jtaylor996

Ok. I guess I don't need the powder funnel, then. I've never loaded any rifle loads before... this is my first attempt at it. I'm loading 300BLK. I've got a sheridan case gauge to test my sizing (to make sure I'm not moving the neck around). The dies are forster, and a lee factory crimp. If the sizer does the expansion, then will I have to load full rounds before I can't test them in the sheridan gauge?

I already use one for pistol stuff. powderfunnels.com, I think it was. Makes sense I would want another one.

I use an LnL AP press, and I want to add a second powder measure for rifle, rather than switching all of the parts back and forth all the time. So what parts do I need? Is it just these two: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/591344/hornady-case-activated-powder-drop http://www.midwayusa.com/product/290524/hornady-lock-n-load-powder-measure Or are there even more parts I'm going to need? Thanks in advance!

So yeah, will they send me new tips for all my 300blk amax??

Too much crimp is just as likely to overpressure a round as setback. Those rounds you made need to all be pulled, the bullets trashed, and start over again. The rule is to flare just enough to get the bullet in there, and then crimp just enough to make it straight again.

I had no issue getting to major PF with titegroup. It's just the groups were not tite, and it was pretty dirty.

That's 4.8gr of n320. I don't think I went that high with titegroup. I never found an accurate load with titegroup. I'm loading to 1.200".

Well, I loaded from 4.2 - 4.8. I guess I should be going higher to make PF, though. I hadn't seen any major load data for very long OAL like I'm using... which is why I may end up being short. I'm planning on loading tonight, and hopefully testing this weekend.

Great, now shoot the snot out of it!

I carry a heavy 5" SS frame kimber with a magwell. I agree it's all holster. I forget it's there (as much as that's possible) when carried in my milt sparks vm2.

I never found a magic titegroup load for major, but I found a fantastic one for minor. I've been stocking up on powders, and I'm trying n320 next. I also have some others to try: Ramshot Competition WST CFE Pistol

That's a really good deal. My last buy was 1700 of the blue 180s for $160.

giant rectangular pipe bomb. I've heard they don't blow up when it's just primers in the safe. After a fire, however, your guns and everything in the safe will be confetti'd to death. There was a firefighter who posted about this happening once. The safe didn't blow up, but everything inside was destroyed when the primers went off.

They are pretty responsive to these questions in their vendor tent forum.

Now you just need a vibraprime for bullets

I blame the static. I'm using similar loads, same equipment with no issues ever.

Thanks, Youngeyes. I think I got the last pound of it. I also picked up 4 pounds of WST while I was there!

Russ, to be honest here, I don't think you realize just how lucky you are. When people make the mistakes you did, they: 1. Die 2. Lose fingers or eyes 3. Destroy guns ANY of those types of reloading mistakes is a HUGE DEAL and should be a wake up call that you need to change your whole approach to reloading and safety, or just never reload again. That you had a kaboom and had no injury is AMAZINGLY LUCKY, it never ends that way. You double charging was a big mistake, but the bigger ones were not paying attention (reloading simply isn't for people who aren't extremely anal), and that you didn't stop shooting when something wasn't right (3 "hot" shots). The best advice I can give you is this: 1. Check your process. Start with equipment setup, how you verify it (all the measurements you take), and how you will start low and work your way up on loads. Finally, how you will test the loads (chrono). 2. STOP if something isn't right. When you're loading, when you're measuring, and when you're shooting. 3. Get an RCBS lock out die. It's really easy as a beginner to no or double charge on a progressive press. This device locks the press up and destroys the round if the it's not right. 4. Read everything you can get your hands on. 5. Ask yourself if you're having fun. Force yourself to double or triple check everything as you go. If that is torture to you, maybe reloading isn't for you. I hate to say this also, but no LnL kit has anywhere near everything you need. Off the top of my head you must have: good calipers, good scale and calibration weights, chrono, chamber gauge, organization stuff (ammo boxes and load labels). Without any of those I would never be able to load safely. Literally: dead caliper battery? Not loading today. Can't find the calibration weights? Not loading today. No way to store and ID loaded ammo? Not loading today.

You can't say that and not post the video. You just can't.

I could calculate how far off, but the ballistics calculations I use in my job all start off at about 24,933fps...

That last before after pic breaks my heart. Movers stole a shotgun (in that before condition) almost exactly like that LC smith (except mine had a Damascus barrel), when I was a kid. All I have left is some of the stock

The reason I ask is that when I was making 9mm loads (years ago), I just loaded as long as possible (but I have a short chamber, so OAL was 1.095"), and then went for minor velocity with good consistency on the chrono. I was never thrilled with the accuracy, though. Loading for my new to me SVI 40, I shot over the chrono while using a (crappy) bench rest. There was an order of magnitude improvement in group size with one particular minor load (most were like 8-12" ten shot groups, but that one was just over 2" at 25yd). I never found a major load that did the same. Now, that "magic" minor load for me also had the lowest SD on the chrono, so maybe shooting off the rest wasn't necessary after all.

So is the only way to find the best accuracy by trying every possible OAL on a bench rest? If doing a sweep across OALs, do you change the powder load each OAL to get consistent velocity, or tune that after you get a good oal?

I honestly didn't have much choice on the pins. The C&S holes were too tight and I didn't want to ream them. Drill rod is easy, just find the bit shank that fits and cut to length. I kept the swartz because this is my carry gun, believe it or not.

How the look with the GS: