Ryan N
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Posts posted by Ryan N
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I have a 16" Hbar mid length Rock River AR that I have been using for a few years for 3 gun and rifle matches. I installed a Yankee Hill rifle forearm and Yankee Hill flip sights a few years ago. This set up has been trouble free ever since I loc-tighted the forearm jam nut and tube to the barrel nut. My front sight is mounted on the rail.
I am really enjoying shooting iron sights and I am considering turning the rifle into a dedicated iron sight gun. I like the HK type ears on the front sight like this one http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=38858/avs%7CManufacturer_1=TROY%20INDUSTRIES,%20INCxzzx/Product/AR_15_M16_FIXED_FRONT_BATTLESIGHT I have also considered mounting a std A2 front sight in front of the tube, but the diameter there is a undersized at .740". I am also considernig a more rigid rear sight.
Do you think that having the front sight mounted on the rail is as durable mounting it on the barrel?
Thanks for your suggestions.
to answer your question, IMHO no. I think a primary iron sight should be barrel mounted, rigid, and paired with a rigid rear sight. There just has to be some movement that you cannot control between the barrel and the handguard, which will move your POA away from your POI. Plus you will get more sight radius by moving the front to just behind the comp.
jj
Thank you sir.
I have found the JP sight that Lead Head mentioned, but I can't find the Armalite one. The clamp on JP would be the easiest, but I have the ablity and means to install the std A2 and pin it to the barrel(I am a machinst). This seems even more durable and would also be cheaper.
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There are some pretty rigid rails out there, but I would think they have to flex, at least a little. If you get into a tight position and put any torque or it your point of impact would have to change. It looks like you have enough room for a clamp on JP or armalite A2 base. the JP will clamp down to 0.720. The armalite will as well, with a little work.
I have a friend that offered to open up a forged A2 front sight base and pin it out at the end of my barrel. That would really be solid, bu I have not taken him up on it yet.
Thanks Brian. That makes since.
BTW, I would take up your friend on his offer.
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I have a 16" Hbar mid length Rock River AR that I have been using for a few years for 3 gun and rifle matches. I installed a Yankee Hill rifle forearm and Yankee Hill flip sights a few years ago. This set up has been trouble free ever since I loc-tighted the forearm jam nut and tube to the barrel nut. My front sight is mounted on the rail.
I am really enjoying shooting iron sights and I am considering turning the rifle into a dedicated iron sight gun. I like the HK type ears on the front sight like this one http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=38858/avs%7CManufacturer_1=TROY%20INDUSTRIES,%20INCxzzx/Product/AR_15_M16_FIXED_FRONT_BATTLESIGHT I have also considered mounting a std A2 front sight in front of the tube, but the diameter there is a undersized at .740". I am also considernig a more rigid rear sight.
Do you think that having the front sight mounted on the rail is as durable mounting it on the barrel?
Thanks for your suggestions.
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This is great stuff. I have had the same concerns as you guys. I have a CMMG kit and it runs great with Federal bulk. I really don't use the 22lr that much, but it is a useful tool. I have shot one steel match with the 22kit and it is a heck of a lot of fun. I really like the idea of using my actual 3 gun rifle in the steel match(22lr only). Sure, a dedicated 22lr rifle can be made up, but it would be costly give it the same "feel" as my 3 gun rifle. I think I will continue using my 22lr kit in moderation.
However, if I used a 22lr AR a bunch, I might spring for a dedicated 22lr AR.
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Thank everyone for you imput.I have made a decision. I am getting the Springfield RO. The fit,and finnish is just to nice to pass on.I also read somewhere that they make a certain amount in Brazil,and some in the USA. Not sure if thats true or not,but this one is made in the U.S. I will probably get the other ones over time now that I have gotten a new job. Funny how life is. Have lots of time to shoot,but not enough money to shoot,but a couple times a month. Now I will have the money,and not enough time to shoot.
Will put some pics of it up when Im done with it.I have plans for it. 
The RO is a very nice pistol. I can't blame you a bit.
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I've never tried Techwear shirts and I'm sure they are of great quality.
