Lawdawg112

If you practice near your computer, you could use the timer on Matt burkett's dry fire drill site to get by until you get one. You can set par times on it and the voice keeps repeating the start command. I like to hang some reduced hardcover targets, set the par time around 9 seconds or so and at the beep draw and fire at three targets and then reload do it again and again until your out of mags. I work with four training mags. Find a start time and then start working it down.

Were shooting this one next week and I have been trying to do some practice. Just wondering if anyone has tried some different positions with how you set your gun in the box. I've found that keeping it flush with the edge of the box makes it kind of akward to pick up, but If I set it in at an angle the way my hand holds it, it seems to be more natural to pick it up. I've tried BE's grab method (grabbing with the shooting finger and thumb) around the front of the trigger guard and the back of the grip, but I only seem to get the correct grip if I also put my support hand under the box and then slide the gun out so my support hand gets on the back side right away. Just trying to look at some of the little things to make this one go good.

Personally, I think your G24 is the best Glock meal ticket for Limited and L-10. If you want to do production as well, pick up a G34, You probably wont notice much difference as far as barrel length.

Kind of ironic, but I was due for my glock armorer recert, so I asked the instructor about it last week. He said that the .40's are really hard on the guns pins and recoil springs. (I only shoot factory WWB and AE through mine). He also said that shooting with a non glock flashlight is harder on them too. Mine is a 3 pin glock (2003). The instructor said most of the broken pins are from them not being correctly seated. He said to use a rear corner of the glock armorer tool as a guide to properly seat the locking block pin and the trigger pin. Both times, it's broken the G22 continued to shoot just fine, the right side of the pin just falls out since it's not under spring tension.

I know a couple shooters on here have been to the advanced glock armorer class. With that said I have a question on a G22. Stock G22 that I carry every day, had it since 2003 and I put around 2-4k rounds through it a year. Twice now I have noticed that my barbell pin broke and the only half that is left in the gun is the half that is held in place by the spring tension of the slide stop spring. I usually shoot 165's and 180's through it and I do some dry fire with this gun but not an extreme amnount. I do fire around 800 rounds through it a year with a TLR-1 flashlight attached to the front as well. Any ideas on what is causing the pin to break? Thanks Lawdawg

I tried one and noticed no difference. Once it was in I couldn't get it out either.

I tried one twice in my G22 and they don't do anything for recoil. Honestly I think it caused more malfunctions than anything. The last one cracked bad on each side as well after a couple hundred rounds

I was at a MN cabelas this last weekend and they had a new 17 for $719. I thought that was pretty high.

Love my ghost rocket in my 34. Tried stock, lone wolf and Glockworx as well. Have a couple thousand through it with not a single problem. Shooting factory WWB and Am Eagle 147's

+2, Shoot a couple FMJ's at the end of a match and it will take a lot of the lead right out and makes cleaning a lot easier.

I transitioned about a month ago from using empty mags to using "blue mags" I think the blue mags are two heavy. It seems like they simulate a .40 mag with 15 rounds or a 9mm mag with 17 in it rather than 10 which is a difference. I going to try dummy rounds compared to the blue mags and see what feels more real.