Miker

Thanks Trey I will try to make it down...I saw directions on their website is there some kind of address to use for GPS?

My experience is completely opposite. I find it to be one of more consistent metering powders. Then again I run a UNIQUETEK micrometer dial and their baffle on my XL650 powder measure. Titegroup meters very well for me as well on both of my Dillons...550b and square deal this is one thing I really like about it in addition to the cost per round. I didnt like it last time I tried lead bullets as it produced alot of smoke compared to jacketed bullets, I will be trying the new (to me) bayou coated lead bullets later this week using titegroup they say they dont smoke I will find out. If they work out I will save enough on 2500 rounds 180 gr. to buy 4lbs of titegroup (approx $70.00). It's not the powder, it's the bullet lube on the cast lead bullets that smoke, and gunk up the gun so bad. If you don't like the excess smoke, the coated bullets, as you mentioned, are the way to go. I use cast lead in practice to save money, and use JHP's for matches. Chris Yes I understand thats why they smoke, but why shoot lead to practice and JHP's for matches is it the smoke or is there a accuracy difference? Mainly because of the smoke. I've had a few experiences in a match, especially early in the morning on the 1st stage, when the smoke was so bad that I couldn't see a target. I've been told numerous times by a lot more experienced handloaders that jacketed hollow points are more accurate. At my level of shooting I'm not sure that I'm able to take advantage of the difference in accuracy. But, I have to admit that it is another reason for using the hollow points in a match. Although the excessive gunk from using cast lead has never caused my gun to malfunction in a match or practice, I still want the gun to be as clean as possible for the duration of the match, so that's another reason. I know of at least two guys that use the molly coated bullets for matches and practice. I haven't heard any negative comments from them, and they are better and more experienced practical shooters than I am. I'm not sure, but I think they buy them from Jerry Miculek's brother. I think the company is Bayou Bullets. I use Dardas cast bullets, but they aren't coated; just cast bullets. The bullet lube they use doesn't seem to smoke as bad as a few others I've tried. All the best, Chris Yes thats what I thought on the smoke but hadnt heard JHP was more accurate many really good shooters use lead in our local matches only thing Ive noticed is the smoke, they seem to do very well shooting them accuracy will be something else for my research. My Bayou bullets will be here soon for me to do testing on using titegroup and I also purchased some n320 to try as well.

My experience is completely opposite. I find it to be one of more consistent metering powders. Then again I run a UNIQUETEK micrometer dial and their baffle on my XL650 powder measure. Titegroup meters very well for me as well on both of my Dillons...550b and square deal this is one thing I really like about it in addition to the cost per round. I didnt like it last time I tried lead bullets as it produced alot of smoke compared to jacketed bullets, I will be trying the new (to me) bayou coated lead bullets later this week using titegroup they say they dont smoke I will find out. If they work out I will save enough on 2500 rounds 180 gr. to buy 4lbs of titegroup (approx $70.00). It's not the powder, it's the bullet lube on the cast lead bullets that smoke, and gunk up the gun so bad. If you don't like the excess smoke, the coated bullets, as you mentioned, are the way to go. I use cast lead in practice to save money, and use JHP's for matches. Chris Yes I understand thats why they smoke, but why shoot lead to practice and JHP's for matches is it the smoke or is there a accuracy difference?

My experience is completely opposite. I find it to be one of more consistent metering powders. Then again I run a UNIQUETEK micrometer dial and their baffle on my XL650 powder measure. Titegroup meters very well for me as well on both of my Dillons...550b and square deal this is one thing I really like about it in addition to the cost per round. I didnt like it last time I tried lead bullets as it produced alot of smoke compared to jacketed bullets, I will be trying the new (to me) bayou coated lead bullets later this week using titegroup they say they dont smoke I will find out. If they work out I will save enough on 2500 rounds 180 gr. to buy 4lbs of titegroup (approx $70.00).

