Ryan N
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Posts posted by Ryan N
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IMO as long as the tabs are turned the same for the duration of the match, then it's all good.
BTW, I really like these small knock down plates.
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I'm thinking about doing the same to a recently acquired 24. I wonder if Glock would even have a 24 slide to replace it with? It is discontinued correct? Besides, if you shoot it enough to crack the slide, you probably got your money's worth out of it.
That's a good point about shooting it enough to crack it. I plan to go fairly conservative with the milling due to shooting Major. I won't mill too thin anywhere If i decide to go ahead with this.
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The height of the rear sight would be needed. Having the front sight that is .035" shorter than the rear sight works for me. I align the front of my front sight where I want the bullet to go.
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I recently aquired a Glock 24 and I shot it for the first time yesterday at a USPSA match in Limited Major. It was a game changer for me from shooting Limited Minor with my G34.
I am a machinist and it will cost me nothing to mill some slots, etc in the slide. I have milled on 2 Glock slides in the past.
Cons:
- could weaken the slide
- will likely void any chance of Glock replacing the slide if crack develops
Pros:
- reduced reciprocating mass
- increase gun handling
- looks cool
I like the look of the slots on this ZEV slide. I wouldn't likely thin the slide like they do though.
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That is interesting. Keep us posted.
I recently bought a G24 that I am considering milling some slots in the slide to remove some weight.
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Jesse, I'm really sorry to hear about that nut locking up on you. Thanks for sharing the incident. I suspect that with no barrel on the gun the nut screwed on further than normal and the outer and inner threads began binding due to the threads beginning to taper at the end of the threads. In the future, some anti-seize will likely help with this.
Balmo, Congrats on your first match with a great gun. I suspect that you are hooked.
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zeroniner, what ammo are you running? If you are running hot ammo, they you may be getting a little bit more bolt slap than you would with the 3dram and low recoil slugs that most of us are running. But honestly, I haven't noticed a "clack" with any ammo I have tried.
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Zeroniner, no doubt you will be a happy camper....or should I say shooter.
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Thanks for the photos. That is excellent.
Ryan it fits the rib perfectly, here are some photos man and I really do like it.Oskino, do you have any photos of the HiViz mounted on the gun? Is the sight a little wider than the rib? And does the location of the tapped hole work out well with the location on the sight?
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Oskino, do you have any photos of the HiViz mounted on the gun? Is the sight a little wider than the rib? And does the location of the tapped hole work out well with the location on the sight?
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ok thanks, Tom I went ahead and installed the Kick Ezz pad on the Stoeger the one you recommended, here are some photos not as good a fit as yours but good enough for me. Honestly got tired of sanding, I also hacked off a inch off the stock. What are your thoughts of "kick" or "recoil" after you ran your Stoeger with it?Tom, I have 3 gun match on Sat and I went ahead and took apart the Stoeger overall very clean. I am wondering wet bolt, slight wet or dry?? I went with slight wet as I usually run it that way.
I run light oil on the carrier rails and on the bolt head where it slides on the cam pin. Seems to run ok wet or dry, but wear comes from friction. So I oil the areas that rub, just enough to feel slick but not enough to goop up and attract dirt. So I guess that is a long winded way of saying slight wet works well for me!
At Ironman I ran nearly dry except the rails, as the gritty dust seemed to stick to anywhere that oil was exposed. The rails are basically completely enclosed so I didn't see any grit working its way in there.Looks really good. You just need to grind a bit more in a few areas to make it match the contour of the stock...or not.
Thanks the the tips Tom.
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Guys, are 40 round AR magazines allowed?
It depends on your USPSA classification. If your above a B class shooter then you have to use 30 rounds or less.
In all seriousness, they are allowed.
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There is one more opening in the Pro match, I recently found out that I would be out of the country the week of the Pro Am, so I withdrew. There will be a room opening at the Sleep Inn in Cave City as well.I hope to see ya'll next year.Hurley
Sorry to hear that. Some lucky soul will appreciate it though. Have a nice trip abroad.
