mizer67

I use Starline for new cases if I feel spendy, but what's the "best" brass that's available once fired?

The measure is fantastic. I use it on my Dillon as well as my LNL AP. Almost always spot on and never more than +/- .1 grain with ball or flake powders. I had an inconsistency issue when I first started loading a few years back with the measure and discovered I hadn't cleaned it enough. It's literally covered in grease and even cleaning with One Shot Cleaner didn't fully remove the stuff on mine. I found that some powder I was dropping was sticking to the inside of the measure (still) after I had cleaned it, leading to inconsistent drops. I hit it with brake cleaner and it dropped consistently afterwards. I also had an issue later where I had used One Shot Case Lube on the pistol cases prior to running them through the machine. I had apparently used too much on the case necks, as it accumulated on the bottom of the powder drop funnel and caused enough powder to stick to obstruct the opening.

Ramshot Silouette is the only pistol powder of theirs I've used. Very accurate with a 115 FMJ at ~1.140" OAL with 5.9 grains of Silouette in 9mm.

I happened to have some N340 on hand, and tried your 4.8 grain load with a 124 PD JHP at 1.085 and 1.095" OALs with a .375 crimp. I shot two 2.55" (each) 15 round groups at 25 yards out of a Glock 17 from a flimsy club Caldwell shooting rest. I think there's more left and it's a true sub 2" performer from a Glock. I'm not the best shot, and I was fairly impressed with the consistency. It clocked 1,055 fps across my chrono.

I definately enjoy reloading for pistols more. Reloading for high-volume rifles can be a real drag. I hate brass prep.

If you're buying powder, Powder Valley is almost always the cheapest. They have cheap Win SP primers, and Russian primers also. I can usually find better deals on just SP primers at Grafs though.

They're 124 gr CMJ, sorry. 4.2 grains of TG makes 136 PF. I'll try them at 1.125" OAL.

I do load fairly long (1.140" OAL with a Montana Gold CMJ). I've done the drop and spin test, and can't tell that these rounds are touching the rifling, but will chamber check a "lot" and see what I find. Good to know there's another option, however, if I can't find the problem in my ammo.

Second gun, the 5" pro is untouched stock, it's only a ~month old. It of course has the Pro sear. It runs the worst of the two. The FSS 4" gun runs better than stock, but it does have the SSS extra power striker spring installed. I'm sensitive to the high primer issue and visually/physically check all of them prior to shooting.

One tip is to get the bullets as close to the seating station (#4 for me) as possible. Dillon does a good job of this with the bullet tray if you have a strong mount. The more efficiently, with as little wasted movement as possible, you seat a bullet (after checking the powder charge of course) the more speed will come.

As I mentioned in the OP, I'm already running an extra powered striker spring from SSS in one of my M&Ps, and still get less than 100% ignition. My newest M&P Pro 5" has ~300 rounds, and has worse issues than my other guns, so it's not the striker channel being dirty, but yes, I clean them regularly and don't use any lube in the channel.

I've cooked a F/O rod using TG. 50 rounds isn't enough to do it, but if you use your gun as a bullet hose, the slide will burn you if you touch it. I'm still using TG for most of my practice ammo, at least until I find something better.

I'm having issues getting primers to light in my M&Ps. They only run near 100% with Federals. Win SP light off pretty good, and CCIs are the worst with 3-5% FTFs. I've tried switching reloading presses, going from a Hornady LNL to a Dillon XL650, but the problem persists from old press to new press. Extra power striker springs from Speed Shooter Specialties seem to help, but my guns still don't run 100%. While it's possible it's operator error, my other striker fired pistols run 100% even with CCIs (Glocks / Wather PPQ). I'm running factory springs in two M&Ps and an extra powered striker spring and Apex FSS in another. I'm using factory recoil springs. Does anyone know of someone that makes an extended firing pin for M&Ps, or of someone that can modify a factory one? Or something else I can look for to completely eliminate light primer hits?