But I've ordered my shooting jersey from G2Gemini and don't regret it.
The jersey is of excellent quality, design and performance, very light, breathable and moisture vicking.
It really keeps you cool in hot days.
I've ordered ready made design for STI with additional logos. Also, good thing about G2Gemini is that they don't need written proof from each of your sponsors with permission to wear they logos, just tick the box in order form.
Design approval took only a week and in three weeks the jersey was shipped.
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Really nice looking shirts TruSight.
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A group of us went in and bought shirts fron Techwear and were less than thilled with thier customer service. We had them do custom logos and the shirts look great and are holding up well too. But. we will likely use someone else next time.
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I like the Chips, but I have had the follower fly out of the mag after hitting the ground during a reload. This has happend several times with differnt Chip mags(all 8 round power mags). My favorite mags for 45 are Wilson, 9mm is Tripps. Chip mags are great for the money(especially when they are on sale at Midway).
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I bought a 14# Wolff and it feels heavier than my stock Spartan 45 spring. So, I have just keep using my stock spring. It has worked well with my 170pf load.
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I went from shooting SSP for years to shooting CDP this year. Like you, I just wanted to learn a different platform. I bought a Spartan 45 and have no regrets. I just recently purchased a Spartan 9. I do suggest getting a Dawson front sight. The Spartan comes with a FO sight, but the dot is not mounted at the top of the sight. I actually blacked mine out with a Sharpie for a while.
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Thanks so much for the replys everyon this is good stuff.
+1. Giving me some great ideas too.
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I am wanting to replace the front sight on my Spartan with a serrated iron sight. Anyone have any input about this? I was looking at the Heinie because it has a .300" dovetail. Brownells shows that the Warren has a .500" dovetail. It appears that my front sight is a .300" dovetail.
Here the link to the Heinie:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=27160/Product/SEMI_AUTO_RAMPED_DOVETAIL_FRONT_SIGHTS
Thanks,
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Thanks Brian and everyone I was 6 out of 23 and 2 out of 11 in production it was a good break through for me.
Thats fantastic.
There has been some great suggestions. Mine would have been to identify your weeknesses and work on them. Work on the thing that you like the least or the things that frustrate you the most. For example, if your reloads leave a lot to be desired, practice that at home, but make sure your using a good technique. When you get good at it, it will make shooting a match that much more enjoyable.
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AFTER I had installed another FO rod. I only had 1 miss on the plate rack and dropped my time by 6 seconds
I bet this this had more to do with your eyes being used to looking for and seeing the FO. However, stated in several previous posts, what works for one may not work for others.
I am one of the guys that had used FO for several years. This year, I bought a 1911 and began shooting CDP with it using iron sights. Now I plan on going irons on all my pistols.
I'm 39 with uncorrected 20/20 vision. However, I am almost to the point of needing reading glasses up close.
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Thanks for everyones help. My smith said that the 67 is in great shape and that it is a no-brainer to purchase it. I am buying the 67 for when I decide to try my hand at SSR.
Awesome, Ryan. That gun is too good to pass up. I look forward to reloading against you soon.
I'm sure you do. Will be like reloading against a one legged turtle. But don't you dare make fun of me, you know what that will do.
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Thanks for everyones help. My smith said that the 67 is in great shape and that it is a no-brainer to purchase it. I am buying the 67 for when I decide to try my hand at SSR.
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The model 66 no dash and the 66-1 had cylinders where the chambers were counter bored so that the rim of the case is flush with the back of the cylinder. If you follow this link, the 5th thread down will have a picture of both the recessed and non-recessed cylinders.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-hand-ejectors-1896-1961/130651-recessed-non-recessed-cylinders.html
Now I see. Thanks a bunch.
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Thanks guys. Thats a big help.
To my way of thinking, I wanted a version which did not have the recessed cylinder, since I did not want a round not dropping into the counter bore properly, thereby slowing down my already timed with an egg timer, reload.What is the recessed cylinder?
