Paradox

Update... 1.) Scharch sent a reply stating they do not offer the case prep as a stand alone service... 2.) The Lee Decapping die works fine for removing crimped primers (in 5.56 anyway). 3.) The Lyman small primer pocket reamer sucks!! I tried it by hand and chucked in a DeWalt drill... 4.) Trimming cases by hand sucks... (Lathe type rotary crank) 5.) Chamfer / Deburring cases by hand sucks... 6.) The $1500 dollar Dillon 1050 + Dillon/Giraud Case Trimmer is looking more like an investment towards my sanity. I TOLD you I was stubborn Wonder if there is anyway I could *talk* (beg) Scharch into processing the brass for me. I think the thread title should be - "How to spend $1,800.00 for 10K of Surplus Brass..." On a positive note, the lot of LC brass I have is remarkably consistent in case weight. I am getting + or - .3gr on them after prep - looks like they will get used for shooting small furry creatures at long distances. Yup... go ahead... you can say it... "I told you so!!!"

Hey now! I misrepresent that advice Just read this thread and realized who everyone is... Had a great time shooting with squad 8, hope to do it again sometime!

Try a CR Speed belt, get one 2" larger than your waist. CR Speed magazine holders are 'universal', but I personally have never tried them with Ruger's mags. The Blade-Tech Drop Offset Holster should work nicely for you. If you decide to go to another platform, the only thing you will have to replace is the holster -HTH

At risk of sounding like a broken record, if you like the Titegroup load - load more I think you will find N320 and Titegroup to feel very similar, however almost everyone can get TG locally. I believe the comparison was referenced as "Tastes great!, "Less Filling" in another thread. I found the most improvement when I finally picked a load and practiced with it. Many thousands of rounds later, I'm not as picky about my ammo - all it has to do is go bang when I pull the trigger and maintain a good degree of accuracy. I found the following powders suitable for .40 Major (In no particular order): Titegroup N320 WST Universal Clays N330 WSF If you are concerned about smoke, I think you will find TG worse than the others in the list. (This is with lead or poly/moly coated bullets). Also, in my experience weather conditions have an influence on the amount of smoke any load produces.

LMAO! I was waiting for him to 'slip' with the muzzle under his chin.... /BadHumorModeOff

My first .40 Major loads were with Master Blaster's coated bullets and WST. If I ran out of N320, I would use it in a pinch. My only complaint with the powder is that I couldn't get the ES down compared to Titegroup or N320. Accuracy didn't seem to suffer, and as long as I ignored this issue I was a happy camper. Velocity does change with temperature... I have shot about 10K round of that load, and I didn't have an issue. OAL was 1.180", WSR primers, and I think 4.8-5.0gr of powder. -HTH

Thanks Lynn, I also happened to get an email today explaining this I will have to stop by and say "Hi!". I think I have actually 'seen / met' you at NTPS...? My first USPSA match was there in April of 2003

Just curious, but how many entries were received this year?

Awesome, looking forward to the match! Hope to finally meet some people off the forums... One question, last time I looked - I was in Squad 12 (pretty sure there was more), but the match schedule now only shows 11. Is there any correlation to the original squadding? Thanks! Justin

I am glad this came up, as I added a new drill to my live fire practice this last weekend. Normally, I practice draws on reduced size targets (at a 'simulated' 15 yards). I found that after 50 rounds of live fire draws on 8" plates at 25yds, the drill made a HUGE difference in my draw. They felt smoother, cleaner, and I was fine tuning my index to an extent I have never been able to achieve in dry-fire- just like JD45 mentioned. On a personal achievement note, I was able to get some 1.05 - 1.10 draws at that distance with some regularity (towards the end). Now if I can only get that performance on demand, cold...

I received a response from Storm Lake this morning! That has got to be a first in this industry... Presented with the question of - How does the Storm Lake barrel compare to the factory Glock Barrel for support in the 6 o'clock position? The response: "We say that our chamber is about 95% supported, the feed ramp goes about .030" into the chamber..." /OffTopic Dude... that was pretty funny! Hehe Mongo like paint...

