Ryan N
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Posts posted by Ryan N
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I cut my M3000 stock 1" with a miter saw and still used the same screw holes to re-attach the stock recoil pad. I did have to drill the holes deeper with a 5/32" drill. I also had to recess the holes about 3/16" to allow for the recoil pad to fit in(see photo below). The toughest part of this whole procedure is to remove the material from the back side of the recoil pad so that it goes up inside the stock. And, as I stated before, shaping the Stoeger pad was tougher than any other pad I have worked on.
FYI, freezing rubber makes it a lot easier to work on. You can actually drill holes in it if needed.
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Jesse, here is a photo of the weight you were asking about. Its just a piece of 3/4" or 5/8" SS with a 8x1mm hole tapped in one end and a slot for a screw driver in the other end. Like I said before, it brings the weight of the SG to right under 8lbs. Being in the buttstock, it still swings the same as it does without the weight. I haven't shot it yet with the weight.
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Thanks Tom. I am an oddball right hander that normally loads strong hand from AP 4x4's. I only recently began "playing" with weakhand L2. For me, a modest amount off the bottom of the receiver sides has worked for me. Having the step toward the front of the loading port doesn't bother, but I haven't tried L2/4 enough to really know if I need to modify it further. I do like to "funnel" the throat of the mag tube. This is only my second attempt at loading port work, so I am still learning what really needs attention.
A big thanks to folks that have shared their work and proceedures.
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Thanks. I drilled and tapped the original bolt release 6-32. I milled the slight radius off of the head. I also had to shorten the screw for it to work. Beyond that, it works great.
I cut the stock 1"(I'm 5'7"). The piece I made to go in the buttstock is nothing more than a piece of SS round stock that I tapped 8x1mm so it will screw right on top of the nut that attaches that buttstock. Stoeger makes something similar called a recoil reducer.
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Thanks to all for clarification on un-slinging and other weapons rules.
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I finally got my gun all back together. Here is what I did:
- shorten the buttstock 1"
- opened up loading port (milled forward .06", raised .10", beveled 30deg and blended)
- MOA nut with +5 MXT
- Norcic bolt release
I'm really happy with how this thing loads now.
I also plan to test a 12oz weight that I made that screws into the buttstock and see if it makes a difference in recoil. With this weight, it weighs exactly what my VM Tactical weighs (7lb, 15oz).
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Bad news about the lifter, but at least now we know.
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Jesse, the nut I got from openclassterror just screwed on my unmodified M3000 that the Nova nut wouldn't work on.
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I'm really excited about this match. The stages are looking great.
When a rifle is "slung", does that mean no mag inserted?
Like Shooter 155 has mentioned, I am also curious about unslinging a long gun with a "loaded and holstered pistol". I am also not crazy about the idea of going prone with a hot gun.
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I got my MOA adaptor nut from openclassterror today(just ordered on Sat). WOW, what a finely crafted piece. It screwed right on my M3000. I highly recommend this to anyone that has the Nova-nut no-go syndrome. $30 (shipped) well spent. In fact, just buy this nut and you won't have to worry about it fitting your gun. This nut is made for the Stoeger and it will fit the M3000. The Nova nut is made for the Nova and sometimes fits the M3000.
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I was originally surprised at the cost of this match last year. But it is not uncommon for a match of this magnitude that spans over 3 days to cost $300. Just so you know, the Task Force Dagger Foundation helps US Special Ops soldiers and thier families.
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I will throw the extension in my range bag for you.
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I won't be at the Arab 3-gun match this month. I will be at the USPSA this coming weekend though.
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In ATL it was jamming all the time, Sunday it would do it on the last 3 or 4 in there so hopefully that's it when I get the spring in and back from Scottie I'm gonna put that +1 I got from you in there and how far should I cut the spring I've heard 10-12" from the barrel, also I believe I'm gonna get a +2 cap now thinning about that green one since I can get it cheaper do you think you could have that one anodized for me too or would it have to be a larger order to do that again? Thanks Ryan
Don't consider that barrel length when figuring what length to cut the spring. Cut the spring 12-14" longer that the entire length of your mag tube.