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I've left my M3K stock for long enough. I placed an order with MOA and can't wait to get it 3 gun ready. Thanks for everyones contributions to this thread. I will probably end up starting at the thread beginning again and reading everything again before all the parts get here.
MOA is top notch. I have nothing but praise for the MOA parts on my M3000.
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If you need a matchsaver it's already too late.
Agreed. Not a fan.
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I appreciate you both sharing your videos. I've never shot a major 3GN match. It looks like fun.
Tom, that is awesome news about the KickEzz pad for the Steoger. That is a super nice job you did finishing it to your gun.
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The KickEzz is grind to fit. I went with the KickEzz Magnum pad with no regrets due to it being a little thicker(1/4" I think). I have removed a total of almost 1.5" from the buttstock. LOP with the Magnum KickEzz is ~13.75".
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Ryan,
How much of a difference for felt recoil from changing the recoil pad to kick ezz?
It's the only negative I have found so far with this gun, meaning it has more recoil.
I found the stock recoil pad VERY hard. The Kickeez pad reminds me of the pad on my VersaMax. It is a nice improvement, but I can't really give details on the difference without shooting one with KickEzz and one with the stock pad side by side.
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Sounds like you had a nice time Tom. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Here are the photos that I promised from several weeks ago. The photo shows both pieces that I removed from the stock. As mentioned before, you have to drill the holes deeper once you cut past about 1/2".
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Hey Tom, have you found any reason not to shorten the plastic piece behind the recoil spring?Lot-by-lot deal on the 1145 estates. Some will run. If you get malfs, they will generally be FTE (hangs up in the ej port) or it will eject but abandon the next round on the carrier. Not enough recoil for the bolt to move far enough to the rear to engage the lifter dog. I got them running most of the time by removing the plastic spacer behind the recoil spring in the fore end, but it still won't run 100% on the light batches
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It's really hard to get that charging handle out!
Anyone else think the shell stop is maybe a little stiff? It's more difficult to get shells into than my previous shotguns.
The stock bolt handle is tough to remove. I used players.
As far as the shell stop goes, I think the Stoeger has a fantastic one. I like the "hinged" design much better than my Vmax.
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I used a 10" Dewalt miter saw set at 90 deg. It worked great. The hard part is grinding the stock pad to go up inside the stock. I have switched to the Kickeez pad and not only is it easier to work with and easier on the shoulder, but it also doesn't have to fit up inside the stock. You will have to drill an extra hole in the kickeez pad though which is pretty easy when you drill it when it's frozen.What has everyone been using to cut the buttstock down and how much can you take off safely (I would like to take off about 2")? Thinking maybe a band saw ???
You will also have to drill the holes deeper in the buttstock. You shouldn't have any trouble cutting 1.5".
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Update: I previously shared that I had a several FTE's at Task Force Dagger. When I mentioned adding a 13oz weight, you guys suggested that the weight was the issue. Well, you were correct. I removed the weight and added the KickEzz magnum recoil pad and the gun ran 100% at a match yesterday with the exact same ammo that I used at TFD. I had to cut down the buttstock a little more when I added the KickEzz pad to give me a ~13 3/4" LOP. I'm loving this gun and MOA parts.
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That for the explanation about the spring ends. That makes sense and bending both ends would mean that you won't have to worry about which end goes in first when you disassemble/reassemble.
Welcome.
Considerations of lightening a Glock 24 slide
in General Gunsmithing
Posted · Edited by Ryan N
bigcraig - nice looking 24. I appreciate the suggestion. I figure that I'm going to at least shoot one more match with it before making any permanent changes.
Religious Shooter - I feel that the 34/35 platform are really optimal in reciprocating mass. Ideally, I'd love to shoot someones lightened G24 before I do anything, but I don't know anyone in my area with one.
I weighted the G24 slide and the G34 slide today. These were weighed as a complete slide minus the barrel and guide rod (reciprocating mass).
Reciprocating mass of a stock G24 is 16.9 oz.
Reciprocating mass of a stock G34(don't have a G35) is 13.2 oz.
This is a 3.7 oz difference in slide weight. This seems like a significant difference in reciprocating weight.