Ryan N
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Posts posted by Ryan N
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I amazed at how well my 24"3000 hits with slugs. I have only shot 3 slugs through mine, but they were all 3 in the -0 or -1 on an IDPA target at 100 yards. This was with the factory front sight(which does seem a little big, but it seems to work well).
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Ya know Jessie, no one can say that you went conservative.
I tend to agree with you on the welded lifter. It is definitely not "needed", but it would be nice....especially as we move the front of the loading port forward(further away from the front edge of the lifter. I have accidently "ghost loaded"(sorry for the term) a time or two when practicing reloaded and a slightly extended lifter would help prevent this.
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BOOM,
IC, Mod and Cyl are in stock individually. That's what I ended up doing.
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IMO, a good amount to bring is to double the min amount. There is nothing more nerve racking than when you are loading up to shoot your last stage and you don't have enough ammo to fill your mags/shell holders up.
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I bought the Benelli Mobilechokes from CDNN for $12.99 and am happy with them. They also have a set for ~$45 plus shipping.
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I have shot 5k of the bi-metal Tula and Wolf and now another 1k of std FMJ. My non-chrome lined barrel has recently began showing signs of lose of accuracy at 300yds. I used to could shoot a 3" five shot group at 300 yds, but now the barrel is doing good to keep them on a 9" paper plate at 300. I just ordered a new barrel and plan to shoot mostly FMJ.
I never experienced any issues with Tula, Herters or Wolf. Much of it also shot MOA in my Wilson barrel.
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Too late,I have ordered the CPWSA barrel. Thanks for the replays and suggestions.
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I shot my first match with my M3000 yesterday. It ran 49 rounds of Estate 1 1/8oz #8 3dram with zero issues. Stage 5 required 28 birdshot, so the barrel did heat up a little bit.
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Pistol 198
Rifle 123
Bird 116
Slugs 19
Total 456
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Just to clarify, I now reload .223. I no longer run bi-metal bullets. I use 55gr Hornady.
I have Emailed Chris Patty at CPWSA and am leaning toward his barrel.
Thanks for all of the suggestions.
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I've done half a dozen CPWSA barrels. They're a good grab for sure. All were tack drivers. Only little nagging detail is that they don't polish the feed ramps. Other than that they're good to go.
Yeah, I have 6k rounds of mostly bi-metal through my barrel and its showing signs of being worn out. The rifle has been fantastic and I don't really want to go changing gas tube, buffer, spring, etc. I'm thinking a simple barrel swap and hopefully I will be good to go. I have also reload rifle now and no longer shoot bi-metal.
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I've done half a dozen CPWSA barrels. They're a good grab for sure. All were tack drivers. Only little nagging detail is that they don't polish the feed ramps. Other than that they're good to go.
Great to hear. Do you know what gas port size it has? I don't have an adjustable GB.
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Can you push it up to 270 and get a Nordic barrel. You will be very happy mine shoots as good as my JP barrel.
Pat
I'm only seeing 18" with rifle length gas systems. Those do look nice and the free shipping helps out.
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The diameter on my 24" barrel is .825-.830" when measuring 19" from the breech face.IF the use is 3 gun why would you cut the barrel so short? Get a 24" and be happy
^^^What Pat said.^^^. Sticking a $100-200 barrel cut, rethread and new chokes into a $450 shotgun doesn't make much sense. Much like the Benelli M2 the Stoeger M3000 and other inertia guns it is very light weight even in 26,28, & 30" lengths. That $200 could be used to have all of the extras added to the factory gun and you'd be set.
To this I'd also add that I have the 26" version and I have no problems with weight or swinging it around. Pick up a 24" and give it a try.
I completely understand what you all are saying and I totally agree. I get the whole point of this thread is an affordable 3 gun shotgun. I was thinking of this a mutli-use barrel length (possibly also hunting or defense). I was thinking of possibly picking up a second barrel for this to have cut or just leave alone. I am just curious if there is any difference in the barrel wall thickness between the different lengths in case I ever decide to have one cut down. Anyone able to measure?
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I am looking for a mid length 16" barrel that will give me sub MOA. I have been super happy with my hbar Wilson that came on my RRA. But after 6K rounds of Wolf, accuracy is getting a little bit sketchy. I will be mainly shooting 55gr projectiles. I am currently looking at:
CPWSA, fluted, 1-9 for $239
ICE Arms, 416R SS, Polygonal, .082 gas port, 1-8 $189(currently non in stock)
Blackholeweaponry, SS(no specs provided), Polygonal 1-8 $249
Any other suggestions?
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4-4-1 or 3-4-2 gets my vote.
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Awesome Tom. I will keep an eye out on the MOA vender page for these.
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I gotta say, I'm glad I don't live in Chicago. I did enjoy visiting there though.
The bolt handle that came on my VM(Nordic) will fit into my Stoeger hole. The OD of the Nordic and Stoeger is nearly identical. The Nordic has a more blunt end on it and therefor is harder to get into the Stoeger bolt. But it will go and it does fit fine. The problem comes when you cycle the action. The rotating bolt has to clear the bolt handle(inside the bolt). Trimming one side like iswope did should work fine, but won't allow the handle to "spin". I would also be a little concerned about the handle rotating to a position that may not allow the bolt to cycle.
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Consider sending it to Stoeger. My M3000 came with a "5 year warranty" tag on the receiver.
Yeah I don't want to spend money on it if I can help it. I've done my own hack jobs on my Benelli and Versamax, I can't really justify sending off a barrel from a $450 shotgun if I can make it useable on my own. I care less about it looking good than I do just keeping the rib from falling off.Is send it to Briley. They ain't cheap but they are good. Your good just got not so good.
You might talk to Steve Rose at Rose a Action Sports too. He knows a thing or two about shotguns.
On the other hand, another vote for silver solder if you want to keep it local. Check with your local gunsmith.
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Remington did nothing about my barrel. I have ordered a 10/22 rear sight and plan to dovetail it onto the rib too.
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My stock trigger is measuring ~7.3lbs on my dig Lyman gauge. It is just a little heavier but less creep than my stock VM.
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Thanks for the info. I may try the spacer if I see a need.
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I have recently purchased a RAM Shell caddy for L2 from Brownells to try out. The shells are very close together which I suspect turns many folks off. But I find that they work well...especially since I don't have much real estate(29" waist) . It holds the shell very secure, but I have also not had any issues pulling them out. The 6 shell caddy takes up just a little bit more space than the AP 4x4. It also comes with Tek-Lok for less than $50.
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I think I found a good buy on extended choke tubes. Beretta MobilChoke are the correct ones, right? CDNN has them for $12.99. They have Cyl, Imp, Mod and Full. I was thinking about getting the Imp and Mod.
Suggestions for good barrel for <$250
in Rifle - Technical
Posted · Edited by Ryan N
1:9 is correct. 1:9 is all that is offered but fits my need very well. I don't plan to shoot any 75gr bullets although there are reports that 1:9 will shoot 75 and 77gr bullets just fine(actually, some fine, some not).