LMAO... At least someone else posted it before me... On topic, I think others have posted that with a KKM barrel they didn't get 'guppied' brass. I am curious about the Storm Lake .40 barrel myself... I just sent an email to Storm Lake asking this very question. Stay tuned for reply.

Ran this with an STI Edge, G17, Beretta Elite II... Pretty consistant in the .13 - .14 sec range. I didn't notice a whole lot of difference between the platforms if I prepped the trigger on the Glock and Beretta. Otherwise, it added a few hundredths. Edited to note: The "trick" is to fire at the beginning of the beep I would think as long as you hear the shot before the beep ends, you are good to go...?

Dan, Seeing how no one has responded to your question... I don't know of anyone that specifically advertises trigger jobs for that platform, but I am sure it could be 'worked'. Ruger's automatics haven't caught on in competitive circles, which is the most likely cause for this situation. There are many competent gunsmiths that frequent the forums, you might have to call around and ask. Sorry I don't have a specific answer for you...

Awesome! Here is another dot drill posted by Matt Burkett : http://www.doublealpha.biz/tip_burkett.htm (I couldn't find the original link off Matt's site after his recent 'makeover') It is amazing some of the things you can see and react to once you are accustomed to 'working' out your eyes. If you go to a baseball game, try sitting behind home plate and look for the stitches on the ball. After a while, almost any real time action can turn into "bullet time" a la The Matrix... Another thing I do to pass time on roadtrips is transitioning between signs while traveling. (For obvious reasons I don't recommend doing this while you are driving). My favorite eye speed / coordination "exercise" is playing 1st person shooter video games. Battlefield 2, Doom 3, Counter Strike, etc... Ever play Wall-Ball or Dodgeball as a kid? The possibilities are endless On the lighting comment, I have found that when my pupils dilate objects are harder to bring into focus. Good Luck! After a few weeks training, it will seem like you are waiting on the front sight

Doh! I wish I had seen this last week - I ordered 5 from midwayusa.com for 19.99 + Shipping!

Here are some tricks I learned from playing other sports: Focus Drill Hold a pen or your thumb at arms length. Find another object about 15 - 20 feet away, such as a light switch screw. When doing this drill it is best to find a specific spot to focus on. For example, if you are using your thumb I like to clearly see my finger prints - see the slot in the screw head. Practice speeding up transitions at arms length, then during the exercise move your finger/pen closer to your face. Eye Tracking Drill Again, no special equipment required. Using your best 'The Fonz' impersonation hold your thumb up at arms length. Move your thumb in figure 8 motion. As your tracking ability improves, increase the speed and vary the size of the figure 8. Also, as you progress constantly vary the distance between your nose and thumb. I have some additional drills, but most require more equipment and/or a partner. These can be done in the office for those that can't dryfire at work I do these after a dry fire session, or when the A.D.D. kicks in haha Hope this helps, Justin

I am considering a training class with Bang Inc (Jerry & Kay Mickulek). If anyone has taken a class from them, would you share opinions and a decription of what you liked and/or disliked? If you have taken classes from other instructors, what do you feel are the technical strengths gained from their instruction? I am a largely self-taught shooter - learning from Brian's book / forum, MB's DVD's, SA's Dry Fire, analyzing higher classed shooters, and peer reviewed video critque I feel that I have a good base in the fundamentals, ability to call my shots, and shooting technique. I am most interested in improving my learning curve on movement in field courses, breaking down stages, mental game, etc... IOW - Using Angus's term, I feel that I have reached a point where my biggest weaknesses are the *everything else* part of this sport. It seems that one answer is more match experience, but I would like to shorten that learning curve as much as possible. Thanks for reading, and I appreciate any responses...