Are you still having 3 gun shoots I cant find any info on your website?

I have both of these handguns STI Executive .40 bull and STI Eagle bushing barrel .40 the Eagle seems to swing just a bit faster but I like the Executive (Edge) better for USPSA major. I use the Eagle for 3 gun and steel challenge as its lighter in the holster and I download the .40 to be more on par with the guys shooting 9mm. I had the same triggers put in both guns and run the same magwells. I love both handguns expensive but to me worth every penny. I find the .40 to be a very versatile round.

Would you guys mind sharing some load data for .40 cal 165grn and 180 grn fmj using N320, 1.185-1.195 col. major pf Im always willing to try something better if its worth the cost difference.

What do you mean by softness of rescomp tubes I was thinking about trying the above setup using rescomp tubes but I want dependability.

I have read your thread several times and each time I pick up something new from it....just saved it to my favorites on my computer. I like others on here thank you for your time and efforts.

Wow this all makes me feel much better as like many I feel a bit guilty the night before and when leaving the house in the morning, from that time on no guilt. For me shooting is my time and without my time I would probably go crazy. It helps to have a woman that understands this and kids that are raised.

No problem here using titegroup, I load .40 165 fmj and 180 fmj and 9mm 147 fmj cheap to shoot, acurate at least to me. You just need to be carefull not to double charge

I did this mostly because of vacation, I didnt even pick up my gun for over 2 weeks, but I did practice holding my hands out working on the neutral grip in Brian Enos book, and natural POA shot Yesterday (practice)my shooting improved greatly. My focus one front sight and target was greatly improved and my front sight was landing in the rear notch almost like slow motion. The thing I noticed was I was shooting high is there some reason for this, should I adjust sights?

I run them thru after they're cleaned and before they hit my square deal... I run mine through a case check gauge after loading process on my square deal and my 550 press, the ones that dont fit are run through my bulge buster and gutted Lee FCD, sometimes I dont get any that dont fit other times I guess depending on range brass I might get 10% that have to be run through bulge buster. I guess most of the time the bulge is removed by the sizing die. The Lee rep. said bulge buster was perfectly safe to use on loaded ammo.

Ive loaded at least 8000 rounds of .40 using range brass and my picked up brass at best the most Ive found that didnt gauge was maybe 15 out of 100 are you runnig your brass through the Bulge Buster before you load or after bullets are loaded?

Joe, Not to change intent of this thread but being new to USPSA, ever since I first shot USPSA I heard you dont want to go to slide lock. I use Dawson followers (19 in mag 1 in chamber total of 20 rounds)that wont slide lock, when I first started I never ran my gun dry, just lately I guess just having so much blasting I have run my gun dry on more than one occasion. Slide lock would have saved me alot of time e.g. knowing gun was empty instead click and what the heck.... I need to reload insert mag, rack slide. Why not use Grams followers without modifying to prevent slide lock?

BHE, there is another local club which I shoot at. Central Carolina Shooting Club (CCSC). First weekend of every month we shoot steel challenge. Second weekend is IDPA. Third weekend is USPSA. Fourth weekend is 3-Gun Events. Fifth weekends are Fun Shoots. Let me know if you can't find the website and I'll post the link up. Blcksmk (Taylor) Thanks for the link!! I went to the website but it says the 3-gun comps have been cancelled as of July 1st. (??) Theres a 3 gun match in Bostic NC last sat of every month....Walnut Grove 3 Gun, great match mix of everything, it might be almost 2 hour drive for you though.

