1911Prof

Is the best method to simply get small quantities of both size bullets and check accuracy? I hate to ask silly questions but is there any problem shooting .358 bullets out of a 9mm gun?

I have been reading a l little about the barrel of a 929 and there are people who suggest that a 357 bullet provides better accuracy than a 9mm bullet. Is this a real issue?

If you just want to look at a variety of slide lightening cuts, you should check out GANS webpage http://www.gansguns.com/lightening.html

OK, I'm really new at this so any input helps. Is the tension of the hand effected by the rebound spring/main spring tension? My S&W seems to time up OK when there is no drag on the cylinder or when there are dummy rounds in the chambers, but I noticed that when I reduced the spring tension and allow my thumb to drag on the cylinder (or ejector rod) the hammer will drop just prior to the cylinder stop locking up (in very slow DA). If I put the original springs back, the timing issues seem diminished. It also appears that sometimes (not all the time) when the trigger is pulled back slowly and just enough to get the cylinder stop down, the cylinder will not sing but rotate silently

what size punch do you need to remove the sear? it seems smaller than 1/16

My 929

OK, I hesitate to respond to this forum because I am a complete noob to revolvers, and I don't feel qualified to provide valuable insight, but perhaps in this case it provides a different viewpoint. I bought a GP100 a while back and REALLY loved shooting revolvers after shooting 1911 (and 2011) style guns for years. After shooting 1911 type guns, I was not afraid of taking guns apart and did some MINOR adjustments to the action on the GP100 (replaced springs and polished a few surfaces) and the action seemed really buttery smooth and surprisingly crisp (I had a friend who was more experienced confirm this because I had very little reference). The gun is a joy to shoot (my kids prefer it to any of my other guns including my open gun). Based on this experience I decided to start shooting revolver division, and after doing a little reading thought that the S&W 929 was the right platform for me. So I managed to find one and shelled out the MSRP, but what the hell, its a Smith and Wesson and had to be better than the Ruger.... it wasn't even close, the trigger was gritty and really heavy by comparison (DA was >11 lbs). This was a real disappointment to me as the gun that cost twice as much did not seem to have the same quality. But here is the bottom line, for me, the lack of a finished project has been a real good thing, it has forced me to really learn more about the action of a Smith and Wesson. And although it may not be rocket science.... there is a steep learning curve for the uninitiated and it has forced me up the hill. We all shoot for a number of reasons, but if I am honest, I have begrudgingly enjoyed the process and if I had got a gun that was good to go out of the box, I might have missed learning about the action. Don't get me wrong, I have just scratched the surface, but at least I now know more about what I don 't know. I am still convinced that this is a really great platform for me, whether it is the be all end all platform I am not qualified to discuss (but I doubt there is such a thing). I have now dropped an APEX hammer in and slicked up some of the surfaces and the trigger is pretty good (but I have very little to compare it to). I am still adjusting the spring combinations (main spring tension and rebound spring) and when I finally get my back-ordered federal primers I will be able to zero in on the final product. I guess in the final analysis, although I am a little tweaked by the comparative quality, after shooting open for years, I am used to having to screw around a little bit on a platform that is solid, and this seems to be a pretty good gun design with good performance potential.

If only I could get Federal primers... I have had them on back order for months.

+1 APW. They did flawless work.

Nice.... but where is Jerry's signature on the side plate

can you safely remove material from the part of the grip next to the trigger guard so you can get a higher grip sort of like undercutting a 1911 grip?

I did put in the Apex firing pin as well,I have the trigger weight down to about 6.5 lbs and it has no problems with federal primers. Now i have to get used to iron sights again, I've been shooting open exclusively for so long, this is going to be a real challenge.

Thanks for the input (and moral support) I did take a small file to it and very slowly took the length of the sear down and it works like a charm.

Thanks

Yes, that is the surface I mean, there is not enough space for the trigger dog to squeeze between the hammer and sear when it trys to reset. Like I said, I was hoping for drop in, I will contact Apex and see what they think

I need some help, I am also new to revolvers and have a little problem with my Apex hammer that I just received. I was hoping to drop in but it is not quite working out that way. It appears that the sear is a little too long and there is not enough space between the sear and the hammer to let the trigger reset (see picture). My question is this something that I should be taking care of by stoning the edge of the sear to permit more space for the trigger, or should I contact Apex or a gunsmith. I am not sure if the leading edge of the sear is a critical surface or not

I'm new to reloading for revolvers, can you use long OAL for 9mm? like out to 1.20 or so?

Thanks,

Shooters connection lists 625 and 686. So I should order the 625?

Can anyone tell me which DAA Racemaster insert block I should get for a S&W 929?

Where in Iowa are you located?

I have used it in my 9mm major load but it is a compressed load so chrono your rounds and build slowly

Is the Cheely Setback mount further back on the gun compared to the Quinn III?

I own a Dillon SDB which has worked flawlessly for years. There was a short pause once when worn out parts were replaced by Dillons no bs warrenty. I would like to point out the fairly large number of threads describing various problems with the 1050 and 650 (especially the primer sustems), but there really are relatively few discussing problems with the SDB. It is the most dependable reloader I own.

This sounds really promising