the muzzle flash as a backlight to snap a mental picture of where the gun was aimed as it went off. I suspect you will be surprised...... 7 o'clock is usually from trigger "yank", could be from milking also. Check dry fire using the same pull speed and motion and see which way the sights move. Get the trigger centered on the finger tip pad and see if that squares the gun up at pull. If all else fails, a tighter left hand grip usually holds the gun on line better. Yep. A perfect shot only requires two simple things: 1) Aim the gun in the right direction 2) Pull the trigger without moving it Most people are a lot better at #1 than they think, and WAYYYYY worse at #2 than they think.