I use Dillon .40 sizing dies both on my 550b and my square deal presses, they are set up the way the book says. I called the Dillon rep when I had problems with occasional failure to feed he said my dies were set right (over the phone) and to lube my cases, a little better on my arm but still (range brass) maybe 15 or less out of 100 wouldnt fit in case gauge and out of those 15 or so that didnt fit case gauge at least half wouldnt chamber in my barrels. Maybe the chambers on my guns (STI) or a little tighter than yours, when I shoot brass shot from my guns or other 1911 style guns I have no problems at all. I have enough problems when shooting in competion and I want my equipment and ammo to be 100% so any bad stages are my fault. Actually loading bad ammo would fall into the my fault category. With that being said I am always open to a better way of sizing my brass, but I wont get rid of the chamber checking step its worth the extra couple of minutes to me...during the case check process Ive found cases that were split, high primers...etc.

What was the question?? Leave your questions next time, it might help others who have the same question. I just received my 013 today. Getting ready to mess with it now Flyin I bet his question was about making it work for a 2011 frame, it comes with a spacer in it to work for 1911 and you have to remove it. The directions that come with holster are kind of vague, I found mine when it slipped out onto my bench.

Thanks for links BK and everyone else for your imput on this matter everyone has a opinion and is good to hear all. Instead of messing with my mags that run flawlessly...just buy one good higher capacity tuned...makes sense to me.

Yes now that I can see the sights I will have to work on my shooting ability as I dont have the vision excuse anymore

I have been told there is a unsupported area at bottom of case head when round is chambered especially on older .40's

You hit it on the head here starting with 20 in mag and one in barrel seems to me to make sense and 19 reloadable, although I'm the guy that hunts with fully loaded rifle and carry 5 extra in my pocket for one shot, I start a stage with 20 rounds in gun and 3 mags with 19 each in them for a 31 round stage (never know maybe some mag malfunction, drop a mag etc) I pack a weeks worth of clothes for a 3 day trip if I need them they are there. I guess the Murphies Law thing is what I'm trying to avoid.

I guess its just like a security blanket kinda thing in case of a miss or 5 and blowing my reload plans Im new to USPSA and competition shooting in general and have a problem of sometimes having so much fun I'll run my gun dry or having extra mikes that I have to make up. I agree, I came to this conclusion at area 5 this year, there were enough hard shots and small far steel you could never really plan for maximum use of magazine capacity. if you are shooting 18 to 20 rounds there has to be movement plan a reload. This might not be necessariy if it is a hoser stage with everything close and fast but how often do you see one of those besides at your local club. The STI style gun reloads like a dream, practice and don't sweat the small stuff. Im not a GM and maybe at that level this might matter but I bet if you look at your runs there is plenty of other stuff to work on to shave seconds.

Are you running brass only through this setup? When I first started loading .40 using range brass I would find maybe 15 to 20 or less out of 100 rounds wouldnt fit in the case gauge. Started researching on how to remove the Bulge at bottom of case, I came up with the redding G-RX die first but the problem with it is it only works on unloaded brass and I never know if my brass is bulged until loaded. Also the regular Redding die for around $35.00 isnt carbide, the carbide one is around $65.00. The only way I could figure to use this setup was to either size all my brass then run it through the Redding die slowing my reloading process to much, or reloading all my rounds normally and the one that didnt fit in case gauge would have to be pulled resized and run through the Redding die. These methods didnt sound to good to me so with further research I came up with using a gutted Lee factory crimp die and the Lee bulge buster kit. I called Lee as I wanted to make sure this setup would work for loaded ammo and was told it was designed for this as the pusher on the bulge buster kit is hollow under the primer and makes no contact with the primer on loaded round. This whole setup carbide factory crimp die and bulge buster kit cost around $35.00, not counting the single stage press I have it mounted in. The bulge buster kit comes with instructions on what parts to remove from the FCD and a plastic bullet catcher, I know you can have a sizing die made that runs farther down on case but I prefer only giving extra sizing to brass that needs it.

The way I miscount rounds during a stage I need all the rounds I can pack in a mag, I was just thinking if mag would hold 21 it should work reliably with 20 rounds for reload, and to start Barney one round and a 21 round mag total of 22 to start stage....just a little cushion and I need all the cushion I can get.