I checked the website, they list a plain black post in .125" and .110". I found out I didn't like FO sights by accident. The FO rod on my Edge came off in the middle of a stage, and of course I didn't have a replacement piece. I could use the dawson, but I know it will remain blacked out... So I would rather have a plain one and not worry about it. Thanks for the suggestion. I also checked Brownells, and it seems everthing is ~.125"

I have searched for this and haven't found an acceptable answer... I recently purchased a new 5" alloy framed Springfield for use in Single Stack. The pistol came with tritium Novak sights. I will be changing out the rear with a Heinie #365 Low-Mount (supposedly fits Novak cut). I can't seem to find an acceptable front sight in .090". I looked on Dawson's site, but was only able to find a fiber FS. Any ideas or suggestions for a plain black .090" FS without having one milled? Thanks! Justin

I almost posted this in Match Screw-Ups, but for anyone that has done this or wondered about it... here you go. Right Click Save As ThatHurt.wmv The event was filmed during a practice session by fellow board member Unleashed earlier in the summer. Unfortunately, the funniest event(s) that day were not caught on tape... (I was having a bad day). Without ruining the punchline, I am sure the 'prop revenge' is obvious! Enjoy! Edited to note that the video is rated PG-13, due to one mention of a certain curse word...

+1 I shoot that exact load in my STI Edge. 185gr Precision at 1.180" over 4.3gr of N320. I do not have chrono data for 'winter' conditions in East Texas... (Seldom gets below freezing). I think you will like the combination! I get no noticeable smoke when I am shooting, it's very clean, and the sights track perfectly for me. When I first switched to this load, I intentionally ran over 3k rounds through my gun without cleaning it - ZERO malfunctions. This is my chrono data for this bullet / powder combination: Notes: 185gr Precision (Actual AVG Weight = 188gr), 1.180" OAL, Winchester Cases, WSR Primers, PF calculated with actual bullet weight, screens 15' from Muzzle, 10 Shot Averages 82 Degrees F; %65 Humidity 4.1gr N320 - Min=867fps / Max=893fps / AVG=878.9fps / PF=165.2 4.2gr N320 - Min=893fps / Max=916fps / AVG=902.1fps / PF=169.6 101 Degrees F; %35 Humidity 4.3gr N320 - Min=901fps / Max=927fps / AVG=913.6fps / PF=171.8 (169PF @ 185gr) 4.4gr N320 - Min=912fps / Max=945fps / AVG=930.9fps / PF=175.0 I think XRe's recommended starting load is a good one. Hope this helps, Justin Edited to add - PF using 185gr bullet; I chose 4.3 for a cushion with either weight

I have a friend that has a 1050, but it is setup for .38 super not super comp Anyway, I sent an email to Scharch, but haven't received a reply yet. Hopefully they charge a resonable fee. Perhaps when I get some free time I will work up something to automate the process... Thanks Again!

Thanks for the replies! Unfortunately, I am referring to 10k worth of brass.... I can already feel the carpal tunnel setting in LoL I thought about using the deburring tools, but I have been told deburring has caused problems for some people. I believe they were either cutting too much off the pocket or it was the wrong angle? Perhaps a bit of both...? Any how, it was supposedly causing excessive primer flattening (compared to the same loads with swaged pockets). As previously stated, I have zero experience with this operation. I currently use a hand crank operated lathe/collet type trimmer, as it has sufficed for my relatively small amount of bolt gun reloading. I 'needed' an excuse to splurge for the Giraud trimmer in .223 and .308 One last question - I have the Dillon .223 die set. Are the crimped primers that much harder to remove? (Punch and anvil??) I was wondering if I would be ahead using a Lee Decapping die to prevent abuse on my Dillon's decapping pin? Thanks Again!

I have never processed LC .223 brass, and would like to get some opinions on the 'best' method. I am aware that there are a few companies that will process the brass for a nominal fee, I would rather try it at least once. I will be using a single stage press and a Dillon 550. I believe the 1050 has a station for swaging? Is the Dillon Super Swage the 'best' non-progessive tool for the job? I plan on: 1) Tumble / Clean Brass 2) Size / Deprime 3) Swage 4) Trim / Chamfer Any suggestions? After doing this for several thousand cases, I just might send it off for processing... but I can be hard headed at times Thanks, Justin