High Lord Gomer

My brother-in-law is an LEO outside of Atlanta and he got to fiddle with one where they're made (Smyrna, I think?). He really liked it. He told me about the serrations on the back of the slide, but I was expecting to see them facing the other way. He also said it will debut at the Shot Show in Orlando this week.

What years did you race pro? Maybe I got to watch you!I have no problem with GMs shoooting for free or for Pros racing for free. MX is the only sporting event that I would ever attend as a spectator, but if I'm at a match, I sure want to watch the GMs to see how it should be done.

I probably shouldn't have copied and pasted that statement from an email I had sent to a friend about my comparative results when reloading with MG bullets vs Winchester bullets. The real point was that MGs are cheaper than those listed on the other site and I have been very pleased with them.

Not sure about theirs, but I recently got several thousand of the Montana Gold 55gr FMJ-BT and have been very pleased with the consistency of them. I had some Winchesters that had variances in their profile which resulted in OALs that were from 2.245 - 2.275. The longer ones were hanging up in my P-Mags. The MGs are cheaper and more consistent (for me).

It was very interesting...thank you.I got to spends some time listening to Rob at the Junior Shooters Camp this past fall. He seems like a great guy. Heck, I'd pay money to see him do standup comedy, he's funny!

I, too, use Rubbermain containers:

I also try to run out when I plan to switch, but failing that, I remove the spring from the primer bar underneath, remove the old primer catch container, remove both bolts from underneath (while holding the tube), then carefully dump them out the top and back into my primer pickup tray to load them back into a primer pickup tube.

Thanks! Now I'm having to rethink my entire dryfire routine to include this skill.

I have recently started reloading .223 on my 550 and have had a couple primers fall out. Is it possible this is due to me having adjusted the Dillon swager too "tight"? I now pay more attention to how much pressure it takes to seat the primer. If it seems too easy, I take that case and try to blow out the primer (catching it with a rag) with 100 psi of compressed air. I was getting 2 or 3 per hundred that would come out before I eased off on the swager adjustment. I'm still getting one every couple of hundred, but they seem to be seating better. BTW, I'm using range brass that I've shot as well as what I've picked up. All mixed headstamps and no telling if/how many times some may have been reloaded. I've been running all of the brass through the swager.

I have had decent results with: Precision Delta Montana Gold Berry's Ranier LaserCast (Lead) I did have problems with the plated bullets (Berry's and Ranier) but it was all my own doing when I was crimping too much and occasionally cuting through the plating.

Is it possible that your grip changes during recoil and it takes that to get you where you expect to/should be? Just to rule that out, you could reload, shoot one, take your weak hand off and move your right hand as you would during a reload, regrip, and shoot again.

Some pictures (and a link to a video that no longer exists). http://www.brianenos.com/pages/dillonfaqs.html#550case

There's a great chart already on this site to help you make sure you have the write shell plate, locator pins, and powder funnel... http://www.brianenos.com/pages/dillon/cal.conv.chart.html

I would imagine the cost to manufacture is the same, if not more, for the artificially limited mags. If you can carry 15+1, why would you opt to only carry 10+1? I can see practicing for the game with 10 rounders, but I always carry a full mag (of the highest capacity possible).

It's the *ultimate* chain lube!

Once you take the 2 bolts out of the bottom, lift off the upper assembly, turn it over (make sure there are no primers in it....ask me why! ), and look in the channel next to where the bolts go in. Mine had protrusions into the channel that drug on the primer bar. I used a dremel to smooth those back to level and it works much better, now. I still have to take it apart and clean it every 500-1000 rounds or it either doesn't go all the way out to grab a primer or hangs back and doesn't return forward properly.

I asked my tax guy about putting my company name on my motorcycles, jerseys, enclosed trailer, etc so that I could write off some of my expenses as advertising. He told me that my company could only claim as much for advertising with me as some other company would be willing to pay me to wear their name and advertise for them. For me, that translated to zero dollars. I even had an offer from the local Honda shop to give me a free Kawasaki as long as I promised NOT to ride a Honda at the local races.

Doesn't........everyone?

I started with CCI primers 2 years ago on a 550. The upper lip of them seemed to curve outward more than WSP and that lip would too frequently catch in the edge of the primer pocket and turn the primer sideways before it was shoved into the pocket. I also had problem with them hanging on the depriming pin when reloading cases that I had previously loaded with CCI. I won't touch them, now.

Knowing you I knew that would be the case, but I figured it wasn't my place to say. That, and all of the other stuff you do, is working very well! From one of the beginners that you "hooked"....thank you!

That was very well written. Here's another: http://lchico.5u.com/whats_new.html Edit: Probably want to check with either/both of the original authors before copying/reposting.

The rods didn't pull out of the collet, the pins pulled out of the ends of the rods. Miranda...would "Red" loctite do it? Isn't there one even higher?

The first was PMC and the second was something else, I don't remember at the moment. I will try polishing up the next one I put in. I've had decent results with Loctite on threaded parts, but this is a press fit. To loctite these, I'd have to first remove the pin, then replace it with loctite.I have found a solution, though! I unscewed the Lee die from the toolhead, opened the garage door, flung it as far as I could, and then installed this one:

I carry either a full-size M&P40 or a Keltec 32. I shoot the M&P in our IDPA-like matches, but for a different reason... The last match where I shot BUG was mostly 8 round stages. My 10 year old was shooting SSP and I was having to do reloads on every stage. He beat me and I still hear about it all too frequently. Now I also shoot SSP so if/when he does beat me again (and he has come very close), it will be straight up.

Are you using the standard .223 die or the carbide .223 die and what case gauge are you using? Oops, turns out I'm using a Lee Die. Dillon case gauge, though.