I've loaded around 40 - 50K on my LNL. It was my first progressive. It's a good press for the money, if you're hand feeding cases. My case feeder was a huge POS/PITA for loading 9mm. Tilting cases, brass rain, cases flying off the slider, many case feeder jams, etc. Lack of primer seating leverage and the resulting light strikes was what had me ultimately switch to a Dillon XL650, though. Here's what I miss about the LNL vs. the XL650: 1.) Powder measure is simpler, easier to adjust and more consistent across a wider number of powders (I use the Hornady case activated measure on my Dillon) 2.) Shell plate retaining spring 3.) LNL bushings and the larger size of the toolhead (much less cramped, easier to use standard die lock rings and make adjustments) 4.) Simplicity of the machine in general, ease of changeovers and adjustments 5.) Hornady's primer sliding system vs. the XL650 where primers advance when no case is present 6.) Spent primer catch system is better designed out of the box 7.) Location of station #4 (easier to see into the casing to check powder level) I still keep my Hornady set up for low volume calibers.

I've not found ~4.1 - 4.4 grains of N320 with 124 grain bullets to be an accurate combination in my guns. Works better with heavier bullets in my experience.

My issue was watching the plates, not the sights. That and going too fast for my skill level.

I used to use a single stage press to load 3-400 handgun rounds a week. That got hard to keep up with as I shot more often, and life got busier. While you can't multi-task while using a progressive, I now can load 100 rounds in ~8.5 minutes on a case fed XL650 or ~15-18 minutes per 100 on a Hornady LNL AP, dumping powder, picking primers, verifying charge weight, etc. If you can't be vigilant for 8 minutes at a time, don't buy the progressive. If you leave it set up, it's so easy to bang out 1-200 rounds a night that I would never go back to a SS press, even if my shooting volume dropped significantly, for handgun rounds. It'd feel like cutting grass with a scissors.

I would cringe paying factory prices for ammo. I know for me I just wouldn't shoot as much as it would psychologically "hurt" more. I will say this, buy once, cry once. Don't cheap out on your equipment. Buy the best you can afford, as it really does make a difference. I enjoy reloading much more moving from another well thought of progressive press to a Dillon. When that thing is running well it's a joy ot load on. I've had a few startup issues, but nothing compared to what I was used to dealing during a loading session using my other press.

If I push the case into the center or simply wiggle it a bit, I'll allow the primer to seat. The press may be slightly out of time as you and others have suggested.

Tried adjusting the set screw already, no joy.

Is there any way to get the locator arm in Station #2 of an XL650 to exert a little more force on the case to center it in the shell plate? I'm crushing ~5-8 primers per 100 and I believe I've narrowed it down to the locator arm. If I push the case to the center of the shell plate by hand, the primer seats easily. I'm thinking of just bending the locator arm inward, are there any other tweaks to make before trying this fix?

Four possible causes: 1.) Debris on seating punch 2.) Primer tilted during seating 3.) Too much force applied to seat the primer 4.) Primer seating punch was not machined completely square #1 and #2 have been covered. #3 - If I use too much force on my LNL, I can cause a concave impression in the primer. I assume it's possible with the 550 as well. #4 - I've had a primer punch not machined completely square that retained a small zit of metal in the center that would slightly dimple primers during seating.

XL650 I'm guessing?

Of the powders you have mentioned, I have seen really good accuracy using WSF. On the other hand, N320, though it meters well and it is a really clean, it is not the most accurate powder I have ever tried. For the games, under a 147 gr Zero JHP, it's accurate enough. Not bullseye accurate, true.

I haven't noticed temp. sensitivity in TG myself, but where I live we have two seasons: 1.) Hot and 2.) Not quite as hot. I load at 4.2 because I live near sea level and have lots of humidity. Loading at much less than 4.2 grains of Tightgroup, my 4" M&Ps with slower barrels and Montana Gold bullets will sometimes not make minor. My G17 will, but I prefer one load, and 4.2 grains clocks 1,100 fps with a 124 CMJ or JHP from MG at 1.145" OAL, which is as long as I can run across all of my guns.