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I switched from shooting a Glock to a 1911 this year and didn't really have any trouble adapting. The 1911 felt heavy and very weird in my hand at first. But like someone else has stated, I have learned to leave my Glock alone and focus on the 1911. My biggest learning curve was hitting the slide release during reloads. With the Glock, I used my strong hand thumb, with the 1911, I use my weekhand thumb. Also, I also tried the arched MSH(borrowed from Bhm friend) and didn't see any benefit.
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I am interested in getting a 66 for IDPA. This will mainly be for SSR, but I want to be able to occationally shoot 357mag. What are the desired "dash numbers" for the 66? I am pretty new to revolvers and don't really know all of the terms(yoke retention system, floating hand, etc). Heres the info I have come accross:
66 (1970): Stamping of each model.
66-1 (1977): Changed the gas ring from the yoke to the cylinder.
66-2 (1982): Eliminated pinned and recessed, slightly lengthened cylinder.
66-3 (1986): New yoke retention system/radius stud package/hammer nose bushing/floating hand.
66-4 (1994): Change rear sight leaf, drill and tap frame, introduce Hogue grips, change extractor.
66-5 (1998): Change in frame design: eliminate cylinder stop stud/eliminate serrated tangs/change to MIM hammer with floating firing pin/change internal lockwork.
66-6 (2002): Introduced internal lock.
66-7 (?): Two piece barrel and internal lock,
Thanks for your input.
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Thanks to everyone for your responses and for your suggestions on gear. I will take a close look at the gun using the info provided above. I will also have another fellow revolver guru take a look at it too.
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I have shot SSP for 10 years and several months ago I jumped in and bought a 1911. I am enjoying it very much shooting CDP with it. It has made me realize that I have been missing out by not shooting other guns. So, I am already considering a shooting a wheelgun next year.
A friend is selling his Model 67. It is in pretty good shape with a silky smooth trigger. This gun has been shot a BUNCH though. He has offered me a package deal for $350 that includes a Ready Tac holster, (3) comp II loaders and (2) twist type loaders. I think it is a very good deal. But, I would really rather have a 686 or a 625(I already reload 45acp).
Is there any drawbacks to the 67 for IDPA? Is this too good of a deal to pass up or just a decent deal?
Thanks
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Shaking off a bad stage can be tough. One of the greatest things I learned from Brian was to shoot in the moment. I had one of these moments just yesterday. I was shooting the Masters IDPA Championship in Alabama. The second stage I shot was sort of a shoot house / maze. I forgot about one target and ran right by it. I received 10 points down, a procedural and a failure to neutralize. Thats 13 seconds on one target, ouch. I just knew giving away 13 seconds in SSP EX was too much to overcome. I decided to just move on and shoot. Hell, I had driven 3-1/2 hours for a match I might as well have fun. With no pressure I actually shot better than normal. When they posted the scores and I was in 1st I almost laughed. My goal is to learn to shoot free like that all the time.
+1. I can relate to that. I have learned that it ain't over till its over. Never give up. Last year at the Masters in AL, I had a malfunction(bluged round) on stage 12 that took nearly 15 seconds for me to clear. I was shooting great and that stage really cost me. But I just kept shooting the rest of the match to my full potential. I ended up 2nd place SSP EX and only two seconds behind the 1st place SSP EX.
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I'm switching from 230s to 200s for my single stack load. I've been using Clays with 230 with no problems, and can make it work for the 200s with no problem, but I'm having to load well past published maximums (4.6-4.7 gr) to ake major
I run 320 in my Limited (.40) load, and I note that the published data for N320 includes velocities that make major.
But before I spend a bunch of time working up a 320 load for my .45, how do the two powders compare in loads of similar PF? Should I just stick with what works, or would I gain some advantage in switching to 320?
If it makes any difference, I'm running Precision Moly and Bootheel Bullets lead.
Thanks,
BB
What OAL are you loading to? If you are loading them a little long, then it could be why your having to use more powder.
Will put some pics of it up when Im done with it.I have plans for it. 
Iron sight AR thoughts
in Rifle - Technical
Posted
What gas block did you use?