Also, no problem with getting your +2 anodized. In fact I can just swap you for mine +$5.
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I and to answer the what was it doing guesting it was jamming on the side toward the top (all that has been smoothed out too) like maybe the spring wasn't pushing it far enough in the carrier, I had some in ATL that wouldn't make it fully in the chamber off the carrier
I bet it was happening on the last shell or two when the mag spring had the least amount of tension. The mag spring has to have enough tension to launch the shell hard enough to overcome the shell release springs(double spring behind the shell release). I found this out the hard way too when trying to use a weaker mag spring.
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I too am having problems with mine either from the lifter of the cut mag tube spring (factory) I got a Nordic spring coming but the weather we've had in Alabama has screwed up shipping times, if it don't work I'm gonna try and get the new one from Remington or the TTI one that fits both the M2 and VMax
I kind of suspected that you would have problems after Scottie cut your stock VM mag spring. A longer spring will likely fix your issue. What was it doing?
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My Nova nut is exactly what you are explaining. The ID of the Nova is larger than the Stoeger nut. I think we have a pitch/thread depth issue.Cool thanks. Would still like to know the measurements of the thread pitch and outside thread diameter too though if possible. The issue may just be one of tolerance. Perhaps nuts that fit EVERY nova only fit SOME Stoegers due to allowable size. I know the ID of my Nordic Nova nut thread was actually .013 LARGER than the ID of the nut that came on the Stoeger. Yet it still seized up, and recutting the threads fixed that. The unthreaded tip portion never touched on mine. Starting to wonder if the Nordic nuts aren't all the same. I am going to order another Nordic nut on Monday, and see if that one fits my shotgun without modding. Maybe we are chasing the wrong chicken here........
Bad part is that if it's the Nova nuts that are the problem, then that means the Turks are holding tighter tolerances than Nordic(USA).
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Jesse, have you compared measurements of the major and minor diameter on those threads?
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I am absolutely loving the hinged shell catch. It is a dream to load..... well it will be after I open up the loading port. It is also much easier to manually release shells (unload) than my VM.
I think I am going to really like the narrow vent rib. It seems easier to track than the wider ones on my Remy's. The top of the rib is also flat and not slanted like it is on my VM.
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Here is some pics from our install of Taran Tactical's parts. The oversized safety and bolt release were easy installs as stated in Patrick's article. Taran's lifter took some fitting but functions and feels great. Oversized bolt handle had to be turned down just a bit, but doesn't require the scallop that is cut out on the factory handle. We will be posting install videos for all but the bolt handle within the week or so. Last thing to do is open up the loading port and run it hard at the match here in 2 weeks. Will keep everybody updated.
sorry made me do it in 2 post
That safety is tiny! And mine is really hard to turn off/on too. Did you guys massage that any?
I noticed the tiny safely too. I worked mine back in forth for a bit and it smoothed out a little. It could still stand to be a
little lighter.
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1324XXX should be No.
Ryan, glad to see you got your new gun. You planning on opening up the loading port yourself?
Yes sir. I hope to dive into it next week. I may work on the mag tube throat this weekend. But I hope to do the sides of the port next week at work on a milling machine.
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Mine lifter isn't perfect either(but almost)
. However, it works like a champ and my thumb really appreciates me. -
1349XXX - No
Anyone starting to notice a pattern here...... Me neither.
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When I welded up my lifter, I didn't bend anything. I ground and polished a radius on the topside of the end of the lifter where is contacts the shell. Mine is ground pretty thin that that area. Bending accomplishes the same thing. Note how the new VM 3-gun lifter is bent at the end.
Also, don't forget to smooth out and polish the top side of the lifter. Your finger doesn't contact there, but the shell does.
. However, it works like a champ and my thumb really appreciates me.
Versa Max 3 Gun Edition
in Shotgun - Technical
Posted
See post 199. It could be months before these are available.